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Old 02-21-2011, 05:39 PM
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Body Lift Added (pics)

well its on 3" body lift. who says they wont work on a diesel. Still need to raise the rear bumper but i am making custom front and rear bumpers so i wasnt that worried about it today.

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  #2  
Old 02-21-2011, 05:54 PM
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Looks great!!

Was there anything out of the ordinary you had to deal with because its a diesel?
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Old 02-21-2011, 06:17 PM
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no not really had to drill out the front body bushings under the cab because the bolts were bigger than stock bolts (would have been the same on a gas f250 also). the air intake hose behind the box wasnt long enough had to cut it and put a section of 3" PVC pipe in and reclamp. had to lengthen 4wd shifter but you have to do that that on all of them. so no nothing special. they say they dont work with diesels because of all the stuff attached to the fenders and firewall but no trouble on the old body style like mine. they also say they wont work because of all the plumbing on the intercooler but again no problems i was prepared to reroute but didnt have to. just zip tied lines down to ensure they didnt get into the fan and that was prolly overkill.
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:45 AM
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It's look good Dude! Who says we can't be creative anymore!!!!

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Old 02-22-2011, 10:57 AM
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It's look good Dude! Who says we can't be creative anymore!!!!

Joe
i tell my wife all the time i'm a thinker but she doesnt believe me maybe she should watch me work on a truck lol. still have to do the body work and paint the truck and make and install custom bumpers and its done. hopefully that will all be done by the gtg but it may roll in just like that because i really hate body work.
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  #6  
Old 02-22-2011, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by whack&stack View Post
no not really had to drill out the front body bushings under the cab because the bolts were bigger than stock bolts (would have been the same on a gas f250 also). the air intake hose behind the box wasnt long enough had to cut it and put a section of 3" PVC pipe in and reclamp. had to lengthen 4wd shifter but you have to do that that on all of them. so no nothing special. they say they dont work with diesels because of all the stuff attached to the fenders and firewall but no trouble on the old body style like mine. they also say they wont work because of all the plumbing on the intercooler but again no problems i was prepared to reroute but didnt have to. just zip tied lines down to ensure they didnt get into the fan and that was prolly overkill.

Sounds like you had it all planned out in advance. Nice job and I look forward to the custom bumpers and other progress you make.
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  #7  
Old 02-22-2011, 03:46 PM
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Sounds like you had it all planned out in advance. Nice job and I look forward to the custom bumpers and other progress you make.
lol i may have had it semi planned i never claim to have it completly planned out. i will of course update with pics as i get stuff done.
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:28 PM
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I hope you read the bodylift link in the offroad section and swapped the bolts in the kit out to grade 8s. Never really liked the whole body lift situation. Just doesnt look safe to add a bolt thats 3" longer and has that much more leverage on it. Theres pics somewhere here that shows a regular cab truck like yours that wrecked. Bodylift bolts sheared and the cab went its own way.

Not downing your choice of lift. Heck anything looks better lifted. Its all about the way you do it and the precautions you take.
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Old 03-04-2011, 05:14 AM
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Ya know...I just never saw Cheeto as a safety dude...did you? : )

Joe
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Old 03-04-2011, 04:34 PM
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Joe im all about safety. I mean if things on a lifted turck get rigged up and someone dies then it looks bad on all lifted trucks and laws get harsher. We all know the .gov likes to stereotype because its easier to do. While ill admit there are some people out there that do things so stupid they deserve the adverse effects that they will create. Darwin will prevail there. But i hate to see someone rig things up and take out a mom or bus load of school kids.

