I didn't want this to get lost in a different thread as it's a rather nifty way to remove broken off and rusted bolts.

Simply put, heat and wax. Some time ago I was replacing the lower intake gasket on my 5.8 and I had, I think, about 3 bolts break off near flush with the heads. There wasn't enough left of them to even put vice grips on them.

So I tried an easy out/stud extractor- broke it off.
So I tried an easy out with propane heat- didn't work.
So I tried "Freeze off" [can't remember the exact name of it] which was something I found at O'Reilly- didn't work either.

So I told my woes to my father who is an experienced shade tree mechanic. He had read an article that if you heat a broken off/rusted stud and then melt wax over it, the wax will suck down into the threads much like solder and will lubricate them enough to turn.

It took about 3 attempts at heating the first stud and melting wax over it before we finally got it worked loose, but in the end all we needed were a pair of needle nose to extract it.

It had to be worked back and forth several times, but once they got turning they came right out.

Just thought I'd share that with you guys as I see there's a guy having some issues with his water pump bolts. And I'm sure there's plenty of others who will need this advice as well.

 

WD-40, PB Blaster, etc sprayed on the previous day, then re-applied when you actually go to pull the bolt......Also, a nice firm whack with a hammer sometimes relieves the rust tension.....

-Wes

 

I usually try to start 3-5 days in advance on water pumps with pb blaster. then if you break them I respray them 2-4 more times a day for another day or two. After letting them set with the PB for so long they come right out without any problems.

I always remind people to turn the bolt(s) both ways. Rocking tention back and forth (ie: loosening and tightening) always helps to break up the corrosion holding the bolt in place. Water pumps suck period...

OH and don't forget to use antiseeze with new or old bolts when reassembling!

 

I have a question about the pb/wd40 method. I will be needing to remove the exhaust manifold and on a 20+ year old engine they're gonna be a little seized. I do recall lighting wd-40 on fire once, so I'm hesitant to use anything similar on a surface that gets very hot. The wax method is what I'll probably use, but if you use a spray, how long before the fire risk is gone?

 

^^ when all done just rinse it off and no issues.

 

Which kind of wax are you referring to DB?.

 

Well the idea is to soak the bolts for a week or so and in my mind that meant leaving the pickup parked for the week.

 

Candle wax or car wax?

 

Had that issue with my passenger side exhaust manifold. I sprayed PB on the bolts 2x a day for about a week I did drive it after they were sprayed it smoked slightly but no fire issues at all. I didnt do the work myself but the mechanic at my garage told me it was a huge help as he only broke one head off a bolt and was able to remove the manifold and take the broken stud out.

 

Sorry I should have clarified that. We used the wax from a toilet gasket, though I don't see why candle wax would be much different. Car wax I'm not sure about but then I don't know how that compares to the toilet gasket or car wax.

I think it's important to note that WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil, it is a spray lubricant only.

 

Good point on the WD-40.....Still seems to help for me.........Then again, most everything I have ever re-assembled gets a nice coat of bearing grease......Makes re-do's a tad easier......Note-Unless the bolt is gonna be in an area subjected to heat.......

-Wes