I resently purchase a 49F-1 that has rust through on both sides from the metal bed floor attachments. One side is rusted through but intact. The other side is rusted through and is missing from there down. This starts about three inches below the bed side design. The upper 3/4 of the bed is in very good shape as are the complete 4 stakes. I think someone said the sides are 16 guage. I thought about a lap joint with new metal. Are the bottoms of both sides the same/reversed? Any ideas or thoughts on the repair? Thanks,chuck

 

I have similar issues, but the damage is limited to about the bottom 2-3 inches along the full length of the drivers side, and only a small rust-through spot in front of the rear fender just above the running boards on the pass. side. I am confident I can fix the passenger side, but am anxious to hear some ideas about the long repair because it includes part of the molded wheel well.

The metal floor and crossmembers didn't fare as well, so I am considering replacing the entire bed as a unit if I can't find the confidence to tackle it.

I'll be following this thread with a watchful eye. Good luck!

 

My truck's PO had stacked old plywood on the wood floor, then welded am 1/8" plate across that. Needless to say, the plywood sucked up water and held it. So the sides were trashed all the way around. The bed was in bad shape but I didn't want to spring for a new on, so I had a local sheet metal shop bend up 20 feet of angle, I think it's 1.5" x 4" (short dimension is to match original). I was going to weld it in, but ultimately just bolted it in. I had a special piece made for the front that had a lap joint rolled in, and spot-welded that in (that piece carries the most load).

It has worked great, most people don't even notice it, and it cost me $40. If you are going for anything except a cheap, quick fix, just buy a brand new bed; they are really not that expensive (but won't have raised panels).

 

Initially I thought about cutting around the top edge of the rust, treat it and make new verticle pieces. I could bend the bottom edge ok, I just don't know how important the bottom wheel well design is to tire spacing. I could either weld or bolt a "C" channel around the inside for the bed wood. The new old lap joint would be about the same place as the "C" channel. I open for any suggestions. chuck

Thanks, Ross.

 

Not sure I follow you, I think you mean is it important to keep the raised panel for tire clearance? '50-on got by without them, but it would look funny to not have the raised panel just at the bottom. Did your truck have a steel floor on top of the wood (from the factory)? A picture would help, but you'd have to link it, they still haven't fixed the Upload thing.

 

I see your point on the looks at the bottom. Do the sides have same pattern only in reverse on both sides below the wood area? I can't tell if it had a metal bed floor or not. Pictures didn't turn out. It is snowing this evening. I'll try tomorrow. Your pictures look to have about the same amount of rust as mine. I thought I would use a "C" channel inside to hold the wood edges and use only a wood floor, maybe 2 x 6s with more cross supports. Just looking for ideas. Thanks, Ross.
chuck