Hi guys, I have been reading threads on here for a year since I bought my 69, and I finally made an account tonight. When I first bought Old blue I had to put in new floor pans and cab mounts right away. Its totally solid now, it just has some rust on the quarters, inner fenders and here and there. Anyway its not in horrible shape. But the old 390 will need a rebuild soon, are the ebay kits any good? I'm only 19 and I have never rebuilt a big block before. Ive heard 390s are relatively easy builds? I want to go totally stock since I have the sale slip and its a complete numbers matching truck. Let me know what you guys think!

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Welcome to FTE

Post your engine questions on the FE forum, there are some good builders there.

Hate to pop your bubble but there is no such thing as a Ford "complete numbers matching truck". It might be applied to GM or Mopar but not to Ford (in this year range).

Better measure the stroke on your engine, very likely a 360 and not a 390. They all get called 390s on sale day, but very few actually are.

There is no visual way to tell either.

Post your VIN, that can tell what it left the factory with. Your truck is more than twice your age, things change.




John

 

Looks sweet! The 390s are relatively simple compared to a modern motor, without a doubt. Get a manual with the assembly guide and you can do it.

The eBay kits are OK, some better than others. If it's a kit with name brand parts and the seller has a good reputation then you'll be OK. There are really 2 ways to do this -- one is to do a quicky rebuild; you pull the motor apart and verify that everything is stock; you get all stock replacement parts and put it back together with no machine work and hope for the best. Sometimes this will work out OK and sometimes it doesn't. If you don't mind possibly having to do the work again down the road it will probably be OK, although the heads really need to be right.

Second way is to do it right, but it's a bit more costly. You've got to have a good machine shop prep your block so you'll know what sizes everything is, and they'll have to do some of the basic functions like putting cam bearings in and assembling the pistons/rods. You'll have some down time this way; the machine shop has to have everything done before you can order your parts.

If the heads are in really bad shape, they can be pretty pricey to rebuild. Typically if they're stock the seats need to be replaced with hardened units to withstand unleaded fuel along with new valves. Inevitably you'll need new springs too.There are a lot of newer aluminum heads available; close to 2 grand for a set but if you're going to spend 6 - 7 humdred rebuilding the stockers the aluminum heads will add a TON of horsepower due to their superior port designs. The heads and cam will really set the pace for how much power the motor will make.

Just figure out what you want to do with it and have the money to do it the way you want before you start. I've got an old 300 six I rebuilt when I was your age, all pretty much stock but I put a good cam in it and worked with a good machine shop and it's still running sweet almost 30 years later.

 

Are those wheels in the bed going on, or did you pull them off?
Truck looks great...where in B.C are you?

 

The wheels on the bed are going on, It came with these vintage Boyds but im not the biggest fan. I want it to be as "factory" as it can be since there is no such thing as numbers matching lol. But thanks so much guys, im very motor and car savy but obviously much to learn. You guys are a big help. I will get my VIN up soon and see what im even dealing with! I had no idea they were mostly 360s. Yes I plan to see check the condition of everything before I decide if im going to do the build. Also sorry for the post in the wrong area, I promise ill learn real quick! -thanks again guys

 

I live in the okanagan, most of these poor 60-70s fords are sitting in orchards down here!

 

you can check on a engine kit from Summit Racing or Jegs.Nice looking truck

 

Nice looking truck. My 67 f100 camper special is that same color. Good luck on the build.

 

I know the Okanagan Valley very well, spent a lot of time there a decade back...I was in the wine industry back then.
Scenery is wonderful. You ever been up to "Tinhorn Creek"? Blue Mountain Vineyards is spectacular.

I too am a big fan of the "stock look", mine pretty much looks like a farmers truck.

Your truck looks great,
Jason

 

nice looking truck !

 

I suggest you not think about value of a "factory" truck. There is not much difference in value as these are not really collectible the way muscle and pony cars are.

If you post the VIN you can find out what it originally came with, but that does not guarantee the engine was not swapped out. Check on the forum for instructions on how to tell the difference by measuring the stroke.

Even if it came with a 360, stroking it to either a 390 or 410 (or beyond) will not reduce its value, just up its fun factor. A 390 can make a wicked engine but you need to think about headers (clearly not stock), and you can do some very good work with a stock intake and heads if you port and polish, and match the intake ports, and up the carb to a 4V.

Since it is really difficult to tell from the outside of the engine, changing the block from a 360 to a 390 is pretty hard to spot (so is swapping the other way to the disappointment of many a buyer). Swapping for a longer stroke, hotter cam and other internal components will not detract from the look or value of your truck.

My suggestion is always - build what makes you happy, but there is never too much torque.

That is a lovely truck.

 

"FE" platform one of the easiest most forgiving motors to build. here is my thoughts. in 69 if you are certain no one touched the driveline then you could have a 390 there. now here is the thing. the truck 390's came with dished pistons making somewhere in the 8.5 to 9:1 compression. what I would do is knock it all apart and check numbers on the crank and rods if it is a 390 get your hands on the 390/360 flat top pistons with the double eyebrow valve releifs. that will net you around 10:1 compession. I would use a mild cam and do the mild porting on the heads in the C8AE heads there is a thermactor bump in the exhaust passage. just by removing that the increases are retarded and you still have a near stock 390. even with a large 2bbl carb on it it will scream decent.

 

at 10:1 compression you will be stuck using super unleaded .i'd stick to 9:1 gas prices are on the rise

 

Yeah, its gorgeous here, it really is. Also as you said, nothing beats a stock ford farm truck!

 

Yeah im liking this sleeper motor plan. Thanks for the suggestions guys! i just need to pull it apart and see what ive got now. Then Ill see what my budget is, and choose a route. Ill have my Vins and stroke lengths up asap!!