definately one of the guys on allmetalshaping that keep me coming back to that site! Absolutely amasing work you do!

 

To add to this: when die forming (the process described above) The biggest mistake is trying to move too much metal all at once, which results in pulling in the surrounding metal rather than doing localized stretching. Try this: rout or carve a 1 1/2" dish shaped recess into a piece of mdf. Lay a 6" diameter piece of 20 ga sheetmetal over it. Pound the metal with the ball end of a ball peen hammer trying to drive it into the recess with as few heavy blows as possible. The entire piece of metal will lift up around the edges and distort into a ruffled bowl shape. Now do the same with a fresh sheet by first carefully locating the recess under the metal and holding the sheet in place while using lightoverlapping tapping around the edge of the depression barely hard enough to leave an impression in the metal. Direct the blows at an angle towards the edge rather than straight down. Slowly work around and around until you have formed a shallow dish with a sharp edge that self indexes into the recess in the die. Now start tapping in concentric circles from the edge to the center, working around and around each circle until the metal reaches the die surface. By the time you reach the center you will have a nice nearly smooth dish in the center of a flat piece of metal. You will be pleasantly surprised at how quickly you can do this without distorting the surrounding metal.

 

Nice diagram AX. It follows along the explanation nicely

Thanks
Bobby

 

If you are interested in learning about hammerforming, here is a DVD from Ron Covell and Ron Fournier that covers many aspects of the technique from simple scoops to a complete fender. If you can buy it, rent it, or borrow it then it will be well worth the effort....

 

Ax, thanks for the clarification!

 

A hammer is considered a "precision" tool when used properly. Machinists rely on hammers to make tiny adjustments to setups. To use a hammer in a precision manner, do NOT grasp it like a carpenter would to drive nails! Instead hold the hammer near the end of the handle with a relaxed grip and the index finger extended straight along the top of the handle pointed at the head of the hammer, in a manner similar to tapping the finger tip on a table top. Keeping the wrist straight and the upper arm against the body swing from the elbow. Ideally the surface to be struck should be at the same height as the elbow. Let the weight of the hammer deliver the force, not your muscles. You will gain much control over exactly where the hammer strikes and the angle of the blow. This technique is especially important when using a body hammer to shape metal. You can do a lot more work in less time with "love taps" than with "beating it into submission" Save that for driving nails or demolition work.