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NooB problem... i hope

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Old 03-05-2011, 11:13 AM
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NooB problem... i hope

i just bought this truck

1993 f150 flare side 351w, auto, with push button t-case. i believe the trans is a e4od. Its got ~180k on it but runs like a champ

the problem is i keep getting a check engine light but only when im driving. i can run the engine in park for an hour and the light wont come on. i tried to scan the ecu put since i turned off the truck to borrow a scanner from O'reilly i had to turn the truck off. when i started it again, the CEL was off and no codes stored in the computer!

it takes a minuet or two for the CEL to turn on when im driving it.

what is going on? my thinking is transmission related, but it doesn't seem to be shifting wrong

i did recently do a tune up, though i dont see that as being the problem...
spark plugs, wires, cap, rotter, oil & filter, air filter,


i read some where that it might be the EGR valve is not getting enough vacuum?

anyone know where i can get a cheap obd1 ford scanner?
 
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:45 AM
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Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test here is a link on how to get codes without a code reader.
However you should be able to get an Equus 3145 for around $30.00 which makes life a little easier.
 
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jborushko
i just bought this truck

1993 f150 flare side 351w, auto, with push button t-case. i believe the trans is a aod-e. Its got ~180k on it but runs like a champ

the problem is i keep getting a check engine light but only when im driving. i can run the engine in park for an hour and the light wont come on. i tried to scan the ecu put since i turned off the truck to borrow a scanner from O'reilly i had to turn the truck off. when i started it again, the CEL was off and no codes stored in the computer!

anyone know where i can get a cheap obd1 ford scanner?
Something not right about that. If the computer isn't storing the codes then you have a bad connection or a bad computer. Whether the check engine light is on or not, if it came on once there should be a code stored. Sometimes even if you don't get a check engine light there can be codes stored. I would double check and clean all the battery and related connections.

As Lazy K said, the Equus are about $30-$35 each. I bought mine from O'Reilly.
 
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Old 03-05-2011, 01:12 PM
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was at autozone grabbing oil change stuffs for the old lady's jeep, and bought $30 scanner.

can i drive with the scanner plugged in?

we'll see what that produces...
 
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Old 03-05-2011, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jborushko
was at autozone grabbing oil change stuffs for the old lady's jeep, and bought $30 scanner.

can i drive with the scanner plugged in?
They make an extension cord, of sorts, to use with those scanners. It allows you to put the scanner in the cab with you. I bet Auto zone or no one else has one locally for you to get.
 
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jborushko
was at autozone grabbing oil change stuffs for the old lady's jeep, and bought $30 scanner.

can i drive with the scanner plugged in?

we'll see what that produces...
Read the owners manual- if the code reader is not equipped to download live data then there's no point in driving the truck with it plugged in. And it's easy to make your own extension cord using #12 or #14 wire with male and female spade connectors. Here's a pic of the one I made for mine- yours may vary in number of wires required.

 
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Old 03-05-2011, 05:14 PM
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BRILLIANT!

I just didn't know if the scanner would prob something in the computer while driving that would cause an issue on the road. im used to either carb'ed or OBD2 stuff

i'll make up a harness tonight if i can find enough connectors


i'll post what the codes are if/when i get any

thanks
 
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Old 03-05-2011, 09:10 PM
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Your scanner will only pull live data if it's equipped to do so. If you bought the Equus brand then it's not set up for it.

But like I said, if you got a CEL and then didn't find anything stored, there's a deeper issue at work. But I suppose we should see if you get anything with the reader or not first.
 
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:03 PM
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well apparently it wasn't just during drive. but when i was maintaining about 2000 rpm like i would in drive. i tried running the engine at that RPM in neutral and the CEL came back.

anyway these are the codes i was able to pull and what my book says they mean

311 - thermactor air system problem- no operation during engine run self test
332 - insufficient EGR flow detected

538 - insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test - this may have been my fault for not going WOT soon enough - i was reading at the same time so im not too worried about this one yet


311... so since im going to delete the smog pump any way, i dont suppose i should worry about this as much

332... I'm planing on the EGR delete anyway so... not to worried about it either

I passed emissions in-spite of these problems


still any other input would be appreciated.


im planing on the MAF conversion when i get the money for the stand alone trans controller im thinking B&M
 
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:57 PM
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You'll probably want to get ahold of Conanski if you're planning on the emissions delete. There's ways to eliminate the system without future codes being triggered.

As for the 538- I usually get this code too and I suspect it's because I don't hold the pedal to the floor long enough. Not that you need to hold it for longer than a second, but I think doing more than a quick slam to the floor is needed.
 
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Old 03-10-2011, 12:12 PM
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ordered the stuff from ford fuel injection... waiting till it comes it then to deleting!
 
  #12  
Old 07-11-2011, 02:01 AM
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update on my problem,

the shifting problem wound up being, a bad throttle position sensor.

after changing out the IAC, tearing off the egr and air pump, and replacing the cat with a new style cat.

so now im running good with a new throttle position sensor. my check engine light still comes on but its due to the egr not being there, the plug from fordfuelinjection for the egr plug did not work for stopping the check engine light.


but problem fixed
 
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