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CMCV vacuum hose R&R any ideas?

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  #16  
Old 08-01-2014, 09:01 AM
VTX1800N1 VTX1800N1 is offline
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Originally Posted by paredneck33 View Post
oh ok thanks guys. My next question is, are the intake gaskets reusable? or do they need to be replaced each time the intake is removed?
Inspect and if no apparent damage, reusable.

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  #17  
Old 08-01-2014, 09:34 AM
ojai150 ojai150 is offline
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Originally Posted by EBC-150 View Post
Here's a pic...(notice lack of the insulation around the manifold)

Click the image to open in full size.
That's weird how some have the insulation , and some don't ( I cant imagine why it's needed ) I last had my intake off at 135,000 the flaps were clean , I don't know why they would get gunked up , since all that ever touches them is air that has gone through the air cleaner ,...just like the throttle body . ( but we know the butterfly gets gunked up ,...)
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:38 AM
VTX1800N1 VTX1800N1 is offline
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Originally Posted by ojai150 View Post

That's weird how some have the insulation , and some don't ( I cant imagine why it's needed ) I last had my intake off at 135,000 the flaps were clean , I don't know why they would get gunked up , since all that ever touches them is air that has gone through the air cleaner ,...just like the throttle body . ( but we know the butterfly gets gunked up ,...)
It's the PCV system. A small amount of oil gets sucked through it and bakes onto the flaps. An oil separator will eliminate this. I'm considering buying one.

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  #19  
Old 08-01-2014, 09:41 AM
paredneck33 paredneck33 is offline
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Well about the cam phaser noise. How long is too long to run the engine with bad phasers? I apologize for the hijack. Just trying to learn as much as I can before hand.
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  #20  
Old 08-01-2014, 03:22 PM
VTX1800N1 VTX1800N1 is offline
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Originally Posted by paredneck33 View Post
Well about the cam phaser noise. How long is too long to run the engine with bad phasers? I apologize for the hijack. Just trying to learn as much as I can before hand.
Some people run a hundred thousand with it. Some have major damage soon after it starts. No way to tell.

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  #21  
Old 08-21-2016, 05:50 AM
HORSEHEAVEN HORSEHEAVEN is offline
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Post Late with a solution that works...

The information in this thread was invaluable, both in confirming the suspected issue and in helping me devise a fix for it.

Like so many here, I really did NOT feel the need to remove the intake (nor the engine, transmission, or cab...) to get at that darnned CMCV hose that worked its way off. Every vacuum fitting on the whole vehicle has redundant barbs, clips, retainers, clip retainers, retainer clips, retainer clip retainers, clamps or what-have-you. Except... this one tapered little plastic nipple that is 8 inches down behind the line of sight, where the intake is mashed into the firewall insulation. I could hear it whistling Dixie down there, and, sure enough, the little rubber elbow (with two plastic hoses and a cap to nowhere) was loose.

It took me a couple days of staring a hole through the intake, but I found a reasonably direct way to get the hose/elbow back onto the manifold protuberance.

Just like the one in the pictures, mine was oily and dirty, and maybe a little bit swollen from the oil and heat. From verifying the vacuum leak location, I had gotten enough starting ether in that vicinity that some of it must have cleaned up the nipple a bit. Maybe. I pulled both of the accessible plastic line ends loose and removed the assembly with the elbow so I could clean it well. Using a new one might be good advise if your rubber elbow is really soft - mine wasn't too bad.

What is needed is a 8 or 9 inch piece of really stiff metal dowel - or some decent facsimile. Round wasn't ideal, but I didn't have a piece of 1/4" Titanium T-rail, so I used some scrap of 3/16" round spring steel I found. As best you can, jam the end of the dowel down in between where the two tubes and the capped third one are sealed into the rubber elbow. Using some Right-Stuff to glue it there would help, but I didn't. Use about 10 zip-ties to bundle the two tubes and the dowel together so you have a way to guide and control the elbow way down there where you can't see it.

Leave the two small ribbed tube-ends loose until last, since they are easy to route and connect. With the elbow clean, I used a Q-Tip to coat the inside of it with Right-Stuff, so that once it's on the nipple, it will STAY there. Throw a moving blanket or your favorite kind of padding down over the passenger side of the engine bay, and pad the top of the bumper where the knife-edge wants to remove your knee-caps while you're kneeling on it. A brick wall to plant your feet against might help if you have it handy. Lay down on the (hopefully cool) engine so you have good access to the crevice where the two tubes have to go.

My '04 F150 SCrew HAS the rubber flap insulator (or general hand and tool impediment) like the pre-mid-'05s seem to. The tubes go behind (relative to the truck's construction, where toward the bug-covered end is the front) the rubber flap. Way down there, at the very limit of where my long skinny fingers could reach, is the passenger-side intake gate control rod, and the tubes go in FRONT of that, between it and the intake. You'll have to twist the elbow sideways to get it through there.

The tube coming from the driver's side is below the line of sight, but the part number flag sticks up in view. The tube from the passenger side sticks up higher, just like in the pics earlier in this thread. Using those rough dimensions, place the elbow in your 'best-guess' location near the offending nipple.

HERE'S THE GOOD PART:
Since you're all comfy in this face-down, butt-in-the-air, knees on the bumper-cover knife-edge-so-they-can't-slip-off position; have your helper START THE ENGINE. Yes, you'll want to assure that your blanket or pad isn't near any of the whirling parts, but they are actually pretty safely tucked away under the intake duct, upper radiator hose, and fan shroud. My blanket didn't get even close to dangerous moving things.

With the engine running like spit - that's how you knew the hose was off, remember? - it might stall, so just restart if it does. Listen to the hissing sound of the vacuum leak as you use the dowel to move the rubber elbow around down in the abyss. Hopefully, you found a way to clock it aiming forward - this was why the round dowel wasn't great. But even with the round dowel, as I heard the vacuum leak stop-up, I could tell by the feel when the open side of the elbow was trying to catch on the nipple. It took me three or four tries, but I quite easily got the elbow onto the nipple, and was then able to push the elbow all the way onto the nipple, using the back of my hand on the firewall and my finger tips on the dowel and tube bundle.

It was REALLY OBVIOUS when the elbow closed the vacuum leak. The idle dropped and smoothed out immediately, and the hissing noise cut-out. The first few tries it came loose too easily, so was either pointed off to the side or missed high or low. I had to slide it from (the truck's) left to right to get the elbow opening to catch the nipple, because with the round dowel, the rubber elbow was trying to point to the right instead of forward. Once it hit the nipple, though, it rotated into the proper position and slid on smoothly with the Right-Stuff lubricating it. My hope, and I am NOT going to test it, is that it is now glued in place for life.

I left the dowel there. I wasn't about to risk pulling the elbow loose again trying to free it, and if it ever comes loose again I'll have the way to fix it 'at my fingertips'... Pun intended.

So, if you are reading this thread trying to find a short-cut, here's mine. If you know of a way to get this information better placed on the forum, please do, with my blessings. Best of luck.
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