stupid K&N air filter question
#16
Damn Clay - your are faster than me......
This is a good sign......but don't mess around. Do it right the first time or else it will cost you more down the road.
The 6637, Ford AIS, AFE, & S&B will leave the intake tube cleaner than that
This is a good sign......but don't mess around. Do it right the first time or else it will cost you more down the road.
The 6637, Ford AIS, AFE, & S&B will leave the intake tube cleaner than that
#19
#20
If it were me I would sell it on eBay and save towards a DP and maybe an AutoEnginuity in the future.
Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity
Riffraff Diesel: DP Tuner
#21
do you have the stock air box with the K&N rectangle filter or the K&N round filter? I think everyone might be thinking you have the stock air box, and with that the lid dosnt seal good and thats why it lets dust through past the filter. if you have the round filter then that seals alot better and you should have no problems. The 6637 filter does provide more protection then the K&N but you should be fine for now.
#23
[quote=66ca;9915819]yea, mine is that round air filter that is clamped on the end of the pipe[/quote
I would clean it real good, no high press water let it air dry for 24 hrs apply light coat of oil and let it sit for 20 min and reapply oil ONLY where you see white spots on the filter. DO NOT OVER OIL
I would clean it real good, no high press water let it air dry for 24 hrs apply light coat of oil and let it sit for 20 min and reapply oil ONLY where you see white spots on the filter. DO NOT OVER OIL
#25
Quick piggyback question
When I bought my truck it had a full AirRaid intake setup installed, and that is what I've been running for the 10K miles I've had her.
Any issues with the AirRaid dusting the turbo like the K&N (which I had problems with in cars oiling up my Mass Airflow Sensor on an old VR6)?
I have a K&N cleaning kit and I will clean the AirRaid in the spring, but from a performance standpoint is there any advantage to the 6637 vs. the AirRaid?
Any issues with the AirRaid dusting the turbo like the K&N (which I had problems with in cars oiling up my Mass Airflow Sensor on an old VR6)?
I have a K&N cleaning kit and I will clean the AirRaid in the spring, but from a performance standpoint is there any advantage to the 6637 vs. the AirRaid?
#26
The round type seals much better then the drop in type. There have been many reports about the drop in K&N not sealing well on the factory air box and allows dirty air past. This is actually true with any type of drop in filter. I've seen many many factory type air boxes with warped or cracked lids and they allow unfiltered air directly to the turbo. I suppose the lids can warp over time, especially in the Southwest where the summers are brutal but the issue could also be caused by aftermarket drop in filters (even the paper kind) if their sealing rim is too thick or too thin etc.
If you checked your intake tube and didn't find any dust residue then your filter is working fine. Clean and oil it and you are good to go. FYI...the K&N cleaner is just regular ole 409 so you can save some money by using that stuff instead.
I don't really understand all the warnings about ensuring you don't over-oil the filter. If these engines had a mass airflow sensor then I would understand but they don't so I wouldn't be too stingy with the oil.
I went 8588 miles on my last oil change and the oil analysis showed only 6ppm of silicon, so my filter seems to be working fine as well. Our work trucks average around 9-13 ppm on the stock type Motorcraft (in case you are curious...). I clean my filter every oil change because these engines do consume a ton of air so you really need to keep it clean. This is really the best reason to upgrade to a 6637 style (because they last quite a while compared to cleaning and re-oiling all the time....)
Just my $0.02...
Lastly,
If your turbo wheel looks like this, then you are good and don't really need to change anything. This is over 200k with a K&N, in the desert. You can still see the ink stamp on the blade when it was balanced...
If you checked your intake tube and didn't find any dust residue then your filter is working fine. Clean and oil it and you are good to go. FYI...the K&N cleaner is just regular ole 409 so you can save some money by using that stuff instead.
I don't really understand all the warnings about ensuring you don't over-oil the filter. If these engines had a mass airflow sensor then I would understand but they don't so I wouldn't be too stingy with the oil.
