How to replace your 4.6L & 5.4L spark plugs

[lancekilgore]

Just a note on the air intake cleaner, when I clean them on mine and for my coustomers I use a tooth brush to help break up the sludge. I also do it with the engine off. I spray then use the toothbrush then wipe it away with a rag. It also helps to get the butterfly edges as well as the. Once all is inspected and clean I start the vehicle. Of course it does not start up right away. I have found the vehicle runs a lot better after this technique. Lance

[lancekilgore]

I made a special socket wrench that has a 8 in extention welded to the reg socket and I use it for all vehicles especially since most new vehicles come with deep recesses that make it difficult to pull the plug or socket out.
still had to use a universal on a few of the fords plugs with this special tool.

Lance

[dkoenig]

I did it. Took awhile for me. I took a day off from work, and it ended up pouring rain, so i had to pull it up to the garage (won't fit inside, too much stuff :-( ) and work under a tarp, but it is done!

I replaced the #4 and #8 COPS, and the boots and springs for the other 6.
I did 1-4, then 5-8.

The #4 was not as hard as I was thinking it would be, but I had all the tips and tricks and EXPERIENCE from this board to make it more do-able. The one that took the longest for me was the #7. That bolt for the COP under the rail, I had to use a 7mm wrench 1/8th turn at a time.

I removed the fuel rail on the 1-4 (probably not needed), and chose not to remove it on the 5-8 (although I almost wish I had for that darn #7).

Only issue I had that gave me a scare was after I did the 1-4 I put everything back together and started the truck, to see how it ran, and it ran BAD. turned it off. Checked evrything I could without removing them all again. I figured I messed up something with the fuel rails (bad seating or something). Long story short, I had unknowingly disconnected the hose from the PCV valve. Could not see it easily, the PCV was in, so it looked fine. Once I hooked it back up, nice and smooth.

Thanks again to all on the board who have helped and my only add is:

Have all those tools recomended! I skipped the 7mm wrench (thought I had one but had not verified) and the job took me an extra 2 hours waiting on a friend to bring one by.

3/8" ratchet
2*3" and 2*6" extensions
1 universal joint
Plug socket which I taped to one of the 3" extensions
10 mm socket
7mm socket (1/4" drive) w/ nut driver
7mm open/closed wrench

[rogerstraw]

hugepettyfan,

Can you remove the fuel rails on one side at a time? I replaced the plugs on my 97 F250 today (driver side only) and had a dickens of a time removing the COP under the "Fuel Pressure Regulator". Third COP from front driver side. I took the manifold bolts off the fuel rails and eased up a bit to help make more room and had some gas spillage so I tried to put them back in place. Now I have some leaking around the injectors.

Is it possible to realign the fuel rails, one side at a time and stop the fuel leaking?

Any information you can give would be helpful. I have a ford manual on cd but it seems to be a rather involved process including draining the cooling system, ect, ect.

thanks, rogerstraw p.s. if I have screwed this up, sorry....my first attempt to post

[GammaDriver]

move? yes, in fact I just raised the 4.6's fuel rail on the passenger side to get to the plugs. I never raised the driver's side. remove? i dunno

[PhilcoPGM]

Racerguy,

Got an important question. I'm buying a 2005 F150 w/ 5.4 motor. Am I making the right decision to buy the 5.4 or should I stay w/ the 4.6 that I'm used to. Mechanically, which is a better performer? Which is easier to repair? What are the quirks of both motors? Because I do the underhood repairs myself, which motor will keep me more sane?? Never had a COP system, nor ever had to deal w/ the fuel rails on my 1998 F150 4.6. Had 185,000 miles on my 4.6 motor, and have no real complaints. Will I be pulling my hair out w/ the 5.4 motor? I purchase on Tuesday, August 22.
Really value your input Racerguy. Many thanks!

Philip

[Racerguy]

Both the 4.6 and 5.4 are good engines. I wouldn't hesitate to buy either of them. You'll probably like the extra power that the 5.4 has, especially in the newer style truck which is heavier.
I really haven't done much work on the new 5.4's yet other than oil changes. So far we haven't had any of them apart in our shop.
The plugs aren't any worse to access than on the older engines. You do need a new socket for them though. They use a 9/16" wrench size spark plug now.
Are you buying a 4x2 or 4x4?

[code_red]

Just a little note for all who decide to go with a body lift for your truck. After it is on, The rear plugs are a hek of alot easier to get to and change.I did mine yesterday and it was quicker and a less knuckle breaking. the kit raised the truck 3" , which equaled 3 more inches to get your hand and tools back in there. Now the rear change as quick as the front. However I do have to sit up on the raidator support to get up into the truck(lol), but beats the hek outta fitting the back plugs

[xtrford]

I dont know if it's been mentioned already(BIG thread) but invest in a good set of wobble head extentions for your rachets, it does help alot when changing the plugs from these heads especially trying to clear the firewall when removing plugs 4,5 and 7,8. Just my two cents.

[DoofusOfTheDay]

I have 93,000 miles on my 1998 F-150, v8 4.6l Triton. I saw the post on how to change plugs - http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=104027

But my COPS don't look at all like the pictured ones. Mine have like a pliable rubber boot over them. I can't see any nuts to loosen. I am afraid to just start tugging on the rubber booty to get at the plugs. Any help on how to remove the COPS and get at the spark plugs?

Thanks.

Gregg

[lancekilgore]

did the 98 come with cops, or coil packs, sounds like you have coil packs and the all you have is a boot to remove. what kind of wire is going to the rubber part you are talking about? electrical wiring or spark plug wires?

Lance

[DoofusOfTheDay]

Argh, good call. I guess I don't have those COPS...It's just a regular old spark plug wire.

[lancekilgore]

I'd go ahead and replace them it is normally done around that milage.

[whimsey]

Actually over this weekend I checked the plugs on the pasenger side, #1-4, for tightness because I'm getting a noticable tick from that side. I was dreading tackling the job because of all the horror stories I read. I have to say it was not as horrible as I was dreading. The key as to use a step stool to EASILY reach the plugs, I have a 4X4 and I'm 6'1". And have a strong light to see what you are doing, espcially in the rear plugs. Plus have the engine cold or slightly warm at the most. Take your time and all should go well. With these OHC engines the socket extension has a tendency to pull out of the sparkplug socket when you tightened it and go to remove the socket from the plug. Sears has a wonderful extension, it has a lock on it so you can't seperate the extension from the socket. Plus have an assortment of differnet length extensions and at least one knuckle joint attachment. It saves you a lot of time and aggravation. Also use an inch/pound torque wrench on the plugs to make sure you don't over or under tighten them. The Haynes manual call for 84-168 inch/pounds, I used 130.

On the bright side all the plugs were tight so it seems that the ticking is most likely one of the fuel injectors. The ticking with the never heard before spark knock had me worried one of my plugs was loose . Probably a bad load of "hurricane" gas in NJ .

I'm going to change the plugs at 50,000 miles( I have 25,000 miles on them now) just so they don't "weld" themselves into the head by the time they reach 100,000 miles.

Whimsey

[xtrford]

Dont forget to use anti-seize sparkplug grease liberally on those threads, just piece of mind for your next plug change.