well right off the bat here ya go. i know how we all love pictures.


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Helped change a buddies water pump. heres the trucks bio - 250k f350 cc sb...2nd Replaced waterpump. so a total of 3. red extended life coolant. if you look close where it goes against the motor there you can see the fragmented parts of the housing. his best bet would be to fill tht in and sand it down but he wanted to get it done...

my question is, how many of us have that same problem and dont know it. my truck has 100k on it. should i replace the water pump to make sure i dont have that pitting and do a coolant flush to make sure im safe.


food for thought!!!!

 

Im at 180,000 and I didn't have the cavitation when I swapped to elc. Joe posted up a while back and his looked worse.

 

Hope'n to replace mine this weekend..106k. Got all my goodies, so if i got the time (seems i'd rather get ur done, then try to remember pics), but if something like thats evident, then i'll snap some.

 

I wouldn't pull the pump just to check for cavitation erosion. But I would certainly get some test strips to make sure the SCA is at the right level.

Last time I changed my pump at about 105k that part of the front cover looked brand new.

I feel fortunate but I always kept up with the SCA until I switched to ELC.

 

Wow, so that's what cavitation looks like. Very interested in following how this is repaired, assuming the project isnt already complete????

I just did my waterpump last weekend and my insides looked like new. I had 315k miles when it failed, 1st waterpump. Looking at the photo I would suggest a very thorough flush (seriously) of the block to remove all the brown gunk, and when all is said and done you add a coolant filter. Deisel Site sells a pretty good one that I just installed along with the new water pump. I'll post pictures later today. If you dont flush it and get that gunk out, your new waterpump will not last as long as it should, your coolant cannot protect the block, and your cavitation will continue.
Looks like alot of contamination in your ports.

What year is the motor? For the PSD pre 1999 I dont think they recommend an ELC. Check me on that date though. When you do replace (post 1999) go with a HD ELC, not just an ELC.

Also, go to the So Cal Chapter thread and read this thread. SpringerPop gave me some great advice on replacing my water pump. Much of this you may already know. He also has links to build your own coolant filter at the bottom if you are so inclined, I just bought the kit. No time to parts hunt.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html

Best wishes and keep us posted.

 

we just decided to put the new pump in, he was low on cash and needed it fixed.

my fix would have been take some jb weld and put it in there, then sand it back down.

 

It makes me think that is not the only place in the engine that may look like that!

 

You could be absolutely correct because the cavitation is primarily due to electrolysis that can happen anywhere in the system. You should see some of the pitting on exterior of cylinder liners I've seen coming out of big rigs where they didn't stay on top of their SCA package. It will eventually eat holes all the way through the liners and into the combustion chamber if not controlled.

 

I would like to see pics of that kind of damage!

 

I will have to look for some sleeves I have, 680 case back hoe, 2 sleeves started leaking, spun all the bearings and wiped out the crank. 1466 international tractor 1 started leaking but was caught before it destroyed the engine. all of the sleeves look like volcanic deposits.

 

Your's probably looks worse than the one I have, marv. I'm having fits with FTE because I can no longer post images, for some reason, and aside from Jim being able to point me towards one individual, the FTE Ticket System has been a COMPLETE FAILURE.

Sorry... rant over.

I'll try to snap a few pics of what I have, post up to Photobucket, and then post in hte links. Probably tomorrow, though.