Ok fellows, I've done a search for this problem and no results. This is a long drawn out problem starting with a spark plug blowing out. While I was figuring out that the threads were actually gone and not just a plug backing out the truck sat for 3 days with the battery disconnected. After tapping the hole, putting in an insert and putting the plug back in and new coil pack on. Hit the key, truck started and died imediatley. So after checking all wiring plugs that had to be disconnected and making sure they were all reconnected went back to the book. It suggested fuel problems, ignition system and vacuum. After replacing the fuel filter, pump and pressure regulator because the truck does'nt have 55 psi it only has 35-40. Still have the same problem. Checked for battery voltage at cam shaft position sensor with key on = none. Trouble shot the wire back to pcm = good. Borrowed a code reader = no codes stored. Had a mechanic friend of mine bring his diagnostic computer over and it showed no key code fault and something else along the same line. All the people I have talked to seems to think that the theft light should be flashing really fast while trying to start vehicle if that system was the problem= it doesn't. So my question is... Is it possible that it lost its key code and the light not be flashing? And if so is there a way to make it relearn the key code? And I forgot to mention that I have checked every fuse that I could find under hood and in cabin.

 

Wild shot - how many times did you try to start it? Is the IAC valve the problem? Can you push on the acc. pedal and see if it keeps running?

 

I've tried starting it about 30 times. I dont think the IAV is the problem took it off and ohm checked and it checked fine.

 

Yes it will stay running if I keep the pedal depressed. But the exhaust is so rich that I have to open all the doors on my garage and air it out.

 

Have you checked all fuses, both under the dash and under the hood, to see if any blew?

 

yes all fuses have been checked.

 

Is your theft light flashing had the same problem had to get a new key and then get the radio rewired because the place that did it did it wrong.

 

well new info.. the book says to check for battery voltage at crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor with key on and engine not running. what it dont tell me... is where to go when no voltage is not present at either one. any ideas?

 

no... the theft light is not flashing

 

First place would be ignition fuse, but you already checked all fuses. So the next thing to do is test (or swap out) the ASD (Sometimes called the EEC Power Relay) relay found in the under hood power box.

 

well i had already swapped eec relay but went out and double checked to make sure. sorry i forgot to mention that. this thing has my brain frazzeled. i'm steering away from anti-theft for now. i dont have enough understanding on how the electrical circuits work. how does or what route does the power take from key on to pcm in order to get to ckp or cmp? i'm thinking i may have broken a wire while fixing the plug. i just dont know which wire to check. i know the pcm is powering up just dont know if its getting the power it sends to the ckp and cmp.

 

Your truck runs with the accelerator held down, albeit rich as you indicate. So I do not believe it is your starting circuit. I am surprised you do not have any codes for further assessment. Even with the exhaust rich, I would drive it a few miles to see if it clears up. Then you have to worry about keeping it idling without holding the pedal down.....

 

Did you clean the IAC valve or just test it? It is an easy job to do. Take it off and clean it before you do anything else. It may save you a ton of money and time. Look in this forum. There is a great thread with step by step instructions and pictures on how to do this. IAC valve controls the fuel mixture at idle which seems to be your problem. They get gunked up and will not operate right.