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1968-2013 Full Size Vans Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

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  #331  
Old 07-04-2014, 09:41 AM
coolfeet coolfeet is offline
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is the stabilizer worth the money?

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Originally Posted by JWA View Post
First thing would be making us understand what you mean by having bad handling issues. There are many, many aspects to this so the cure depends on what exactly is the problem.

Throwing money at a perceived problem only to have it not work as expected can be frustrating and costly, needless to say. Sometimes the problem is as simple as shocks or tire type and/or pressure, other times it goes as far as needing new springs.
I was having handling problems too. I immediately replaced the shocks and worn out tires. This was a huge improvement. I installed KYB gas adjust and Michelin LTX tires. Next, I looked at the front end and had everything replaced that was worn out. Then I had the alignment done.

I was still having "handling" problems when I applied the breaks. One mechanic said this would be cured by a professional alignment which it did not. The problem was worn out front brake calipers! I replaced the front calipers and the pads-should have done the rotors as my breaks just started to pulse.

My van was really driving nice. Since I did most of the work on my van with the exception of the rebuilding the worn out parts on the front end, I decided to spend the $100 and change on the steering stabilizer kit.

It may be only a placebo effect. I have no metrics to prove that it handles better. I changed so many parts on the van. The biggest noticable improvement were the Michelin tires followed by the KYB shocks. That bill was over $600.

I replaced the rear brake shoes and drums. This improved braking on down hills as my shoes were cracked.

As JWA said, don't throw money at perceived problems until you know what is wrong. I replaced everything that was worn out. I went the cheapest route possible-I even asked America's Tires if they would take my old tires on trade in to avoid the environmental disposal fee. I got $50 trade and saved over $12 on the disposal fee. I got another $70 rebate and they honored Costco's price to boot! Tires cost $400 out the door.

At the end of the day, the stabilizer is probably a good idea. Ford installs them on the ambulance package for good reasons.
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  #332  
Old 07-06-2014, 01:00 AM
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genscripter genscripter is offline
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When installing a steering stabilizer kit, why not thru-bolt the mounts?

I've been reading up on the few tutorials on this steering kit installation, and I'm wondering why everyone is tapping the threads on the mounting holes, instead of thru-bolting them? I would trust a thru-bolt more than some shoddy threads.
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1988 Ford E250 Club Wagon | 7.3 IDI + Hypermax Van Turbo Kit | C6+GVOD w/ MaxOD Deep Sump & Electric Temp Probe | Wrapped Pipes & Turbo w/ Auber Instrument EGT/Boost Gauge | 4" Dia. Alum Driveshaft | 4.10 Gears | 32-gal Custom Alum fuel tank w/ Centroid sending unit | NAPA Coolant Filter | Michelin LRR 16" treads | Chrome Warn Winch Bumper | 115W PV Array | Brass Heatercore shutoff valves | Aftermarket Steering Stabilizer | Synthetic Lube all-around.
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  #333  
Old 07-06-2014, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by genscripter View Post
I've been reading up on the few tutorials on this steering kit installation, and I'm wondering why everyone is tapping the threads on the mounting holes, instead of thru-bolting them? I would trust a thru-bolt more than some shoddy threads.
Your question raises a few others...........

-Have you yourself yet done this install?

-What extraordinary forces are at play that you imagine might require through bolts?

-Why is it assumed our tapped holes are somehow "shoddy"?

-Why does Ford use thread forming screws for this installation when they add this to a chassis? (FWIW the spare tire under mount is held in place with those type screws.)

-Has anyone's tapped holes failed so far?

Fact is the frame mounted bracket could be safely held in place with just two 5/16" or 3/8" bolts, both in the vertical plane, grade #2 at that. I suppose it could be argued welding the frame bracket makes more sense?

As an aside most likely Ford uses three fasteners more for proper location and parts alignment during manufacturing rather than any safety concern.

Reading those posts where through bolts are used---such as Andrew's original post for example---show the process of placing and holding them while securing nuts is a bit of a hassle. Properly tapping the existing holes requires only the simple process of installing and tightening one bolt per hole, lock washer or Loc-Tite optional.

In the end this becomes nothing more than a personal choice, no one way is better or less safe than the other---assuming things are done properly. I believe anyone who'd tap such holes understands how to do it competently so I wouldn't be a bit scared of their installation.

Does that answer the question?
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  #334  
Old 07-06-2014, 07:41 AM
jack orchard jack orchard is offline
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Self Tappers

I used the OEM Ford self- tapping bolts. Quite pleased with the results.,...jack
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  #335  
Old 07-06-2014, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
Your question raises a few others...........

-Have you yourself yet done this install?

-What extraordinary forces are at play that you imagine might require through bolts?

-Why is it assumed our tapped holes are somehow "shoddy"?

-Why does Ford use thread forming screws for this installation when they add this to a chassis? (FWIW the spare tire under mount is held in place with those type screws.)


-Has anyone's tapped holes failed so far?

Fact is the frame mounted bracket could be safely held in place with just two 5/16" or 3/8" bolts, both in the vertical plane, grade #2 at that. I suppose it could be argued welding the frame bracket makes more sense?

As an aside most likely Ford uses three fasteners more for proper location and parts alignment during manufacturing rather than any safety concern.

Reading those posts where through bolts are used---such as Andrew's original post for example---show the process of placing and holding them while securing nuts is a bit of a hassle. Properly tapping the existing holes requires only the simple process of installing and tightening one bolt per hole, lock washer or Loc-Tite optional.

In the end this becomes nothing more than a personal choice, no one way is better or less safe than the other---assuming things are done properly. I believe anyone who'd tap such holes understands how to do it competently so I wouldn't be a bit scared of their installation.

Does that answer the question?
THere is a thread on this forum that details the installation of this steering stabilizer, and the OP tapped the threads and put a pry-bar on it to test them. They ripped out. So he tapped them to the next biggest size. Those held. Made me think using a thru bolt with a locking nut and/or compression washer would be a simpler, faster, stronger, easier, and less worrisome solution.

No, I didn't do this install yet. I'm posting an idea to bounce it off the good people of the forum before I do it. I have to say, I feel a little like I got my head bit off for an innocent suggestion.
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1988 Ford E250 Club Wagon | 7.3 IDI + Hypermax Van Turbo Kit | C6+GVOD w/ MaxOD Deep Sump & Electric Temp Probe | Wrapped Pipes & Turbo w/ Auber Instrument EGT/Boost Gauge | 4" Dia. Alum Driveshaft | 4.10 Gears | 32-gal Custom Alum fuel tank w/ Centroid sending unit | NAPA Coolant Filter | Michelin LRR 16" treads | Chrome Warn Winch Bumper | 115W PV Array | Brass Heatercore shutoff valves | Aftermarket Steering Stabilizer | Synthetic Lube all-around.
1998 Jetta TDI.
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  #336  
Old 07-07-2014, 06:19 AM
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Sorry you feel that way, I was simply replying to a question with my own experience having done this installation as well as having read this thread from its first posting Feb of 2011.

One incident where something fails for unknown reasons hardly makes the concept suspect of not working. We simply don't know how the ripped out threads were formed but a quick guess would be the tap used didn't give enough thread engagement. The frame sections at that point are more than substantial enough to form suitable threaded holes for mounting something suspension related, for example the sway bar brackets.
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:19 AM
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