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Well, my truck suddenly died last week while driving on the freeway and would not re-start. The local shop determined that it was the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) and wanted $1,800 to repair the truck. Although, since I have a good mechanical background I'm going to jump in and tackle the job myself.
For the past few days I've been searching and reading all the info I can on the pump replacement, although have not been able to find a parts list and their numbers for this job. Even the online part suppliers don't list many of the need gaskets and seals on their sites. Below are the parts and numbers I have so far, if I'm missing something please let me know...I would really, really appreciate it. I'm trying to get the truck back together this weekend. The truck is a 2003 F250 with the 6.0. Thank you in advance!
A lot of the gaskets will come with what you have there already. Like the HPOP cover gasket SHOULD come with the new HPOP if you get it from Ford (mind you, I say should. I've been forcefully violated by Ford before on what parts are SUPPOSED to come as a kit...and don't.) Turbo mount kit has the oil inlet gasket in the kit. Only thing I can think of that's kind of big is make sure you check the IPR for damage when you remove it. It has a metal screen on the end that will be damaged if metal from the pump failure made it's way through the IPR. If you see damage to the screen, replace it. Also, check the ICP sensor connector while you're in there. It sucks to do when the turbo is in, and now would be the best time to check for a connector failing (they have problems) and possibly even replace the IPC (kind of a nit picky thing, I know, but I just hate doing it with the truck all together. And since ICP sensors never go bad.... ) Other than that, I'm not seeing anything missing, as long as the intake gasket kit comes with all you're EGR cooler to y-pipe gaskets and the large black o-ring for the intake to front cover. Yeah, don't forget to put that in. That sucks. Or so I've heard.
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1996 F-150 Northwoods 4X4 5.8 E4OD, 31" BFG AT/KO
1983 Mercury Capri, 5.0, SROD, not much...yet I've got all the parts, now I just have to put them on....
***NEW*** 1992 Ford Mustang LX,
"I'm a technician, not a mechanic. Mechanics just change parts 'till they run out of money or it starts working right again..."
Sandrat, thanks for the quick reply. After looking more into the intake gasket kit it does look like it comes with the all the needed EGR seals and the big oring as well. The dealer replaced the IPC under warranty a few years back so that is already taken care of and I will definitely check the IPR for damage once I get the turbo off.
One thing I can't find is the oil cooler gasket part number. Shouldn't that gasket be replaced as well since I will be replacing the HPOP filter screen... that's where it's located correct???? I've read so many posts over the past few days everything is beginning to run together.
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2011 F350 6.7 Lariat, CC, FX4, 3.31 Gears & 18" Wheels.
2003 F250 6.0 CC Auto 4x4 (Sold)
You mean the oval shaped screen under the oil cooler that fits into the block, right? I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea, might even consider replacing the cooler as long as you're going to the time and effort to remove it. Not too many problems with them on 03's, but it there's metal in there, it might not be a bad idea. If you get a new cooler, it will come with the gasket. You can buy the whole cooler assembly that comes with the top cover, or you can just get the element part that comes with all the seals and gaskets as well as instructions for replacement. Can't remember the base number off the top of my head, but you should be able to find it either through some digging online or just ask a friendly local dealer!
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1996 F-150 Northwoods 4X4 5.8 E4OD, 31" BFG AT/KO
1983 Mercury Capri, 5.0, SROD, not much...yet I've got all the parts, now I just have to put them on....
***NEW*** 1992 Ford Mustang LX,
"I'm a technician, not a mechanic. Mechanics just change parts 'till they run out of money or it starts working right again..."
You mean the oval shaped screen under the oil cooler that fits into the block, right? I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea, might even consider replacing the cooler as long as you're going to the time and effort to remove it. Not too many problems with them on 03's, but it there's metal in there, it might not be a bad idea. If you get a new cooler, it will come with the gasket. You can buy the whole cooler assembly that comes with the top cover, or you can just get the element part that comes with all the seals and gaskets as well as instructions for replacement. Can't remember the base number off the top of my head, but you should be able to find it either through some digging online or just ask a friendly local dealer!
Yep that's the one, I was going to replace it due to all the reports of how brittle the original design was. Does the gasket at the bottom of the oil cooler need to be replaced or is it reusable and should the other ones in the cooler be replaced as well? I would love to replace the entire cooler while I'm in there, although it not in the budget right now and I need to get the truck back and running ASAP since its a daily driver for me.
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2011 F350 6.7 Lariat, CC, FX4, 3.31 Gears & 18" Wheels.
2003 F250 6.0 CC Auto 4x4 (Sold)
It's reccommended by ford to replace it, buuuttt.... I think you could get away with reusing it, just be careful when removing the cooler not to tear it. And you're gonna want to have a drain pan right up in the engine compartment with you when you pull the cooler out, it WILL leave a mess!
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1996 F-150 Northwoods 4X4 5.8 E4OD, 31" BFG AT/KO
1983 Mercury Capri, 5.0, SROD, not much...yet I've got all the parts, now I just have to put them on....
***NEW*** 1992 Ford Mustang LX,
"I'm a technician, not a mechanic. Mechanics just change parts 'till they run out of money or it starts working right again..."
It's reccommended by ford to replace it, buuuttt.... I think you could get away with reusing it, just be careful when removing the cooler not to tear it. And you're gonna want to have a drain pan right up in the engine compartment with you when you pull the cooler out, it WILL leave a mess!
