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  #16  
Old 02-22-2011, 12:20 PM
sowaxeman sowaxeman is offline
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So how do I determine if my truck is Cali or 49 state?
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  #17  
Old 02-22-2011, 12:23 PM
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If the fuel pump has a large round disk on it. Looks like the starship Enterprise.
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by sowaxeman View Post
So how do I determine if my truck is Cali or 49 state?
Here are some pics of the cali fuel pump and the sticker.
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  #19  
Old 02-22-2011, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic View Post
The way I understand it these pumps are all made by the same manufacturer regardless of whose name is on it. They are made by Carter and therefore, the best price wins as far as I am concerned. Can someone who knows more about these correct me if I am mistaken?
That's how I understand it as well. I chose the Bosch one at AAP because it had a lifetime warranty and was the same price(after the coupon) as the O'Reilly one with a 90 day warranty.
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  #20  
Old 02-22-2011, 09:11 PM
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do it your self it is really easy all you need is a knife 1/4 drive socket al 6 inch extention, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, 15mm wrench, 1 1/4inch wrench and about 2 hours to do it, just drain the fuel bowl using the water drain, remove the t intake from the turbo to heads, then disconnect the electrical connector on the left side of the fuel bowl looking at the engine, then cut the upper line that runs between the bowl and pump, undo the clamp on the lower single hose in the valley between pump and bowl, remove the 2 return lines to the bowl from the heads using the 15mm wrench and cut or slide the return line from the bowl to the hard line, its the short 2 inch hose that is vertical, remove the water drain vavle hose, remove the 2 13mm bolts on the back side of the bowl, pull the bowl out but dont lift it out all the way make shure you disconnect the ipr connector then the bowl will come all the way out, removed the 1 1/4 inch banjo bolt on the back of the pump, cut or remove supply line to pump and then unbolt pump and use a ladies foot pry bar or a 90 degee pry bar and wiggle the pump as it comes out, just put the new pump in and assemble it i do them in about and hour to a hour and a half but i have done probably 10-20 of them really easy not worth the even 400 bucks the other shop quoted you.
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  #21  
Old 02-23-2011, 08:09 AM
sowaxeman sowaxeman is offline
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This is why I love internet forums when it comes to my cars (and now my truck). Thanks for all the help guys!

I bought that fuel pump/hose/o-ring kit for $140 with free shipping. Now I will just pick a nice weekend when I am bored and have at it.

Anyone ever take their hood off for this job? I was thinking of doing that and working from a short step stool from the sides (I'm 6'1") rather than crawling on the engine.
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  #22  
Old 02-23-2011, 08:15 AM
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I don't really think you would need to take the hood off... you should have plenty of room with a tall step stool. or just use some house scaffolding.. that's what i do for lengthy projects
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  #23  
Old 02-23-2011, 10:19 AM
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  #24  
Old 02-23-2011, 10:38 AM
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SWEEEEEEEEET!
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  #25  
Old 02-23-2011, 04:56 PM
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SOWAXEMAN, glad to see you are goin to do it youreself!! When you go to remove the pump only loosen the 2 pump retaining bolts 1/8 to 1/4 inch, then rotate the crank shaft by hand until you see the pump begin to rise up. at that point you can proceed with remove ing the bolts and the pump. This will prevent the pump tappet from falling into the engine...normally the tappet stays in the pump but this is good insurance.
Good luck
Jason
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  #26  
Old 02-23-2011, 06:57 PM
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SWEEEEEEEEET!
Or you can fab a table like mine with a fraction of that price and works awesome and you have place for tools, rags, etc.
look here:
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  #27  
Old 02-23-2011, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J'S97F-350 View Post
SOWAXEMAN, glad to see you are goin to do it youreself!! When you go to remove the pump only loosen the 2 pump retaining bolts 1/8 to 1/4 inch, then rotate the crank shaft by hand until you see the pump begin to rise up. at that point you can proceed with remove ing the bolts and the pump. This will prevent the pump tappet from falling into the engine...normally the tappet stays in the pump but this is good insurance.
Good luck
Jason
Some times you dont see when the pump begin to rise up, if so, you have this other tip (IIRC its from Redman):

Look at the pulley for the camshaft. There is a mark to indicate the position of the counterweight. Use a 1/2" dr ratchet w a 13/16" socket and turn the engine by hand until that mark is at the 11 o’clock position. Then it is safe to pull the pump out. fficeffice" />>>
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  #28  
Old 02-23-2011, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP View Post
Some times you dont see when the pump begin to rise up, if so, you have this other tip (IIRC its from Redman):

Look at the pulley for the camshaft. There is a mark to indicate the position of the counterweight. Use a 1/2" dr ratchet w a 13/16" socket and turn the engine by hand until that mark is at the 11 o’clock position. Then it is safe to pull the pump out. fficeffice" />>>
Yep , line the dampener mark with the indicator on the CPS ...
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  #29  
Old 02-23-2011, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP View Post
Some times you dont see when the pump begin to rise up, if so, you have this other tip (IIRC its from Redman):

Look at the pulley for the camshaft. There is a mark to indicate the position of the counterweight. Use a 1/2" dr ratchet w a 13/16" socket and turn the engine by hand until that mark is at the 11 o’clock position. Then it is safe to pull the pump out. fficeffice" />>>
Excellent tip. Tried to rep you but I'm in jail.
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  #30  
Old 02-23-2011, 11:15 PM
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I did the pump on my 1997 F-250 HD 7.3 PSD , its the the same set-up as yours . It took about an hour to do, but I'm real Good . Find another auto repair shop to go the work. Alldata shows 6.3 Hours to R&R the Pump. O'Reilly's has the pump - Airtex 61067 , for $99.99 . Airtex is the OEM. For the 7.3 PSD. Good Luck
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:15 PM
 
 
 
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