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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #16  
Old 10-16-2012, 12:48 AM
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When I made plans to build my 1956 Ford F-100 I immediately knew that I wanted to have it roll on a combination of 18-inch front wheels and 20-inch billet wheels for the rear. I wasn’t targeting the pro-street look, but wanted a minimum of a 20 x 10 inch rim for the rear, which a couple of buddies told me was impossible to do on an F-100. (Read More)
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56 F100 390FE C6 8.8 rear

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  #17  
Old 10-16-2012, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edsf100 View Post
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When I made plans to build my 1956 Ford F-100 I immediately knew that I wanted to have it roll on a combination of 18-inch front wheels and 20-inch billet wheels for the rear. I wasn’t targeting the pro-street look, but wanted a minimum of a 20 x 10 inch rim for the rear, which a couple of buddies told me was impossible to do on an F-100. (Read More)
Definitely cool. Too bad I'm one of the budget conscious (poor) truck builders here
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  #18  
Old 11-14-2012, 10:10 AM
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Original Paint

Can you help me find a thread somewhere that helps me with the orginal paint schemes for detail parts? I have done the research to understand the standard exterior colors, the yellow for the engine on my 56, etc. Now I am down into the finer details, for example: 1) are the inner fenders black or body colors, 2) what color should all of the clutch and brake linkages be painted, 3) what color should brakelines be painted or not at all, what about all of the clips for different things - black or body color, etc.

I just can't find these details enywhere.

Thanks for all of your help. Great site!
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  #19  
Old 04-07-2013, 08:33 PM
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Info for newbies

Thanks for the sites...
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  #20  
Old 11-29-2014, 10:25 PM
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Looking for pics on using mid 60 s mustang tank in rear frame rails of 48-50 f 100 have 49 ready to make clean swap even if I gotta do some frame mods. Thanks
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  #21  
Old 11-29-2014, 11:36 PM
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Welcome to the forum, McMannis! You need to do an Advanced Search to find specific info like that. NOT the big Search box at the middle/top of the page, click on the smaller Search in the blue bar and it will drop down a dialog box with the option to do an Advanced Search. Put in the topic you want to search for, and limit the search to this forum (see below.
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  #22  
Old 03-20-2015, 11:48 AM
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Emergency brake (park brake) system - F2

While trying to piece my ebrake system back together (yes, I forgot to take pictures before disassembly) I used pictures from many different posts from many of you posted over quite a few years to get the answers that I needed for the entire system. My thanks to all of you who have posted. I couldn't have done this without you.

This post is an attempt to put it all together into one post. I hope that it helps not only those of you restoring F2s but F1s, F3s, etc. as I believe that most use variations of this same basic design.

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Many of these parts are very hard to find.
Ford cars 1939-1948 use the same parts under a different number.


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Ford Car cross reference - same parts as 1948-1951 Ford F2 Truck
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  #23  
Old 10-28-2015, 01:30 AM
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Help installing cab support arms with new rubber snubber in place. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/14...l#post15738116
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  #24  
Old 11-03-2015, 01:18 PM
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Correction

Ross pointed out that I need to find a shouldered bolt to allow automatic equalization:

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Thanks for spotting that Ross.
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  #25  
Old 11-26-2015, 09:44 PM
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countersink trick - sheet metal

So I bought an altmans easy latch kit for my 56'. They have done a good job with the latch for sure. But its not clean enough for MY liking.

I didn't want to cap my door with another piece of sheet metal, that they supply, to hold the latch in place.

I plan on filling the factory holes and cutting my own holes etc in it afterwords.

I wanted to counter sink the bolts in my door like they came with the easy latch/plate. Tried searching for a punch or die locally, but no luck.

So I made one. Cost me nothing to make really. I have attached a picture. It's just a countersunk bolt with a big nut, a washer, and a nut that threads onto the bolt. The nut, washer, and big nut are welded together to keep the bolt centered in the hole when tightened.

Took a couple trial runs before I got an even punch, but it works great!
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