I am looking for replacement upper and lower rear trailing arms and the track arm. All of mine are pretty rusted and I will want to replace these before they cause any problems. Anyone have suggestions for either an inexpensive stock replacement, or preferably an aftermarket option that doesn't cost $500+. I am thinking about taking all of the pieces off, and going to a welder and having them make me some replacements. Has anyone here done this and what problems, if any did you run into? It would be nice to know how much I can expect for some work like this to be done, since I have never had a part made for me before.
Check out this website. These are by far a better product than OEM stamped steel. For the same money you can get a great product. The link below is for all 4 trailing arms (upper/lower). They do sell lowers only for about 1/2 that. Give them a call.
Yeah thanks bud. If you would have read my post I was looking for an INexpensive option since my Expy is just my beater. And I did do a search, I was just wondering what else was out there that didn't cost an arm and a leg. I only paid $3200 for the Expy why would I want to spend $700 (PMT) when I can get them made for possibly half of that, or just maybe someone has a set of good stock arms that are just sitting in a garage collecting dust.
I talked to the welding instructor at my local VoTech, and he said that if I bring in the materials (he recommended schedule 40, 2 inch round pipe) that he would be happy to weld up my track bar and trailing arms. I bought some aftermarket upper arms from a seller on ebay to eliminate any chance of messing something up since it has that kink in it.
I measured everything twice today and I got 20 3/8 for the lower trailing arms and 47 inches for the track bar. My questions are these:
1. Can someone post the measurements for the inner diameter of the bushing tubes for the track bar and lower arm?
2. Any suggestions on different pipe, I priced the schedule 40, 2 inch pipe and it is only $3.50 a foot. Is that gonna be enough strength?
3. Any suggestions on size of the bolt needed to make the lowers adjustable......... just in case I lift it later on.
Alloro, watch what you say. A welding instructor from the local college is usually someone with many certifications and experience. I think the instructor has way more experience welding and knowledge than the person who sits in a tiny little cubical doing the same weld day in and day out welding these arms up for PMT. You are paying a company $250 for $20 in parts. It takes no more than 15 minutes to make a set. Add that up and you $40-$50 in materials including powder coat. That is quite a mark up if you ask me. I like his idea. The steel used by PMT is no different than the stuff you buy from a steel supplier. The bushings can be found quite easily. JDMitcell is on the right track. Take pictures of before and after so we can see. I am thinking about doing something similar. Except, I will use my original arms as a frame and simply box them in. They will look just like PMT part when I am done. I am a fabricator/welder by trade so this is a simple fix and I guarantee the arms I do will be stronger than any OEM part and just as strong at PMT. What is a few hours of work and $50 in steel to do all the 4 arms plus the track arm. Keep us posted JDMitchell!
I will try to remember to take pics of the progress and keep records of measurements and material used. I know that it would be nice for me right now to have a shopping list for everything needed to do this.
No I will not watch what I say. I don't care how good of a welder you or an instructor from the local college are, you do not have the equipment to test this type of fabrication to prove it's road worthiness. These arms are responsible for holding the entire rear axle and suspension in place. You have no idea how the materials used are going to hold up to the constant beating, stresses, heat, cold, or road minerals over time.
As to the PMT ones, I have no knowledge as to whom welds their products. But I do know their product has been and is being used without any issues.
Cutting cost corners and putting people lives on the line is what you're trying to tell me is okay here. Do you really think that's a point you can push while calling it being responsible?
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So, Alloro, you are saying you know everything about everything. I guess you have never built a hot rod from the ground up. Boxed a frame, built custom front/rear suspension for cars, built gassers, welded anything besides some tin, etc.... whatever. I really don't need to prove a point to you. What he is doing will be far better than factory stamped steel and will be just as strong as PMT parts. Even if it isn't the same as PMT it will still be stronger than OEM stuff! If you know anything about stamped steel, it's weak. Why do you think most manufactures now hydroform truck frames now. It's stronger instead of stamping it out. It doesn't even compare to the dude that bought black pipe at H.D. Anyone who welds knows that will not work! Here is PMT description:
Upgrade from your old stamped steel OEM suspension parts to our bulletproof boxed design. Polyurethane bushings offered in black are easy to lubricate with grease fittings and a durable powdercoat finish in high gloss black. The lowers are constructed with 1 1/2 x 2 x .120 wall boxed tubing while the uppers are laser cut and precision bent from .375 hrp&o mild steel for the ultimate in strength, fit and finish. Upon opening the box, you will see that they are nothing short of impressive! This kit comes complete with hardware....ready to install! Thank you for looking......Own the best product for the best price hands down!
I can go to the local steel shop and buy 1 1/2 x 2 x .120 wall boxed tubing. .120 = 1/8 thick. Very common and same as what PMT uses. As for welding it, no different than PMT. Sorry, to say, but this is something you don't anything about!
Good luck JDMitchell, keep us posted and don't worry about Alloro. I know, I know.
I will not cut corners on the parts I have made for my expy. I bought this vehicle to transport my family and all our gear for camping and bike riding, since it would be a little cramped in our main family vehicle (CX-9). Even if the DOM is twice as much per foot over the schedule 40, I will err on the side of safety. I'm not saying that the schedule 40 isn't strong enough since I am just a dumb grunt but if there is even a chance that it won't last I will go ahead and buy what has been proven as a good strong piece of metal for fabrication. Thanks for the opinions from both sides of the fence.
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