Im not in anyway saying his truck is rigged up. Bodylifts are fine as long as they are done properly. Heck some may look at me as overkill even. All the rivits in the crew that were takin out were drilled to 1/2" and replaced with coated grade 8 bolts. Yeah it added alot to the total cost of the truck but its fully worth it in the end. Everything has lock nuts and some things have loc-tite ontop of that. You can never be to careful.
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Old 03-04-2011, 09:30 PM
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i changed the cab bolts to grade 8 and drilled out the bushings to put bigger size bolts in 1/2 inch. the bed i left with grade 5 as its light and just hauls dead deer. i really dont get the whole body lifts are stupid line of thought. i do agree alot of people dont take the time to do them right and they can look jacked up. but if you take the time to pull shifters weld extenstions and raise the bumpers i like em. i have 4 inch susp and 3 inch body and i have about $650 in everything. i personally like the look of the body sitting off the frame and changing starters is a breeze when you can get your hand above the frame lol
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Old 03-14-2011, 08:52 PM
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Truck looks good... keep the pictures coming.
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whack&stack View Post
i changed the cab bolts to grade 8 and drilled out the bushings to put bigger size bolts in 1/2 inch. the bed i left with grade 5 as its light and just hauls dead deer. i really dont get the whole body lifts are stupid line of thought. i do agree alot of people dont take the time to do them right and they can look jacked up. but if you take the time to pull shifters weld extenstions and raise the bumpers i like em. i have 4 inch susp and 3 inch body and i have about $650 in everything. i personally like the look of the body sitting off the frame and changing starters is a breeze when you can get your hand above the frame lol
Good thinking with the grade 8 cab bolts. I was looking at a 2 inch body lift for my 95 f250 (gas). It's the same body style as yours, ext cab and long bed and it flexes quite a bit when I go over angle changes. Everytime I leave my house I have to go up a pretty steep hill and make a tight right hand up another steep grade. As you can probably imagine, it twists the whole truck pretty good. In fact, I can see 4 or 5 inches of one side of the bed in the back window. Does your 3 inch lift cause any more noticeable twist or have you had it on long enough to find out?

There a thread on the 87-96 board where a kid has a 6 inch body lift on his rig. IMO this is way too much and since I don't remember seeing any 6 inch body kits, I'm assuming he stacked two 3 inch spacers. I really hope he's building this rig for off-road only. Yikes.
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:59 PM
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Good thinking with the grade 8 cab bolts. I was looking at a 2 inch body lift for my 95 f250 (gas). It's the same body style as yours, ext cab and long bed and it flexes quite a bit when I go over angle changes. Everytime I leave my house I have to go up a pretty steep hill and make a tight right hand up another steep grade. As you can probably imagine, it twists the whole truck pretty good. In fact, I can see 4 or 5 inches of one side of the bed in the back window. Does your 3 inch lift cause any more noticeable twist or have you had it on long enough to find out?

There a thread on the 87-96 board where a kid has a 6 inch body lift on his rig. IMO this is way too much and since I don't remember seeing any 6 inch body kits, I'm assuming he stacked two 3 inch spacers. I really hope he's building this rig for off-road only. Yikes.
you wont notice anymore twist the twist is in the frame not the body your body is only doing what the frame does. you cant see anymore twist cause the cab is raised also. i havent paid any attention this truck all my other trucks had 6" susp and 3" body on them so i have ran this 3" body lift set up for years and have paid attention to it in the past.

the big body lifts are common on off road rigs i dont even know that that is legal for street use. most of the big body lifts on offroad rigs are custom built. the best way to build them is to use "c" channel and plate the sides so you have 3 solid sides. weld it to the frame drill a hole in the top. and then u can still get a ratchet in to tighten and you dont have to use as long a bolt but you get alot of tire room for very little money. another way to do it (the way i prefer) is to take 3" square tubing 3/16's wall thickness and notch out part of the backside so you can get a boxed in wrench in to hold the nut to tighten and weld a plate to the top so you have a nice flat surface for the body to sit on. weld the tubing to the frame just like using "c" channel. very sturdy, short body bolts
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:01 PM
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Truck looks good... keep the pictures coming.
thanks as soon as i get more done i will post em up
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:01 PM
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