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Engine idles, but dies when put in gear and giving it gas
Hello fellow 3rd generation owners! I just got a '68 f100 with an FE390 and edelbrock 1411. It was not runnning when I got it, but now it idles. The problem is when I drop it in gear, If I give it any gas at all it dies. I posted my problem in a different forum today that provides more details if anybody's interested:
You nailed it, I can give it gas without killing it and even go WOT when in Park or Neutral. I've never had to check fuel pressure are a car before, so I'll do some research to try and figure that out. If anybody has a link to a good guide for this I'd appreciate it.
As far as checking the float goes, I think I have to tear into the carb to do that on an edelbrock, so I'm saving that part for later.
I can only find one vacuum line. It goes from the intake manifold to the transmission. No vacuum lines go to the carb other than the PCV outlet. No Vacuum inlets are on the distributor. I did spray some carb cleaner on the intake manifold around the vacuum line going to the transmission and didn't hear any change in engine idle. I'm not sure where else to check for a leak.
Definitely sounds like a problem with the accelerator pump. When you move the throttle and look down into the carb, you should see two small streams of fuel squirting down into the blades. This is what helps to richen up the fuel mix when you crack the throttle. If this isn't happenning the motor will do exactly what you're describing.
Well this sounds like the first thing to check! Thanks guys! I'm going to reveal my ignorance and let everybody know I had no idea what an accelerator pump was. I found a pretty sweet video that explained it to me, saving you guys the time.
So it sounds like for an edelbrock, I'm stuck purchasing the rebuild kit for about $55 (around here anyway). I will certainly do the troubleshooting you recommended before spending the dough (check for a squirt when hitting the throttle), hopefully tonight. If anybody knows of any great guides to rebuilding an edelbrock(1411), other than the one available at edelbrock.com; I'd love to be pointed in the right direction.
I'm really enjoying the education I'm getting here. Thanks again! i've got another issue I'm going to post in another thread (looking for the drainholes in the bed of the truck).
There really isn't much of anything but the accel pump in a rebuild for that style of carb. Unlike a Holley, there is only one gasket(for the top) and the accel pump. Not sure what you are getting for $55?(ouch), besides new needle/seat.
Sometimes it isn't that the pump is bad, it's that the small passages inside the carb get cloggged. If you're careful (and lucky) you can pull the carb apart without ripping gaskets. You do have to inspect everything and make sure the rubber and paper parts aren't dried out/brittle/cracked, but possibly the carb just needs to be cleaned inside.
There are a lot of small passageways inside the carb that, even if you do rebuild it will need to be thoroughly cleaned out. If you did put a rebuild kit in it without cleaning it all out it would be entirely possible that the problem doesn't get fixed.
The culprit was indeed the accelerator pump. Or at least that was definitely one of the problems. The rubber gasket was torn; lord knows how that happens, there were even small pieces of it sitting in the adjacent bowl. So I continued to tear down the carb and soaked the parts over night in carb cleaner.
I bought the rebuild kit (edelbrock 1477 ~$45) to fix the 1411 this morning from pepboys ($10 off coupon), rebuilt the carb, and now the truck drives! Any rookies out there, have no fear, the rebuild was extremely easy, just follow the instructions. My advice based on my experience is the following:
Make note of the primary and secondary cluster locations prior to removal. Each cluster was stamped with a unique number, and the odd numbered clusters went to the left, and the even numbered clusters went to the right.
Pay attention to what gaskets go with the primary and secondary clusters. I found during assembly that the secondary gaskets can be installed with the primaries, and vice versa. I took a closer look at what got covered up with each gasket installed in different locations and was able to figure out the correct installation. ( I think, everything seems to be working so far).
Pay attention to how the chokecam position rod is installed prior to disassembly. I found that the rod could be installed in two different positions, either pointing straight up (the wrong way), or 45 degrees (pointing towards me). I consulted images on the internet to determine which way was correct.
Additionally, I found a website that may help a bit, unfortunately for me, I hadn't found it until I was almost done and trying to figure out the choke cam position rod orientation.
The Great news was that I put it all back to getter, dumped a little gas in the bowls, fired her up and she started! The first time!! Put her in gear and she drove, the first time!! It was almost like I knew what I was doing, lol.
Thanks for everyones help and advice!
I've got another question I'm going to post in the carb section of the forums. Is there any reason not to install a fuel cut off switch near the carburetor? My thinking is similar to a lawnmower, you could cut off the fuel supply and let the engine burn the remaining gas in the carb until it dies. My hope is that this would keep the carb clean, especially when leaving it sitting for a month or so. One question I have is, could this damage the fuel pump?
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