I need a measurement,
Ive got the 52 F6 Script stakebed (12') sitting on top of the new frame/dump rails but I somehow failed to measure (or lost) what the "original" distance is from the back edge of the stakepockets to the back of the cab.

The distance from the back edge of the rear cab mount bracket to the back edge of my cab is approx 5" and where I have the stakebed positioned currently is approx 5.5" away from the cab mount, leaving 1/2" gap.

I don't initially plan on having the stakebed side boards installed but dont want the deflection from them to hit the back of the cab. I also dont want the space or gap to be too large and look funny.

The cab is removed and wont be back on for a while and even then I don't know what was original as far as the spacing? I'm thinking I should have at least an inch gap but ????


thanks for any help.

Josh

heres a couple pictures of the stakbed and rails sitting on the frame, I want to get them all re-attached prior to reinstalling the cab.

 

That stake bed looks good so far
I dont know if a 6 1/2ft bed was differant

JOE

 

Thanks Joe,

Ya it's coming along, slowly. It's got a few dings and dents in it but it's not going to be a show truck just fixed up and put back together.

I think the space or gap would be the same on all of them? if you get a chance to measure your's that would be great.

Thanks

Josh

 

Josh, my '53 F600 has about a 2" gap.......it's not a script bed though, just a regular flatbed dump.

 

I know it is tite an 1in or so
will check it out tomarrow

 

I took a look today
and at the center of the bed it is

7/8" away from the cab

Joe

 

I also looked at mine today and at the center it is 2" away from the cab.
I never thought about it before I read your question.
Mine is a F3 with a 6&1/2' x 8' bed but it is not the original script bed.
It was converted to a tilt/dump bed maybe in the 50's or 60's.
Fits with what Scott has.
Brian

 

Thanks Guys for the measurments. So sounds Like I probably want at least 1" gap there.

This is a converted stakebed with hydraulics for dump bed action and from the replies so far sounds like the dump beds have slightly more gap, (maybe for clearance on back of cab as the rails and bed are raised and lowered?? ) So I may look at moving it back a little bit more and have about 1.5" clearance??
I was hoping to work on it yesterday but didn't get time with all the honey do's from being out of town for a few days. maybe this week if the weather stays nice??
thanks again

Josh

 

Josh, according to the specs I have it would be 1.525" I measured mine and it is 1 1/8". With the dump, you might want to go just a bit more to be on the safe side.

 

Josh here;s what the space on mine looks like

 

Thank You! that 1 & 1/8" looks good. Still love that paint color

I'll probably go with 1 &1/2" and cross my fingers when placing the cab back on...

Wish mine was as far along as yours and looked that nice

thanks again

Josh

 

Well, I'm not doing the frame off that you are. Is that an old 'Script' frame or did you build it to specs?
I hunted for a bed frame and finally gave up. I'm hoping to have the floor on mine by spring and the sideboards and uprights finished by summer.

I just finished staining my rear bumper and got the first coat of Varnish on it today. As you can see, I still wanted the 'script' on it.

 

WOW! That wood looks great! Nice Craftsmanship!!! Is that Oak? White Oak?

I can’t wait to see your finished project…
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Speaking of wood, I was calling around yesterday for wood options on my bed and one place I talked to said I probably shouldn’t used any Kiln Dried wood for the bed, Especially since this truck won’t have the luxury of being stored inside out of the elements. Initially I was thinking of using oak or another closed grain wood, but now I’m not sure, maybe just go with some plain jane yellow pine? And seal it up really good???
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Not sure what “frame off” really means J probably more like just a cab swap with a little paint on top of the frame rails under the cab…
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The Stakebed is an original I found local, it was on a 52 F5 used on a Cherry orchard its entire life with only 32k miles on it, the cab on it was almost perfect. The stakeside rails are all cracked and probably fixable but not on my immediate to do list. I almost hated to use the parts truck as it was in better shape than mine but… had nice almost new tires and non widowmaker wheels, etc. better one back on the road than none!
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I only paid 300 for my running/drivable F6 and the cab itself was pretty bad shape so the cab swap was necessary to not mess with swapping the dump and 2 speed rear axle and syncro trans.
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Here is the F6 on left and the donor F5 on right the day I brought it home, I think this picture was from about Oct/Sept last year so I’ve made a little bit of progress since then, although not as much as I’d have liked.
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Actually that is Red Oak with a natural stain. It looks lighter than it is because of the picture taken indoors and the artificial lighting. The wood for the bumper is the same wood that is on the bed frame, as you can see it is a bit darker in the sunlight.



I agree with the idea of not using Kiln dried for the truck bed. All of mine is air dried sawmill rough cut lumber. I was trying to use exclusively all Red Oak, but the sawmill ran out and I do have some white oak that I will be using. At this point the side rails are white oak and a few of the floor boards will be white. The only noticeable different in in the grain, the stain and varnish will shown a very close match.

As for the type of wood you use, the choices are numerous, it all depends on what you intend to use it for and the appearance that you are aiming for. I chose the oak because I really like the grain and effects of the wood. Edith will not be used as a work truck so that left me with a lot of options. If you are planning to use this as a work truck, I would suggest the oak over the pine for strength, but if not, the pine would probably be cheaper depending on your source. Also, the thickness of the wood you use is dependent on your use. For show, 1" boards will do, to use as a dump bed you will want 2" boards.
Dealing directly with the mill, the price of oak and pine were actually the same. If you have access to, or a friend with the right woodworking equipment, you will save a lot of $$$ buying the wood rough cut from a sawmill. Otherwise your sources for air dried lumber will be somewhat limited.
Doing just the floor boards would only require a dry covered place to 'stick' and air dry the lumber, and a decent table saw and 12" planer could put it in the same condition as 'store bought' limber, at a fraction of the price.

Just to give you an example, I have about $200 invested in all the lumber to build this bed as well as the sides. For me to have purchased this lumber commercially at the current prices it would have been about $1200.

If I were to do just the floor in oak, my lumber cost would be $46 for 1" or $92 for 2" boards. To buy the limber commercially, already dried cut and planed would be about $250 for 1" or $800 for 2".

 

Well, Funny story!
Before I found the donor F5 truck I was going to proceed with using the flatbed that’s on there in that last picture. I was going to fix those wheel cuts on the side and fix it up.
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So I did get some rough cut pine1x8 +- ? if I remember correctly from the local sawmill (ok, 1.5 hrs away) to use on the floor of it. I had all of the boards ripped to correct width 7.5” if I remember right for this particular bed) and was just getting ready to run them through the planer, then route the relief cuts and the edges for the metal strips when I found the Script bed and now that woods sitting in the shop, the boards are not wide enough for the script bed unless I was to edge route them and glue which I don’t think I (or anybody for that matter?) could do successfully with them ( too large to handle) So Maybe I can use them on the side boards down the road???


I’m not a professional woodworker but have a few tools acquired while building our house and a few additional tools purchased since for other projects. My shop is not really big enough for 12’ to 14’ lumber, makes it quite a challenge. Was going to use the planer outside with some extra tables and rollers set up.
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Guess I should go back to the sawmill and get some wider pine planks for it? I can’t remember the width but its I think closer to 10” +- ?
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Truck won’t see any hard use so the 1” planks will have to work plus the bed recess is only about 1” anyway.
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Here is a picture of one of my more recent wood projects,
I also cased all of our basement windows and window sills with the same Knotty Alder, and have a bunch of Cherry that I’m going to eventually build another mantle with?? Someday!!! lol…


Cheers

Josh