I went 8588 miles on my last oil change and the oil analysis showed only 6ppm of silicon, so my filter seems to be working fine as well. Our work trucks average around 9-13 ppm on the stock type Motorcraft (in case you are curious...). I clean my filter every oil change because these engines do consume a ton of air so you really need to keep it clean. This is really the best reason to upgrade to a 6637 style (because they last quite a while compared to cleaning and re-oiling all the time....)
Just my $0.02...
Lastly,
If your turbo wheel looks like this, then you are good and don't really need to change anything. This is over 200k with a K&N, in the desert. You can still see the ink stamp on the blade when it was balanced...
#27
no, i didnt just buy the filter....i just bought the truck. And it was already on there.
I just spent over 100 today buying oil and a filter...and i either have to buy a new GPR tomorrow or new GP's to fix the cold start problem.
Can i not run this filter for a little bit til i can get another one? By the looks of it, the guy before me has had it on there a while. Pretty filthy.
I just spent over 100 today buying oil and a filter...and i either have to buy a new GPR tomorrow or new GP's to fix the cold start problem.
Can i not run this filter for a little bit til i can get another one? By the looks of it, the guy before me has had it on there a while. Pretty filthy.
Back up here.... you said that it had a K%N filter in it? And now you just said that you bought a Filter? The K&N FILTER is A For LIFE Filter. Meaning that there is a cleaning Kit and you can clean you 'Filter' over and over again with out buying a new one. The 'Manuel' says these filters are good for 1000,000 mile Before you need to CLEAN them again... the manuel says 'the dirter they get the better they work. I have a K&N and I have clean it about 3 times in the last 90,000 miles, but I only drive on hard roads, not dusty roads. Take your 'new' filter back if you have not thrown away your older one and clean your older one with a K&N cleaning kit. Buy a cover from Riff-Raff or Petes Covers to keep it a little more clean and purty.
As for the SuperChip. Hook it up and see what 'Mode' that you have it programmed in. Your 'programmer' has your 'stock' mode in it and you should put it back in 'stock' mod if you ever take it to a mechanic and there is a p[ossiablility that it may get 'flashed. My SuperChip has three other 'modes' built into it. "High Proformance' and two different 'trailer pull Modes'.
#28
do you have the stock air box with the K&N rectangle filter or the K&N round filter? I think everyone might be thinking you have the stock air box, and with that the lid dosnt seal good and thats why it lets dust through past the filter. if you have the round filter then that seals alot better and you should have no problems. The 6637 filter does provide more protection then the K&N but you should be fine for now.
The round type seals much better then the drop in type. There have been many reports about the drop in K&N not sealing well on the factory air box and allows dirty air past. This is actually true with any type of drop in filter. I've seen many many factory type air boxes with warped or cracked lids and they allow unfiltered air directly to the turbo. I suppose the lids can warp over time, especially in the Southwest where the summers are brutal but the issue could also be caused by aftermarket drop in filters (even the paper kind) if their sealing rim is too thick or too thin etc. .............
#29
I bought the K & N filter charger kit for my truck several years ago... before I found and joined the brotherhood. Since then I found out that K & N filters aren't prefered for our beloved 7.3 Talk about being careful and checking to see if it's letting any dust through. I clean and re-oil my filter two or three times a year. And I'm only averaging 10K per year 95% hard roads. I've been checking down the tube and inspecting for dust and haven't seen so much as anything in there.
I am planning on getting a pre-filter cover as soon as I can spring for a few extra bucks.
If I had it to do all over again I would most likely buy an AFE or other system but I've got the K & N and it seems to be working just great for my application.
I would think that you would be able to run your K & N until you're ready to make a switch if you choose. Then put that sucker on ebay to recoup some of your cash outlay.
I am planning on getting a pre-filter cover as soon as I can spring for a few extra bucks.
If I had it to do all over again I would most likely buy an AFE or other system but I've got the K & N and it seems to be working just great for my application.
I would think that you would be able to run your K & N until you're ready to make a switch if you choose. Then put that sucker on ebay to recoup some of your cash outlay.
#30
If you already have that clamp on K&N filter, I'd personally keep it. Clean it, oil it, and reuse it. BUT, I would also put a pre filter over it if I kept it. If you aren't willing to use a prefilter then make a 6637 fit. K&N makes them, and maybe Pete has a pre-filter in the size you need.