quick search in Michigan for you...

Ford 7.3 Liter Powerstroke Diesel Engine

99 7.3 ford Diesel motor and transmission

Ford F450 Diesel Dually 5 Speed (f250 f350 f150 superduty)

 

IIRC, you should have the rotating assembly rebalanced, pistons, rods crank. It has been done without doing that but it would be good insurance.

 

Now, this is where I'm ignorant... I never have, but always wanted to build a motor. I had seen something somewhere about balancing the rods, but I just assumed it was "performance-related". I learn something new everyday! Haha... just "swap them over". Sounds good anyways!

 

Since you already are familiar with the hugh value that comes with the Cummins motor in your other truck, I would go Cummins without a doubt. Like you said about crunching the numbers, it may not be cost effective at first glance but that will also be determined by your plan for the truck and how long you will keep it. If I was in your shoes with a blown motor, was committed to the truck long term, had the cash, Cummins would be the only route I would go.

 

I chose PSD over cummins when my motor broke. I love my truck, 7.3 'issues' and all.

Btw, nuthin wrong with PMR's unless ya want big power.

Longblock $4500 from ford. Bolt up and drive away. (not like cummins swap which usually takes months)

 

Would it ever be cost effective? Wouldn't the cost of the Cummins and all of the ancillary equipment and items required to mate it into the Ford Super Duty greatly exceed the valued of the existing truck?

My experience has been these deals are never cost effective. Doesn't mean I never follow through with them. Just that a cost analysis comparison generally never justifies such a conversion.

 

Swapping a cummins doesn't have to be an expensive proposition. I did all of the work on my 77 and kept my total conversion costs right around $2,000, motor included. I kept it low by keeping the dodge manual trans, buying a complete dodge donor and parting it out.

The cost of a swap sky rockets when you start mating different makes of transmissions and buying every part produced for a swap. In the case of my 77 no one makes motor mounts for them, so with $3 worth of 1/4 scrap steel and three hours with a welder and plasma cutter I made my mounts.

I appreciate the links for the engines looks like there are a few deals out there.

I do have another question. I thought pmr's were ok until you were flirting with the 500 hp range? I know I was nowhere near that unless I'm the first powerstroke owner to hit that mark with stock hpop, injectors and turbo. So in my opinion something else went wrong whether it is mechanical or electronic I'm still trying to determine. I'm going to pull the intake tube tomorrow to see what my compressor wheel looks like.

I've had a few offers for my trans ,which has a mild build an only 50k on it, that would pay for half of a rusted out dodge with a good motor and trans.

 

Not all 2001's had pmr.

 

You can toss a rod at any HP level. Introduce enough fuel at the wrong time, and watch rods go out the side of the block.

Or manage to find one with a defect, and see the same thing happen.

Tune a bone stock PMR motor wrong, and you can vent blocks at 300 hp. Tune it right, and you can make it survive at 500 hp.

 

Right, but the pictures and the holes would've had to have been a rod IMO... I can't think of anything else in the lower end that would do that.

To the OP... supposedly, 400HP is the threshold for PMR's. The thing is, I've heard of stock to mild trucks like yours blowing up and then I've heard of high-HP PMR motors like izzy351's that have yet to blow... the tuning has a lot to do with it, if not most of it. Cylinder pressures, which can be affected the by tuning (both negatively and positively), seem to be (from what I can tell) what really make or break the PMR's.

*EDIT* I basically restated what Curtis just said... he just beat me to it.

 

Dang for $4500 I'd have a sweet super duty with a cummins.

 

You know, I always thought it'd be sweet to do a swap... I was looking into it and for my truck, it would work out pretty good. With an adapter plate and a 6.0L starter, I could bolt a 24V right up to my trans without even having to shove the transmission back. I think I could even buy brackets if I wanted to! The only reason I really don't want to do it is because I'm almost positive I'd be so picky about the swap that I'd drive myself insane trying to make EVERYTHING work just like it did when the 7.3L was in it. I've still got alot more research to do about it, though... I'm sure it can be done, I just don't know how at the moment.

 

As far as I'm concerned a 7.3 is just as dependable as a 5.9. Now If I had a 6.0 or 6.4 go on me then I would swap out to a cummins.

 

See my signature... I have to agree with you.

My Dad has a 6.4L... apart from the emissions components making for an almost constant CEL being on, it's not a bad truck. It's got over 80K and so far, nothing major has gone wrong... it was the same way with my uncle's 6.0L, though. It's a nightmare now, but up to about 100K, it was pretty decent. The real deal breaker is gonna be how the truck does after 100K and if it can make it to 200K without major problems. It'll be interesting... I've set the standard in my family as to what reliability is. 303K and I can't complain!

 

Yeah my dad has a 05 6.0 . It's got about 85000 miles on it and he has spent 10 grand on it already. I wouldn't touch a 6.0 or 6.4 with a 10 foot pole. Hopefully this new 6.7 is better.