Question from the following link:

http://epc.uhaul.com/LinkOne/Viewer/...ok=u-haul/ford

1 KP151084 BATTERY CABLE END, RH POSITIVE (ONLY) 9.59
2 235282 BATTERY CABLE END, LH POSITIVE (ONLY) 13.81
3 235282 BATTERY CABLE END, RH NEGATIVE (ONLY) 13.81
4 23528 BATTERY CABLE END, LH NEGATIVE (ONLY) 11.64

I want to change my battery cables at some point and would like to make them a bit bigger (not unusual to get quite cold here in the winter...colder than -10*C (14*F) and sometimes -30*C (-22*F) with the windchill) so I figure bigger couldn't hurt!
I am curious if anyone knows the deal with the above parts. I've looked around a bit and it's hard to find anything locally and these are likely made to fit the OEM size cable. If that is the case, would it be possible to drill them out or something (just a few sizes bigger) to make them work? I assume they are crimped on the cables in some way...

thanks in advance everyone!

 

Drilling them out won't work. They are only as thick as they need to be for the specified wire size.
You can probably find them cheaper some place else online. The only one that is special, is the double ended one on the passenger side positive terminal. The others just happen to face specific directions for the convenience of design.

 

Cruickie I think you will be fine with the OEM one's. Just keep them clean and tight and watch for green scum on/in the wiring.

Like Alaska, I get -45F here in Manitoba and never had a failure to start unless I caused it. Failure to change oil grade to 10-30 is usually the killer, NOT plugging in the block heater certainly helps too. Replacing "batteries" (2)... every 5 years is a must.....I use Ford only!!!

 

i got mine from advance auto parts for abourt 3 bucks each, there just a shaped hunk of lead its prety hard to mess someting like that up, so there is no reason to spend 10- 14 bucks a piece for them

 

Stock ones are solid copper, not lead. Thats a good part of the price difference.

 

You can get battery cable ends at Napa and most heavy truck supplys and tractor parts stores. Larger marine parts stores will carry them too.

3/0 is a real good size wire to go with any larger and you can't make teh bends. You want tthe largest size you can fit in , it allows the starter to spin faster and not heat up as much

 

if you want to pay big money for cable ends,then do yourself a favor and just get tinned marine copper ends.like RLDSL says at your local marine store.thats what i did and i doubt i payed that much for even those.
i used the open eye type so i could just screw them down on the marine type terminals.


the only parts i didn't use tinned marine were the terminals.but i keep 'em greased.perhaps i'll changed those to tinned marine grade too someday, but clean lead with loads of grease is good.
20k miles and 1 yr so far,and im trouble free running this type of setup.it's so much more handy to add stuff too as well.i wouldn't go any other way now despite what some people have claimed about this type of setup,im having 0 issues.
connecting stuff since then like my my e-fans,dump bed and plow setup took all of a couple seconds to supply them with juice.
if i don't stop soon,it's gunna start looking like a modern engine bay with more wires than valve cover showing lol.

 

Yup, that type cable end comes in mighty handy if you decide to upgrade to group 31s batteries too at a later date , then all you have to do is ditch the adapters

 

Thanks guys! To be honest I haven't looked into it too much..... but usually things I can find locally are quite a lot more expensive than what I can get online... For example, a set of NEW injectors run $328 plus tax (best price I could find... and from a reputable shop that will pop test my uhaul injectors for FREE) and up around $750 for a rebuilt IP and $60 for the injector install kit...

Have to investigate further! Just seemed like a good price initially!