I'm out of town, but when I get home I'll see if I can upload it from the DVD.

 

Can't believe I haven't seen this before. I'll be ordering parts tonite. '02 E-350 with 350k miles, this is long overdue.

Thanks Andrew for the legwork. I'm going to post the pics mentioned earlier since they've never been on the thread.

 

As of Aug 2010 these are Ford's part numbers for this addition:

F2UZ-3E652A Bracket $53.90 (OEM List Price)
F2UZ-3E652B Bracket $80.22 (OEM List Price)
F7UZ-3E651AB Damper $60.62 (NAPA Monroe # SC2955 #35.59)

If these numbers have been superceded or changed they'll still get you the correct parts.

Also worth mentioning is the two U Bolts holding the bracket to the drag link are included with that bracket so don't make the mistake of ordering them too. Here's that number:

F2UZ-3W652A U Bolts $15.00 (2 req'd @ $15.00 ea)


I like the idea of running the proper tap into the frame first----should hold the bracket in place just fine. I had thought to use something like a slotted body or "shorty" style Rivet Nut but the tap is much much more simple.

 

Thanks JWA. I used those numbers from your earlier post on Ed the Parts Guy's site, still working. Total for two brackets was around $108 shipped. The Monroe damper is on Amazon for $23.

 

Does anyone know the thread & size of the bolts that come with the frame bracket?

EDIT - Ford M10x1.5 x 25mm bolts per E350John's earlier post.

 

I'm not sure if those bolts come with the frame brackets---IIRC they were a bit expensive and had to be ordered separately anyway?

One of the posts said using a 5/16" works with existing holes if you'll be using nuts and washers. If tapping the frame holes an M10 or 3/8" bolt would probably do the trick.

If I'm wrong here someone please correct me----going from memory!

 

Measured the pre-drilled holes in the frame rail yesterday, 11/32's drill bit fits thru there. Best I can figure that's a 7/16's tap. I only have two bolt holes drilled - that sound right?

 

Look further back in this thread and you should see where I listed everything including the metric bolts that come with the bracket.
I'm working on another mod that solves lots of bushing and steering issues. The redesigned front suspension from a 2010 van bolts right up. The 4x4 (new van) conversion guys sell these cheap, including the bigger brakes, etc. I will post a separate thread as it gets installed.

 

Got it - M10x1.5 - now I'll see if I have that tap, which I probably don't since it's always the one you don't have...

Keep us posted on the 2010 front end, totally interested. In fact start posting a build log so we can follow it.

And having just replaced shocks x4 I can relate to your comment about the ridiculous top bolt location - what where they thinking?

 

John thanks for the clarification!

I'd also be interested in your steering/front end mod------have an overview of what it will entail and correct on existing E Vans?

 

JWA,

The 2010 front suspension redesign solved the ball joint/bushing/tracking issues. I got a look at the parts over at Quadvan in Portland on Friday. I stopped-in to talk about rear traction, and ended up learning more about front suspension. The ball joints, rotors, and calipers are bigger, pads are enormous, but best of all, the I-beam bushings are a massive pin & sleeve design, and the radius arm and radius arm bushing are a vast improvement over the old design. It also includes all of the steering linkage. The setup I looked at is from a zero miles 2010 van being converted to 4WD. I'm paying $300 for the (all-new) assembly and $300 for labor. That's $600, or the price of ball joint replacement. It bolts-on identically to the old suspension, and I'm adding the Maxlift 2" leveling spacers during the install.

In the same visit, we checked my Dana 60 rear end, and the 35 spline axles will fit through the spindles. They will be universal length, long spline, cut to fit, and will allow me to install an Eaton Truetrac in a Dana 60 32 spline rear end, along with 4.10 gears.

 

Thanks John-----that certainly sounds like an interesting upgrade. A question whether the larger rotors and calipers affect the ABS or change how the proportioning of the brake system? Nothing beats a bit more beef up front though. $600 labor for all those parts installed is just insanely great----a no brainer when done by pros------good on ya for finding that deal!

My high mileage E250 has had the front end rebuilt including urethane radius arm and axle pivot bushings along with a Hellwig HD sway bar, Bilstein shocks, new coil springs---everything except the steering box at the moment. These sorts of upgrades make quite a noticeable difference---I can only imagine how more solid your E350 will feel now.


<O</OAre you running a V10 or pull a lot-------why the need for the 4:10 gear?<O</O

 

I tow several construction trailers. I'm also going up in tire size to a 31.5" tire. One more inch (32.5) and it would be a wash. So it will only be marginally lower and my speedo will be off a bit.

 

for the older vans ,I have a 1991 econoline and I bought a kit from O'Reillys auto parts that bolts to the frame and uses u bolts and a plate to attach to the drag link, works like the factory ford one in previous pics basically! Its a monroe gas magnum-steering damper kit part number sa1930 made a difference on my van especially in strong cross winds!

 

Would you have any pics? I am tempted to do this to my '93. It does look like I have the factory bolt hole locations, so might go with the Ford bracket too. Brew