Thanks for the heads up regarding the oil spill mess, I'll be sure to have a drain pain handy. I think I'll just order a new one with the rest of the parts, with my luck if I don't I'll be sure to tear the gasket.
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2011 F350 6.7 Lariat, CC, FX4, 3.31 Gears & 18" Wheels.
2003 F250 6.0 CC Auto 4x4 (Sold)
You mean the oval shaped screen under the oil cooler that fits into the block, right? I suppose it wouldn't be a bad idea, might even consider replacing the cooler as long as you're going to the time and effort to remove it. Not too many problems with them on 03's, but it there's metal in there, it might not be a bad idea. If you get a new cooler, it will come with the gasket. You can buy the whole cooler assembly that comes with the top cover, or you can just get the element part that comes with all the seals and gaskets as well as instructions for replacement. Can't remember the base number off the top of my head, but you should be able to find it either through some digging online or just ask a friendly local dealer!
The part number for the whole oil cooler that includes the top cover and core fully assembled (as well as the screen under the oil cooler) is 3C3Z-6A642-BB.
If you want the oil cooler KIT that includes ALL gaskets and o-rings along with the screen is 3C3Z-6A642-CA.
__________________ http://www.yorkdaleford.com/service.html[/url]
Ford Diesel/Senior/Master Tech
....who works at a dealership that now employs SOME half decent looking female employees since they overhauled most of the administrative staff
....but STILL loves hot women with big boobies
....and STILL hates working on E-Series with 6.0L
And you're gonna want to have a drain pan right up in the engine compartment with you when you pull the cooler out, it WILL leave a mess!
If you remove the high pressure oil pump cover, along with the pump itself first, most of the oil inside the reservoir will drain into the crankcase through the high pressure oil pump inlet, when the pump is removed. Doing this BEFORE removing the oil cooler assembly will prevent the huge spill mess you would make if you were the remove the oil cooler first.
__________________ http://www.yorkdaleford.com/service.html[/url]
Ford Diesel/Senior/Master Tech
....who works at a dealership that now employs SOME half decent looking female employees since they overhauled most of the administrative staff
....but STILL loves hot women with big boobies
....and STILL hates working on E-Series with 6.0L
Furthermore, being an '03 model year, I highly recommend replacing the high pressure oil pump cover (3C3Z-9G805-AA) along with the discharge tube (3C3Z-9T288-AA) if you don't already have the updated cover assembly with the machined channel on the underside. If you click on the link below, you will see photos of both covers and the discharge tube to understand what I'm talking about:
__________________ http://www.yorkdaleford.com/service.html[/url]
Ford Diesel/Senior/Master Tech
....who works at a dealership that now employs SOME half decent looking female employees since they overhauled most of the administrative staff
....but STILL loves hot women with big boobies
....and STILL hates working on E-Series with 6.0L
Furthermore, being an '03 model year, I highly recommend replacing the high pressure oil pump cover (3C3Z-9G805-AA) along with the discharge tube (3C3Z-9T288-AA) if you don't already have the updated cover assembly with the machined channel on the underside. If you click on the link below, you will see photos of both covers and the discharge tube to understand what I'm talking about:
Thanks for the tips on removing the cover and pump first and the pics of the pump cover.
Is it still necessary to replace the cover if the discharge tube shows no signs of rubbing on the pump cover? The last thing I need right now is to have to spend another $500 for the new cover and discharge tube.
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2011 F350 6.7 Lariat, CC, FX4, 3.31 Gears & 18" Wheels.
2003 F250 6.0 CC Auto 4x4 (Sold)
Furthermore, being an '03 model year, I highly recommend replacing the high pressure oil pump cover (3C3Z-9G805-AA) along with the discharge tube (3C3Z-9T288-AA) if you don't already have the updated cover assembly with the machined channel on the underside. If you click on the link below, you will see photos of both covers and the discharge tube to understand what I'm talking about:
Is this discharge tube also called the J-tube? I am replacing my HPOP and need a part number for the "j-tube" and cannot find the actual name or part number?
Is this discharge tube also called the J-tube? I am replacing my HPOP and need a part number for the "j-tube" and cannot find the actual name or part number?
so changing the IPR didnt work????
was it not damaged screen
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Benny
2003 6.0, 4X4 srw, short box, born on 3/28/03 Moog ball joints,DC POWER 190A ALT Duralast Goldtop batterys 10/7/2012,RECON LED SMOKE MIRROR LENS,4 inch turbo back magnaflo exhaust,no kitty, 6 in. lift, BFG 315/75r16, python remote start alarm,pioneer system2 12''subs 1600watt amps ,scangaugeII,coolant filter, blue fuel pres spring, Fresh oil cooler 6/1/11 Final Charge Cat EC-1 rated Silicate Free ELC coolant, Sinister Full egr deleate, ROTELLA T-6 5w-40syn,updatedHPO screen,updated oil filter stand pipe
IPR is actually ok...so I'm going to break down and just do the HPOP...Had a few different people from other places all say that it will more than likely just boil down to the HPOP. So while in there, I want to go ahead a fix a few things that get bad. Figure that will include the J-tube, just not sure what the part number on that is or if that's the turbo drain tube.
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) Other than that, I'm not seeing anything missing, as long as the intake gasket kit comes with all you're EGR cooler to y-pipe gaskets and the large black o-ring for the intake to front cover. Yeah, don't forget to put that in. That sucks. Or so I've heard. 
