Read your last post. If you are looking for some KB pistons I have a set I never used. They are the flat tops with .030 over. Just throwing that out there.

 

I would take you up on that, but that would put my compression almost right on 10:1 if I did a .010 deck. I have heard of guys doubling head gaskets, stuck that in and got it to 9.8:1 but I dont think I would want to do that. Just feel that would be too much. Really would like to stay at 89 octane pump gas.

Out of curiosity, what are you asking for them?

 

first isn't the 89 Fuel injected?

You can't use a carb manifold on the fuelie heads.

Also when you recalculated with the KB flat tops did you look them up? They aren't 0 they have valve reliefs like 8cc IIRC.

 

Didnt think about fuel injection. Have to deal with that. edit: I sent him a text and he was running these heads on his carbed '77. He only gave me the block casting, so I assumed the heads matched, but they must be swapped. He is getting me those castings today.

Any issues with parts interchange on the block? I know that the spark plugs changed in the early/mid 70's on the heads. Fuel pump also changed around the same time. How about water pump, timing chain and the other bolt ons?

I did calculate 0 on the flat tops, the 8cc got me to about 9.6:1. I think I am going to be happy with where I am, which, based on correct head gasket figures and averaging three calculators is around 9.12:1

 

I paid about $400 when all said and done. So if I could get about $300 I'd be happy.

Monsterbaby is correct. The pistons have a valve relief of +2.5.
With the right head gasket (ask monsterbaby) you can get a compression ratio close to what you want.

 

Ok, head casting number is D3VE A2A according to him. He also said they have been rebuilt recently. He knows there was a valve job done, but is unsure if hardened seats were installed. Should I worry about it? I know there are different schools of thought on this.

 

ok D3 heads will be nominally 95cc if not milled. you can take 1cc per .006 milled off approx

typically normal head gasket thickness is .041 for felpro and Detroit gaskets.

As to our assuming 89 for engine year. block casting should be D9TE that indicates an engineering date of 1979.

Pretty much everything interchanges on teh blocks with exception of the water pump. you have ot be sure it's the one for the type of belt your running. Serpintine belts use a reverse rotation water pump (I can't recall right off if the timing cover was different on teh 460s or not, I know it is on the small blocks but not sure on the big blocks just drawing a blank)

as to if it's had hardened seats installed take the exhaust valves out and look. wire brush down into the throat a little, you can usually see a parting line where the seat starts.

 

[quote=
as to if it's had hardened seats installed take the exhaust valves out and look. wire brush down into the throat a little, you can usually see a parting line where the seat starts.[/quote]

Block casting is D9TE AB as you suspected. Will I have to switch to an electric fuel pump?

So, if no hardened seats, must I have them done? If so, what is the usual cost to that?

Also, any reason i should pass on these heads? i know they arent anything special. i have the DOVE heads now, but I hate having to build around the smaller chamber. The piston options get scarce. i will be buying pistons no matter what and I would likely need these heads rebuilt anyways. The long block with rebuilt heads is costing me $150. With another set of heads (casting unknown as of now) he wants $100. With no heads he wants $75. The heads arent attached, so I can get a good look at them.

 

Personally if it was my engine and I had the heads off I would make sure it had hardened seats and if not they would be installed.

No you don't need an electric fuel pump with a D9TE block. the timing cover is where the pump bolts onto. You do need to make sure you have a fuel pump eccentric bolted on in front of the cam timing gear to run a mechanical and that the timing cover has the place for the fuel pump to bolt onto. even a lot of the FI trucks have the right cover just have a block off plate bolted over. all you have ot do is remove the block off plate.

There is nothing wrong with those heads. If you check I actually tell people to use them and not worry about looking for D0VE heads. they flow as well etc. Only reason the D0VE heads gain power when bolted on ot replace later heads is the bump in compression which when you are building the motor you just buy the pistons to get you where you want to be. IMHO running a piston with less of a dish makes it more efficient anyway so the late model heads have a slight advantage in that dept.

