i lucked out! my '98 expedition which i bought in aug 2010 had blown a factory plug. #4 to be exact a week before i bought it. it was repaired by a shop and has ran 6000miles flawlessly since. except a slight rough idle.

well a week ago i noticed a slight knock/exhaust leak sound from the drivers side. i parked the truck and this weekend replaced the 7 remaining sparkplugs. thank god i cought it in time. the 3rd plug back on the pass side was prolly 10-50 miles from blowing itself out. it took 2 finger tight turns of the socket and it came out...the rest were tight.

these were factory plugs on a 5.4 with 70k miles on it. i replaced the remaining plugs with autolite double plats and TQ'd them to spec. she runs even smoother now and no odd noises...so if your in doubt pull your coils and check/change your plugs. it just saved me a $450-500 bill.

 

ill have to check that. my truck was making a few weird noises like that the other day. thanks

 

For those uninterested or uninformed about plug issues on the modular motors Ford has generally done a disservice with claims of long life for plugs. Reading these forums has really opened my eyes about several things I'd never have suspected even though I've been DIY mechanical things for a long long time.

Proper torque, correct anti-seize and Motorcraft plugs seem to be the best preventative steps when replacement is necessary. Seems also removing long time in service plugs can introduce its own potential problems so being careful here too can be very important.

Even though I'm in the market for a new-to-me E350 with V10 which might have the improved heads I'll never let the plugs go over 40K miles without changing them. While this is a chore time and aggravation wise its well worth the trouble it might avoid.

Glad you found this brewing problem and took steps to stop it long before it became a bigger problem.

 

yes and i agree, i'll be changing plugs every 30k miles as thats the way i grew up and it just feels right. i may be throwing money away some would say. but atleast i feel better about it.

yes i'm very glad i found the problem before it blew and cost me alot more money then a set of plugs.

 

I don't think handling something known to be potentially problematic in a preventative manner is wasting money at all. Avoiding the cost of a single blown plug plus the aggravation of down time would far exceed the $25-40 (plugs only) spent to change them at 30K miles.

It would be interesting to hear from someone who changes plugs well before the 100K mile suggestion to see if they've had any blown plugs.

 

I recently purchased a 2003 F250 Super duty with the 5.4L and this is the ONE issue that scares me to death. I know my vehicle has the recall for the cruise control out but the plugs blowing out is one that is very troublesome. Its going in for it's 60K mile service soon (and to take care of the recall issue) does anyone know the cost to change all 8 plug(s) by the dealer?

 

If I'm correct the 2003 heads are improved with eight threads instead of four on the 2002 and earlier heads-----you might be just fine. The cruise control recall was a defective pressure switch mounted on the brake master cylinder as one more fail-safe measure for cancelling the CC. Its an easy fix if not already done.

I've heard the stealerships charging upwards of $400 and much more for plugs but if you're even halfway mechanically inclined this is a task pretty easily learned and practiced. There is a ton of information about this very issue here in these forums which has taught me quite a bit. I drive an E250 which is arguably more difficult than the F-Series since access is very limited. Even so I've watched this done in about 3 hours which included all due care and steps to assure it was a good job.

FWIW while talking to my closest stealership about the anti-seize they use was advised the techs in the shop don't use any at all when changing plugs-----WTH?!?!?! Not sure that's the best way to go---DIY might give you a bit more peace of mind plus save a ton of cash.

 

I'm pretty inclined mechanically i just would use the stealership because if they touch it and then it breaks i can say they messed with it first. If i do it and it fails well then its my fault. Thats my line of thinking however im sure the dealership would deny any wrong doing and blame it solely on me if they changed them then i had one come out of the head. Yu wouldnt happen to have any links to tips on changing the plugs in a super duty would you? I searched but it is a wealth of info that is kind of fragmented. I read about 20 posts on it in about 2 dozen threads but nothing that stood out as a great tip.

 

If you're okay dealing with the hassles of a dealership then by all means go that direction. Problem for me is I don't want to waste that time and energy possibly still losing in the end just to try placing blame and liability elsewhere. The best way to cure a problem is avoid in from the beginning but to each their own.

Here's what I've gleaned from this site and practice when I've changed plugs:

Use only Motorcraft! Supposedly their threads are cut differently than any other manufacturer therefore would be a much better fit.

Use a nickel-based anti-seize (Permatex 77124, Amazon) on the plug threads and COP bolts too.

Replace rubber boots even if in doubt, make sure to use dielectric grease inside the very tips to help exclude water and prevent oxidation. Boots are about $8 each from most parts outlets---I prefer NAPA or OEM.

Torque to spec carefully---do NOT exceed the recommended torque--this can not be stressed enough!! I have a dedicated 3/8" drive new torque wrench just for this chore, Wright Tool #3478, calibrated in Newton-Meters & Inch/Pounds.

When removing & reconnecting the COP wiring check each on for a "click" that shows its been engaged by the locking tabs on the chassis wiring connector. Careful removal helps prevent breakage but it can happen regardless. If one or more need replaced use NAPA #EC259 for about $20 each---they're well worth the cost if necessary.

The process looks far more daunting than it really is however its not like throwing plugs in a cast iron head at all. We never used anti-seize or dielectric grease and tightened to whatever we felt was good. First time is a bear----the changes afterwards are good for passing time and another form of stress relief---make it Zen if you can!

You're always welcome to ask specific questions here as well-----plenty of helpful folks!

 

Hey JWA,
Not trying to start an argument here. But thought you might like this thread.
Just had sparkplugs changed - F150online Forums

Do a search on this site^^^ you will find a lot of threads on the subject.

 

No arguments here Phil---but WOW what a lot of different opinions on this one topic! Like a few on the linked site I'm now confused too. Perhaps I'll still use the MC SP479 plugs, anti-seize but bump the torque to 21 ft/lbs--a good compromise I think. I'm impressed by the work of Blownoutsparkplug.com and since they have hands-on experience it seems credible.

No shortage of different experiences about these motors!

 

I actually have an appt. with Dave from blownoutsparkplug.com next sunday. Figured i can turn it into a nice little day trip for me and the little lady. Its for his preventive plan.

 

I know Ive always got people on this site giving me a hard time when I tell them how to keep the plugs from blowing out...lol
Just wanted it on record that I'm not the only one who lives by this method and has never had a problem.

 

Well when you're right you're right---or at least have company!
I'm still a bit leery of steel threads installed in aluminum regardless the coating---seems to me anti-seize is just a good idea anyway. Of course the irony of MC plugs with nickel threads and nickel-based anti-seize might serve the same purpose!!

 

I just removed my plugs on my '07 Expy (36k miles) and had no problem. Should I just use anti-sieze and replace the old plugs or does Motorcraft offer a 1-piece replacement? I went to my parts store and they had the same plugs I have ( PZT 14F). No sense buying new plugs if they are the same design, I'll just use mine which are in good shape but if there is a better upgrade from Motorcraft, then I'll install them.

Is the anti-sieze the best method of keeping carbon off the shield?

Thanks