No. Not ever.

 

Good info Cheezit. Thanks. I don't remember seeing anything in the tech area on electrical work like splicing. I guess you could Google that kind of thing.

 

Just ask we dont mind.

 

Late to this party, but hope this helps anyone looking for the EOT/ECT sensor connector. After speaking at length with two different parts guys at two different Ford Dealerships and checking the Motorcraft "Wiring Identification Connector Guide" Ford does not sell this part. Ford's answer is to replace the wiring harness (go figure).

All is not lost however as the connector is a Bosch "Kompakt 1.1A", specific part# 1 928 403 874, and it uses BDK 2.8 terminals
http://www.bosch-connectors.com/bogs...9/product/1473

Alliant Power makes up these pigtails and they are available through multiple local & online retailers, for about $28.00. Use there "dealer locator" to find a local retailer.
Part# AP0056
Home - Your Diesel Parts Distribution Network | Alliant Power

Hope this helps

 

I haven't tried it, but I also read that GM part number 88953310 will work great if you break a tab off (EOT / ECT)

 

It is good see Blackhat620 is still around. I have always put a lot of faith in your posts as well as reading them. Cheers to Bismic and Cheezit. They are also still posting and are a wealth of knowledge.

Tried to rep Cheezit and Bismic also but I must find others first.

 

The GM part will work if you break of a tab. I had that pigtail and confirmed it. However, I thought, "why do I want to jerryrig it when I can get the correct part",.do I turned it and offered the right part.

On the ipr and vgt pigtail, do the part numbers you listed contain the metal retainer or are they the plastic pigtails. I understand ford does not offer the metal retainer like is on the oem wiring harness. To get that metal retainer, you have to order an alliant. Please confirm our deny.

 

IPR / VGT Soleniod Pigtail Connector Repair Kit 94-07 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

Anyone know if this will be a good buy for on 2003 6.0 IPR pigtail?

 

Hey all, new here and to all of this. I just replaced the turbo and pedestal on my 2000 7.3 PowerStroke. In the process I broke the IBPV connector. I read elsewhere that this is the same connector as the IPR connector. I have not been able to confirm that, so I am wondering if anybody can give me a second opinion?

As an aside, the truck now has a lot more power, but is running real rough, as though it isn't hitting on all cylinders. No joke, sadly. As I understand it, this sensor should not cause such a problem. Is there something I could have knocked loose in my attempt. Runs rough even without the turbo engaging.

Thank you!

Wife's mad at me now, chris lund

 

I don't know about the connector.

Have you pulled codes? Performed a power balance test on the injectors?

 

If memory serves, the 7.3 and the 6.0 ipripr pigtail is the same. I don't know what the IPBV sensor is. This is the 6.0 forum.

 

IPR or VGT solenoid connector 6E7Z-12A690-DA 1878512C91.

I know it's also an injector connector for a 7.3, but I'm not sure about the IBPV.

 

I am a little surprised that Cheezit does not solder his splices. When I first started working at Ford I got called down by the lead mechanic for useing crimp splices.
I was fixing to repair a harness and he saw me gathering my box of crimp connectors and tools and he walked over and said. Son you work for Ford now we dont crimp anything we solder connections. At first I thought he was just razzing the new guy but he was also repairing a harness at his work station. Not a crimp type connector anywhere. Just a soldering iron heating and some solder. He didn't even have any crimp pliers in his tool box.
Maybe it was just the way I was taught he made it seem like it was Ford policy.
I been soldering them eversince. I will admit in my later years I cheated. There are companies sell unisulated connecters with solder allready in the connector. Just trim your wire ends slide a piece of heat shrink on one wire stick the ends in the connector and hit it for a couple of seconds with a pencil torch. After it cools slide the heat shrink over and shrink the tube. Done wrap with tape and be gone.