Just changed my 2000 4.6 yesterday. Took me 3.5 hrs. My 4.6 has COP, and I think one of mine is bad. A week ago I hosed off the engine (lightly hosed off) and the next morning drove it to work with a miss/ rough running engine. I parked it after that day, and bought new plugs. It still misses under a load. I think I may have finished off a COP, maybe #4? I need to get codes pulled to see.
Did any of you guys use anti-seize on your plugs when replaceing them? Haynes said to do it, so I put a little on them when I did them. I used my 3/8" bar type torque wrench, and it was difficult to get the exact torque at 168 in/lbs as my wrench only is marked at 150, 175, 200 etc. A couple of plugs I was not able to get the torque wrench on, so I had to estimate it.
I have little experience with torque wrenches - I have always tightened plugs using the "finger tight and another turn" method. (I'm sure this is all wrong.)
For this job, I got two torque wrenches, 3/8 drive, little and big, and they both feel like at 13 ft/lbs the plug will rattle itself out.
I changed #1 sparkplug on my F-150 5.4L just to get the feel of it, and if 13 ft/lbs is enough, I've been putting in plugs WAAY too tight for a long long time.
Can this 13 foot pound number be right? Doesn't feel right. With the aluminum head, now I'm nervous.
Thanks Racerguy....instructions close to being right on the nose for '99 4wd Expy.....only needed to remove the egr sensor that's on the front egr stud a nut and a bolt 10mm....then removed wiring harness from that (don't worry idiot proof all plugs are different on this sensor and valve)also unplug hoses and lay across master cylinder
Hi dask1 and welcome to the forum
Any time I work on the engine in a van I remove the front seats before doing anything else. It only takes a few minutes and makes the job a lot easier.
I find that changing the plugs in a van is no worse than in a truck. Actually the rear plugs are easier.
Good luck with it
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I wouldn't use Champion plugs but if it's what you have I guess it's better than nothing. You could maybe call a parts store and get them to check the part number again for you.
If you take a look at http://www.clubfte.com/users/racerguy/IMG_0508.JPG you'll see the fuel rail and injectors. The engine in the picture uses COP's instead of plug wires but otherwise it's the same. The injector is the yellow and black piece.
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my #2 cylinder misfire problem remains. did a down and dirty disconnect the factory wire (which looks good and no burns etc.) and jumpered a new wire in, problem remains. so now I guess that I go after the fuel end of the thing.
Do I really have to pull the intake plenum to get at the fuel injectors?
Also I read on the Alldata site that the right and left sides use what appear to be different plugs:
"The spark plugs on the RH side (cylinders 1, 2 and 3) spark plugs are AWSF-42EG."
"The spark plugs on the LH side (cylinders 4, 5 and 6) are AWSF-42E."
Anyone know why?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dasnuke
well, got the plug back in finally. the Champion has about twice the thread length of the Motorcraft plug that was in there. Still got misfire on #2 so I guess the wire is next.
my #2 cylinder misfire problem remains. did a down and dirty disconnect the factory wire (which looks good and no burns etc.) and jumpered a new wire in, problem remains. so now I guess that I go after the fuel end of the thing.
Do I really have to pull the intake plenum to get at the fuel injectors?
Also I read on the Alldata site that the right and left sides use what appear to be different plugs:
"The spark plugs on the RH side (cylinders 1, 2 and 3) spark plugs are AWSF-42EG."
"The spark plugs on the LH side (cylinders 4, 5 and 6) are AWSF-42E."
Anyone know why?
With Ford's EDIS, a plug from each bank fire together, and in series. One plug will get the negative portion of the spark, while the plug in the other bank gets the positive portion of the spark. With opposite polarities, the GND electrodes will erode on the plugs in one bank, while the center electrodes will erode on the plugs in the other bank.
Instead of double platinum plugs, single platinum plugs are installed originally. The GND electrode is platinum on one bank, while the center electrode is platinum on the other bank. This is the reason for the 2 different part numbers.....
Just bought one plug at the ford house for seven bucks! Had to go there to get an air plenum gasket anyway.
Autozone carries Motorcraft plugs (some part numbers) for $3.99. My local Ford dealer (Durham, NC) ordered the Motorcraft "fine wire" platinums for my Ranger, and charged me $4.74 / each.
dasnuke, at 105,000 miles i pulled the factory plugs and put in a set of autolites. I just hit 170,000 miles and couple of days ago i bought a set of motorcraft platinums. New plugs can be a nut buster to install so from now on i am only buying motorcraft. If your mileage is around 100,000 i would suggest new plug wires too ( i used OEM motorcraft wires at my 100k change)
I dont think the motorcraft plugs are available now in double platinum, only single platinum (at least for a 1997 4.6). good luck.
Racerguy,
my truck which is a 5.4 runs great and has 52,000 miles and since it runs good i dont see why I should chage them. Do you see any problem waiting untill about 90,000 miles and have them changed?? Its a 2001 Supercrew
You probably wont gain much by changing them now but it wont hurt either.
Sometimes as plugs get worn they can have random misfires that you wont feel which will hurt the gas mileage but if it still runs well and gets normal gas mileage then you're probably ok to leave them.
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