i just sold my 96 bronco a few days ago and now i wanna get a 7.3, i saw alot of 6 inch suspension lifts and everybody i know suggested putting a sky manufacturing shackle swap on top of it. i wanna clear 40s and i found a stock 95 f350 i wanna get but i was wondering if i would have to extend the pitman arm even further for the 5 inch shackles after the 6 suspension or would the arm with the 6' lift kit work? and also brake lines and etc.. im 16 and still tryin to figure it all out lol, i appreciate any help before i order anything
Alright you wanna clear 40"s? well you wont need 11-12" of lift with an F350 to Clear 40"s. I had my truck at 9" of lift and there was a lot of room for 40" tall tires. I think that 8-9" and you will be fine. I am going to tell you how I did my truck and I think this is how you should do yours. In my opinion, if you are going to go that high with a truck it needs to be done right... So here goes... First off, I will say that I built my shackle reversal and my rear shackle flip but, if you dont have the facility or experience then purchasing them would be better. To get the lift you want buy the Sky reverse shackle kit and the rear shackle flip kit. Get the 5" shackle reversal and the rear flip will get you 4.5" So, then I would buy 3" lift springs for the front and rear to get the next 3" to reach 8" If complete spring packs are not in the budget then I would get add a leafs. The downside to the add a leaf is that it will really stiffen the ride of the truck, but they are much cheaper than complete spring packs. I dont like lift blocks for the back just because they cause axle wrap and it is annoying, plus I am sure your truck has a factory 2" lift block already and I never liked stacking blocks on top of each other. Now that your truck is 8" is the air you will need to buy new longer brake lines as well as longer shocks. You will need a drop pitman arm as you suggested. On my truck, which is a kingpin dana 60, unlike yours which is a ball joint dana 60, I was able to buy a high steer arm for the right side knuckle and I run High steering. In case you dont know that moves the draglink above the leaf spring and it runs far more parrallel to the ground. I know that you can buy high steering knuckles for the ball joint dana 60 which will replace the whole steering knuckle on the end of the axle. I also thought a company was making a high steer arm for the ball joint Dana 60 but I am not positive. Either way, if you use this steering modification in conjunction with a drop pitman arm your steering will be right. You will be able to ditch your track bar once you do the shackle reversal in the front and you can probably chuck the sway bars too. Now, if you wanna go on to the next step, you can do this too, when you do the rear shackle flip it will move your rear axle forward 2" and shorten the wheelbase, it will make the rear driveshaft too long, and it will be bottomed out into the transfer case tailshaft, you can drive it like that but dont. You have three options, shorten the driveshaft, move the rear axle back by moving back the spring hangers, or you could use an axle offest block like a zero rate, if you took out your factory 2" lift block. After that you will have to have your front driveshaft modified probably to a CV style shaft so you can get by your transmission crossmember and still reach the front axle. I suggest this method because having a milder lift spring like a 3" is going to be all around better than a 8-10" banana lift spring. Then, you will proabably want to regear your truck to deeper gears so you can get those 40" meats moving. I dont know what engine you have or what gearing the truck has, but 40" tires suck the power out of a stock engine. Good luck, and have fun... I am going to read this now and see if I missed something... another post may be pending..
Also, to clarify, because your truck has "rake" in it the front is lower than the rear, usually by 2". You need to make sure if you decide to order springs individually that you get springs that lift the truck more in the front than the rear if you want to level it out. If you ordered 3" lift springs for the front and the rear than you could ditch the factory 2" block in the back and you would effectively lift the rear by 1" and the front by 3" and it would level out.
Now I see that you are wanted to get this truck with a 7.3, well than the truck will have decent torque and if it has 4.10 gears you can probably get away without regearing. My truck is a 302 with no torque and 4.10s and it sucks getting my 38"s going. Since I swapped in the manual with the low first gear it is better, and more fun to drive.
I'm bored and have one more thing to add. When I say that 8" is enough lift for 40'"s that is based on how I like a truck to look. I like the wheelwells filled more. If you really want the truck to sit higher than you can go with taller lift springs and get it up to 10" plus. When I had my truck that high my tires look way too small for the lift, plus... I just didnt feel comfortable driving around on the backroads, always felt like I was going to tip over, lowered back down a little made me feel better. But, you are 16 and have no fear so you probably wont have that problem..
wow, i appreciate all the help. i think your right about the 11 inches being a little to much though. i was judging that based on the amount of lift that my bronco had, it had a 6 suspension but it cleared 36' tsl's without rubbing, so i figured it would take around 11 to clear 40s decently but an 11' on a solid front axle seems much taller than on the ttb but again i really appreciate you going in depth like that, im gonna hold on to this forum for when i get the truck lol and i also like the tires to be in the fender wells a little bit rather than the frame sitting clear above the tires.
i had 40's on my 89 diesel and only had a 6 inch lift on it.
11 inches of lift takes you into mall crawler land.
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