The truck would run fine with less than 3/4 throttle and under 3000 RPM and when cold. When trying to accelerate hard the engine would miss or bog. I had engine scanned but, no code came up. I had fuel pressure checked and was a little low at 26 psi at idle and 30 psi at 3000 rpm. I did fuel pressure regulator first because it's easier and cheaper than fuel pump. I was also, told it cold be catalytic converter. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
It's sounding like a fuel pump. Have you got a fuel pressure reading at WOT with a load?
To check the cat hook a vacuum gauge up somewhere on the intake manifold. Start the engine and let it warm up to normal temp. With the vehicle parked record the vacuum at idle. Then quickly press the throttle to wide open and then quickly snap it shut. Do this three times and record the vacuum at each wipe open moment. Do it a fourth time and record this vacuum reading. If the forth reading is more then one in-Hg lower than the reading at idle then this could indicate a restricted exhaust (like a cat but could be a muffler). At this point I would pull the cat and inspect it.
After changing fuel pressure regulator, I did a test drive. For the first few miles it drove good; no hesitation, engine revved to 4500 RPM in 1st & 2nd gear. Also, while driving in 3rd gear, I pressed the accelerator to the floor. The transmission downshifted and the engine revved up to 4000 RPM. I decide try it WOT one more time, and thats when it started to do the original problem; cutting out above 3000 RPM and anything under that seems to run fine.
When the truck is running fine the fuel pressure was 30 - 32 psi at idle and 38 - 40 psi with partial throttle and WOT. After a few miles the fuel pressure drops as you accelerate to about 15 - 20 psi.
I'd adding to this old thread for those who happen upon it and are experiencing fuel pressure regulator problems. I couldn't find this information elsewhere.
My V-10 2000 Excursion from time to time cranked a long time before starting. Other times it would start fine. A pressure test found the fuel pressure immediately coming up to 30 lbs, but dropping to zero within five seconds of turning off the key.
I had recently changed the plugs and found no wet cylinders, and the car ran perfectly so I ruled out the injectors. I could not crimp a fuel return line to check the regulator, so I opted to change this $30 part before assuming the worst and dropping the tank. Don't even think of using a $12 Chinese Advance Auto Parts regulator or you are wasting your time. I bought a Standard from Rock for $30, made in USA. I would have bought Motorcraft, but it was $60 and looked different from the original.
The fuel injector pressure regulator is a beast to access. It sits behind the throttle body behind the manifold on the back of the fuel rails. But with the right tools, you can change the thing in about an hour.
You will need a new "adapter to manifold" gasket. In a pinch you can probably use silicone. The gasket is seldom stocked locally.
After removing the plastic intake hose and the plastic cable shield, remove both throttle cables. They have "wings" that clip on the inside of the flange. Squeeze them and pop the sheaths out. The cruse control cable's plastic end pops up and off the post. Do anything else and it will break. Guess how I know.
Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the cable bracket.
Remove four 8mm bolts holding the throttle body adapter to the intake manifold. Remove two electrical connectors from the throttle body and the big hose that pops off the back.
You should now be able to twist the throttle body and adapter out of the way and see the fuel pressure regulator.
The regulator is held into it's socket with an INTERNAL spring clip. It's one of those clips that have two small holes for a special spring clip pliers. I used a short snap ring pliers with straight tips. A mirror helps you see the holes, which on mine, were facing the front of the engine.
You insert the tool, squeeze the holes together and lift out the snap ring while laying on top of the engine on a moving blanket.
Don't lose the snap ring. Guard it with your other hand.
Use a vice grip to wiggle the pressure regulator up and out. Twist and rock it while gently pulling.
I cleaned out the well with an oily paper rag. Using a mirror, I saw lots of dirt that I didn't want it carried into the injectors. I reasoned that blowing it out with air might blow it into the fuel line.
Lubricate the O-rings on the new regulator with engine oil and pop it into the well with a little twist. Replace the snap ring being very careful not the drop it or send it springing on top of the bell housing where it wants to go.
That's it. My problem was solved without dropping the tank.
Best of luck to you.
Eddie in New York
2000 Excursion V-10 with 240,000 miles (2014)
Last edited by Trustee; 08-30-2014 at 11:32 AM.