No really...should I just get rid of this POS and find something else? Got the Code 33 EGR valve not opening...replaced the EGR valve, and the EGR Vacuum Solenoid...STILL getting the Code 33...I'm guessing the EGR Valve Position Sensor might need to be changed? WTF gives? Oh, and to top it off, I took my starter in to get tested...they said it was bad...so I changed it...it started up GREAT when I had it all back together....took it to the gas station....started great perfect when I was done there...drove about 20 miles down the highway and back home....turned it off....went to start it again just to check it...AND IT WON'T START!!!! Now..I did change the positive battery terminal...which seems like a "no brainer"...just shove the wires through and tighten....was I supposed to twist the wires together? I just dropped around $180 for this EGR Valve, Starter, and battery terminal today...and my fu#$%*g truck won't start....someone please tell me shoot it or blow it up...I will...

 

id check to see and make sure you dont have carbon buildup that might have formed in parts of your egr system. if there is it is going to restrict the flow, thus triggering a CEL.








and if you decide to blow it up....put that **** up on youtube!

 

pull your plugs and see whats going on, is it turning over when you try to start it?

 

Check the EGR vacuum lines and the solenoid that feeds it. A vacuum leak or problem in the solenoid or its circuit could be throwing the code.
I like to twist the wires and tin them with solder. Some on this board have had problems with the cables themselves getting resistive.
regards
rikard

 

muffler bearings......






i say do it. and yes.. post the vid!!!

 

It does turn over when I try to start it. Just acts like there isn't enough juice to get it kickin'. The alternator is new, high output, and had it tested and its fine. The only other thing I can think of is...the battery is one of those $25 remanufactured deals instead of a nice new one. I had the battery tested though, and it tested good? Could something still be up with it?

As far as checking the EGR vacuum lines...how do I go about doing that? I have replaced the EGR vacuum solenoid with a new one already. Also...I had thought replacing the EGR valve would solve the rough idle issue...but after running a few minutes it still idles high, and drops off...idles high, and drops off...know what I mean? Would the EGR valve position sensor (the thing that screws onto the top of the EGR valve) have something to do with that? Or do you thin it is a vacuum line issue?

 

P.S. it jumps off just fine...

 

If it you can get it going off a jump I would lean to the Batt. As for the EGR have you checked the vacuum line that runs from the Sel. to the EGR. From the jumping Idle and lack that the valve is opening I would suspect that the vacuum line has a crack in it. If the EVP sensor was bad you would be getting other codes than the EGR not opening. My opnion no truck is worth blowing up its always easier to fix........but if ya do Ill watch it on Youtube too

Wait.....Scratch the batt Idea. If you replaced the Pos. Batt Terminal. Was it having Issues before you replaced the terminal?

 

There is this thing just hanging loose down near the power steering cap...for the life of me, I can't figure out where it might plug in?



https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/m...8-pics116.html

 

First, Don't blow the truck up. I'll pay for what you want with parts, etc.
Second, frustration kills determination.

I had a similar problem a week ago with my truck not starting. It seems to finally start after leaving my g/f's Escape connected to it, but still took 10 mins to get it started.
The next day, it wouldn't start over. I removed the starter, had it checked. Re-installed, and back to square one. I put the truck in "RUN" position, took large screwdriver and jumped it across Fender-mounted solenoid. Cranked right over. No start though. Called parts guy and Dealership. He had the Motorcraft Fender-mounted solenoid! Replaced, truck would turn over, but not fire. Finally in desperation, I removed the MSD Blsater coil and installed the Stock coil. Fired right up..Have RMA'ed the MSD Blaster.

Also I wanted to share my experience with EGR's. I'm not sure where you purchased yours from, but I got my replacement from "SLO"'reillys. Always an intermittent miss, even with New EVP sensor, New EGR Solenoid. In desperation, I grabbed the OLD EGR and cleaned it really well. Checked for diaphram leaks, none. Re-installed. Now the EGR system works like it's suppose to. This one Component is better replaced with Motorcraft, as "SLO"reilly's show 2 different types for the model years from '92 to 95, but Motorcraft shows the exact same part # for the same model years. There is a distinct difference between the $114 part I got from them and the OEM Motorcrat one that is running fine after 19 years.

just my $0.02

I shouldn't have dissed Oreilly's. I'm actually really good friends with some the ladies and gents that work there and they have been very helpful in the past when I had problems. I added to my signature the last statement, "Inferior parts lead to immediately failure sooner than later..." due to the success right of NON-OEM parts.

EDIT: I saw your pic about the hose thing. That should be connected to the Oil pressure sending unit, if it located down near the block and there should be one located up near the lower manifold for the Temperature sending unit.

 

I did have issues with it starting a week ago...then i replaced the Starter Solenoid, and the issues seemed to be resolved...except for the fact that when it was hot, it acted like it didnt want to start...but it did (the starter was the issue here). But yeah, after changing the terminal on the positive side, I'm now back to it having issues starting.

 

"I removed the MSD Blsater coil and installed the Stock coil. Fired right up..Have RMA'ed the MSD Blaster."

Talkin' waaay over my head here. I have no idea what all that is. I did replace the Starter Solenoid originally, and it fixed my issue...until today.

And..yes, I did get my EGR valve from O'reilly's. Before I bought it though, I removed the old one, cleaned the living crap out of it, replaced it, and still had issues. Yet now, I have the new one on from O'reilly's and still have the issue. You think the new one is crap? Honestly, I got it because it was mucho cheaper than the others I saw...and until I see if this thing is gonna even be worth keeping, I'm kinda stickin to cheaper parts....still seems they should work though..lol

 

Another thought..

I have read about checking the spark output from the coil itself. I believe you can diconnect the coil plug wire from the dizzy and use something to watch for spark between it and a ground.

As rikard stated, I have done the same thing with soldering the wire to ensure it keeps a good contact and has served me well when I redid my 2G Alt to a 3G Alt.

 

dont blow it up... give it to mee!!!

 

Ok...I jumped it off a couple of hours ago...let it run for a bit..and shut it off. Its been sitting for 2 hours and the engine is totally cooled off. She starts up perfect right now, since the engine is cool? What gives? Still think its the ignition coil???