 

Ok, I have decided to spring the extra $50 for the rebuilt heads. I didnt want any radical work done anyways, just port the exhaust and rebuild. Now I need to find out about the valve seats. Small price to pay if that is all the machine work I have done.

 

Here's a couple things that are a fact.....

1. I saw Ron Iskenderian and asked if they still physically check every valve spring before it leaves the shop- answer: Yes; I called Comp, they gave a generic answer that they have a quality control process...meaning IMHO, they purchase from an external source and like just take their word for it that the springs meet spec

2. Like a good ol cam manufacturer, they will vary any cam grind for your needs (including environmental issues- cold, altitude, etc.), but they have sooo many grinds and variations that it is very likely the profile already exists.

3. If your cam billet is good, they can likely regrind your old cam- saving you a couple of bucks

Try any of this with Comp! Good Luck!

Isky's phone number; 323.770.0930
Crower's Phone Number: 619.661.6477


yeah, ignore me.........my family (including myself) has been building befor this trucker was even born! I may not know all the answers, but I certainly know that I want to speak with people who are actually doing the work...not a customer sales associate who is reading the computer screen and who doesn't know even on their side of the fence what the actual cam spec's are!

 

Yeah I will thanks.

So far the only thing you have shown to know is how to bash on Comp cams leading me to believe you work for someone that sells cams in competition with them. Most of what you post is half truths and outritght lies. Like the supposed fact that comp has a high rate of failure. FACT they have an almost identical rate of failure as Isky and crane. They use the same blanks as Isky and Crane and the same springs etc. Ok so comp uses sales people to answer the phone. fine and?????

you have shown an ability to copy and past and frankly not much else.

I have read through most of your posts and you give zero helpful information. You don't ever show knowledge that you claim if you actually built engines and mostly you post "go talk to xyz" If someone mentions comp you go on your tirade and get really irritated if someone calls you on the carpet for posting copy and paste information. You are not helpful,nor much of an asset to any tech discussion.

and as far as building before this trucker was born... yeah right. try again.

BTW I don't buy shelf grind cams, I design my own and have them ground to my specs. I have used comp I have used Howards and my fav used to be Reeds cams but most people are looking for a shelf grind cam that will do what they need and a lot of people like and use comp's stuff with great success me included. Isky is ok although most of their shelf grinds are 30yr old technology.

 

Fact is, if Comp was that bad it would be viral all over the internet.

Lets keep my application in mind Beechkid. Its not a drag truck and its not going to be doing heavy towing. Its a street truck. For all intents and purposes, an OE cam would probably suit it just fine. I just would prefer to get something to give me a little better performance. Are you saying that Comp isnt at least as good as OE?

If I were using it under extreme conditions, I would be more inclined to heed your advice. Still, as I said, if Comp is as bad as you say, the internet would be spilling over with negative information.

It DOES seem like you are way to opposed to comp cams to be considered an objective source. Normally, when someone doesnt care for a product they state it simply and suggest other options, not crusade against the product as you seem so intent upon.

Honestly, I would be much more likely to accept your advice at face value without the rants.

 

Well, I spoke to my machinist about getting my cam not too long ago. I myself am going to get a custom grind Isky. He advised me to pay a little more and go roller. Here's why. Todays oils don't have the zinc and other metals in the oil that is required to pad the lobes on flat tappets no matter what brand cam. You can get the oil, but your pay out the a$$ for it and its hard to find. Much easier and cost effective to go with a roller because you can use off the shelf oil.

My parents are small business owners, so I like to support the little guy whenever I can. Those are my thoughts on this fewd.

 

Daily driver.....

A roller cam used in stop and go traffic will fail long before a hydro cam would because of oil. Besides, there are tons of hydro cams running with modern oil. Not saying wear isnt accelerated, because I really dont know, but there probably isnt a perfect solution.

As far as supporting the little guy. I work for a corporation and there are about 500 "little guys" that depend on that corporation for income. I know it is trendy to hate on evil corporations though.