its always something with my truck .....today i was driving and my belt started squeeking and burning so i looked at it and my air pump pulley is not turning. i do not have catalytic converters on my truck anymore and i was wondering if there was anyway that i could just free it up so the pulley will spin freely. Thanks

 

If you only have 1 drive belt to the pump, cut it. If you only have the serpentine (ribbed) belt running all, there's ways of avoiding the a.i.r. pump with a shorter belt. You don't include enough info for a clear strategy. Let us know how it goes.

 

i have the serpentine belt going around all the pulleys.

 

what size belt would i need to go about avoiding it in the serpentine????

 

Remove the air pump, and replace the belt with a shorter one... can't tell yo the size since i had other mods. and we don't even know which engine you have. But you can try this: measure the lenght your current belt runs from the pulley before of the thermactor's (air pump) to the thermactor's pulley, that's distance A, then the lenght from the thermactor's pulley to the next pulley after it, that's distance B. Now measure the direct distance between both the pulley before and after the thermactor's pulley, ignoring the thermactor, that will be distance C. now do this calculation: A+B-C=X. Now lets consider you know you Original Belt Size (OBS), then the Bypass Belt Size (BBS) should be the result of this formula: OBS-X=BBS. So that could be a nice starting point for you to find a proper belt size. Of course, changing an original belt size is like trying new shoes, you have to wear them in order to see if they will really work out for you.

 

Post up a pic of your engine showing the front accessories so we can see what engine and which drive configuration we're talking about here.

-Rod

 

the truck is a 1991 with a 302 5.0

 

Does it have the high or low mount tensioner? Is the tensioner up high, between the AC compressor and the alternator, or is it lower, between the alternator and the thermactor (smog) pump?

-Rod

 

It is high

 

You'll have to measure or search the forum here for the belt length for that configuration. If you had the low mount tensioner, you'd need a 94" belt.

-Rod

 

used a belt off an 05 wrangler 4.0 for mine to bypass air pump. think its about 81" or so. hope that helps.
btw mines a 92 5.0

 

Hey i have a 1994 Ford F150 XLT 2 wheel drive. V8 5.0l. the other day the belt started to squeak then turned into a loud screeching noise with the smelt of the belt burning.I checked the belt and the belt is practically new, no wear and tear. I replaced the Idler Pulley and the Tensioner Pulley, thinking that would of fixed it but was wrong. Then noticed that the smog pump pulley wasn't really turning/spinning. Now my question is, if the issue is the smog pump pulley not turning, what can the possiblities be it being just that or if there's other problems thats not allowing it to turning. And how much am i looking at in spending to get the right parts to fix this issuse.

 

You really brought back one from the other side... Now, lately I've been checking smog pumps (thermactors) and the current pricing is between $120-160. If money is no issue and your entire emissions system is working, it's worth it to just replace it. Then you'll have the chance to either return a core or check yours, it could be something as simple as a bearing.