I'm installing new pads on the front discs and just discovered that somewhere in the last 30 years someone didn't put the anti-rattle clips back. Do you guys use them or not when you replace the pads?

Guess I'll go on to the rear brakes awa the park/emergency brake (which doesn't work) until you let me know. And, I'll have to go out for the springs if they are needed, which is an undertaking in snow-bound Okiehoma.

 

Yes I use them because why not use something that comes with the brake pads. Does it make a difference... well, I don't know, I've never gone without them.

 

I use those clips, cause nothing is more irritating than rattling brake pads. I also go one step further by "adjusting" the ears on the outer pads to fit tightly on the calipers. The outer ears can be bent down by setting the pad on something fairly solid, and lightly tapping the ears with a hammer. Makes a world of difference in the rattling pad dept....

 

Ok, 2 out of 2 of the most knowledgeable guys out there can't be wrong. O'Reilly's has the clips for a whole buck fifty so I guess I'm gonna make a run at the snow drift tomorrow and get them. And, I'll explore the hammer-adjustable approach on the ears as well.

Either of you, or anyone else for that matter, have any suggestions on preparing the calipers and brackets such that the calipers will slide? Mine were FROZEN, and it didn't have anything to do w/the -5 it is to get to tonight. Truck sat for years and the calipers did as well when I drove it. Took a lot of beating to get the lock key out.

I've cleaned the mating surfaces with a file awa a wire brush, taken the edges off the corners, and have CRC's synthetic brake grease ready to hit them with. But, any other ideas? The FSM doesn't even say they should be lubed, but.....

 

I used anti-seize on mine. You'll find some guys who will say only use the brake grease on the slides but I have yet to have any problems with anti-seize.

 

Clean the heck out of the sliders and mating surfaces, and use the grease. That's about all you can do. Just be sure to use these at both ends of the calipers.

 

Well, anti-seize is my best friend as I put basically everything back on with it so's I can get it off next time. In fact, alloy wheels go on with it on the nut/wheel interface (not on the threads) and that has dramatically cut the brake pulse on my wife's Subie.

But, since I have the actual brake grease I think I'll use it on the pickup's calipers. And, everything is spotless. Or, maybe I should say rustless, as I've cleaned it seriously.

 

Sorry guys, but one more question: The FSM shows one anti-rattle clip per pad, but O'Reilly's computer shows two. Which is right? (I'm betting on the FSM, but...)

 

I've never seen 2 on one pad. Just one, placed on the lower ear of the inner pad.
Their book/computer is a bit vague on some things. There are 2 per vehicle, and since they tend to package them in pairs, the counter monkey's will try to sell you 2 packages.
BTW, I used to work at O'rielly. I know too well just how dumb some of their counter monkeys can be.......

Trust the FSM, as is your instinct.

 

OK, I use the caliper grease on the slides and any other surface that touches and slides, I use the anti-seize on the threaded surfaces and put the anti-rattle clips at the top of the inside pads. I hope that helps.
Almost forgot, there are only two clips, one per side.

 

Thanks! I trust the FSM almost completely. But, other books seem to be fraught with problems. My first experience w/that was rebuilding my brother's 900 Kawasaki back in the 70's. Chilton or Clymer's gave me a torque spec for the cam bearings that didn't "feel" right. Got an FSM and the actual spec was 1/2 of that.

As for O'Reilly's, we are blessed her as most of the guys are very sharp. Maybe because I'm there seemingly most days w/this truck so they know me on a first-name basis, but they'll tell me when they don't know. (I think it is ok to not know, but to not know and not know you don't know is a serious problem.)

 

I put the clip on the lower ear. Here's why.
The clip has a spring action to hold the pad against the opposite side of the bracket. Stepping on the brakes while driving forward, the rotational force of the rotor will attempt to push the pad against the upper side of the bracket. If it's already there, there's no where for it go. Plus, how many times will that spring action stand up to the massive force of a hard stop, before losing tension? I don't know, and don't want to find out.
Yes, applying the brakes while backing up puts a bit of pressure against the spring tab, but just how hard do you hit the brakes while backing up?

 

I will dig some info out of my shop manual when I get home...if I can remember to do so. I am almost 100% positive that it should be on the top (but I could be mistaken).

 

Some of the O'rielly's stores are equipped with good guys. When I go to the local location, I go in with part numbers already written down. I give them a chance to find the right parts, before I start throwing out numbers. Manager knows me, and gets a kick outta me "Schoolin" the rookies.....

 

I'm not saying you are incorrect, or that the FSM doesn't say to put it on the upper ear. Just saying that, in my (sometimes over-analitical) mind the lower ear seems to be a better suited location.