battery drain
#1
battery drain
Hello,
I hope someone can give me some info.
I have a 2002 E-350 7.3L turbo Diesel with two batteries. One in the engine compartment and one under the frame rail.
I have not had any issue with the batteries/ starting when I plug in the vehicle during cold weather.
Cold starting is another issue.
So, I had a Webasto coolant circulating heater put on it for remote cold starting. Problem. When I run the heater for 45 minutes when it is cold (0 to minus 30), the truck will not start- it cranks once and then the batts die.
The heater is working properly and heating the bloock and not draining the batteries except for the 4amps while operating.
Both batteris load tested good but in a warm shop.
My alternator is good.
The previous owner put a trickle charge on the engine compartment battery because I think he was having trouble with some drain.
I had a parasitic load test performed and there is a 70 miliamp draw. I was told it should only be about 30 or so for my rig.
I have nothing added onto the rig except an automatic idle device and there is an old toggle switch that went to a warning light that is no longer hooked up.
I had the batteries tested at a battery shop. They guy tested the rear battery through the front battery negative lead and got 400 CC amps. He said it was a bad battery. But when I brought it to Ford Quickstop to get a battery, they told me the battery was good. I don't know who to believe now.
In any case I have a very expensive coolant heater that I can't use right now. And I can't bring my rig out and leave it away from plugings.
Any ideas??
Thanks.
I hope someone can give me some info.
I have a 2002 E-350 7.3L turbo Diesel with two batteries. One in the engine compartment and one under the frame rail.
I have not had any issue with the batteries/ starting when I plug in the vehicle during cold weather.
Cold starting is another issue.
So, I had a Webasto coolant circulating heater put on it for remote cold starting. Problem. When I run the heater for 45 minutes when it is cold (0 to minus 30), the truck will not start- it cranks once and then the batts die.
The heater is working properly and heating the bloock and not draining the batteries except for the 4amps while operating.
Both batteris load tested good but in a warm shop.
My alternator is good.
The previous owner put a trickle charge on the engine compartment battery because I think he was having trouble with some drain.
I had a parasitic load test performed and there is a 70 miliamp draw. I was told it should only be about 30 or so for my rig.
I have nothing added onto the rig except an automatic idle device and there is an old toggle switch that went to a warning light that is no longer hooked up.
I had the batteries tested at a battery shop. They guy tested the rear battery through the front battery negative lead and got 400 CC amps. He said it was a bad battery. But when I brought it to Ford Quickstop to get a battery, they told me the battery was good. I don't know who to believe now.
In any case I have a very expensive coolant heater that I can't use right now. And I can't bring my rig out and leave it away from plugings.
Any ideas??
Thanks.
#2
.070 amps is high, but should be ok, especially since it normally works ok unless you use the heater.
I would replace both batteries, especially if they have some age on them. Do not try to replace one battery, replace them both at the same time. I would also set your heater for less run time before you try try to start it.
I would replace both batteries, especially if they have some age on them. Do not try to replace one battery, replace them both at the same time. I would also set your heater for less run time before you try try to start it.
#3
battery drain
Thanks for the reply.
So even if the batts test okay they can still be bad?
I will get new batteries. That is about the only thing I have not yet tried.
Should I try and have the amp draw tracked down to see why it is high?
I have to run the heater for 45 minutes to an hour to warm the truck up enough if it is 30 below. There are lots of other folks that have these heaters in their rigs and they don't seem to have this issue...
Borealak
So even if the batts test okay they can still be bad?
I will get new batteries. That is about the only thing I have not yet tried.
Should I try and have the amp draw tracked down to see why it is high?
I have to run the heater for 45 minutes to an hour to warm the truck up enough if it is 30 below. There are lots of other folks that have these heaters in their rigs and they don't seem to have this issue...
Borealak
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