Hey guys
I got a 1991 f-250 w/ the 7.3L and a 5speed standard shift trans.
I got a dana 60 rear. and i right now have a open diff. i was looking into posi and lockers and cant decide what to get.
Im looking into the lockright lunch box lockers and seem they are good.
I also had the power lock in a couple International scouts i've had over the years 66, and a 65 scout.
And even though they where old. they still locked up very very good and were not bad on road.
I want something that will somehow lock up when needed like how the powerlock did. but the Lock right say's it will give most power to the tire with most traction. is that true?
The power lock i know is heavy duty and is very strong.
What's all ya'lls in put on it.?

 

Are you sure it's a D60? More likely it's a Sterling 10.25. I wouldn't put a "lunch box" locker behind a diesel 5 speed.

 

hmm it could me a sterling 10.25" i thought they put those behind the f-350.
Isnt the d-60 ring gear like 9.5" or so?
but mine did have alot of bolts for the cover. there a difference i can tell?

 

oh also when i changed out the gear oil it did take about 3.5-4 quarts to fill it.

 

250's and 350's both got the 10.25 sometime in the 80's. Google pics of both-the difference is easy to tell. The 10.25 axle is a good one, but much less aftermarket diffs to choose from.

 

okay. well the fill plug was on the housing not the DIFF cover like on a dana 44. is that a difference?

 

okay i looked and i got the Sterling 10.25" Axle.

 

I have the Sterling 10.25" Axle also. I looked into what you are trying, even contacted some companies. Not a lot of options. Why do you want to lock them? I have beaten the dog-snot out of mine...plowing, off road, hunting, towing and it has been a rock solid rear-end.

I looked into limited slip too....just decided to stay w/ the factory build...

 

Well i found out i have a factory limited slip. i thought it was open but what i guess is a track lock. Which is not my favourite thing but i guess better then nothing.
I just want something with a little better traction. but i've had the truck for only a month so i might keep it how it is then go from there.

 

Just a thought.

I plow with mine (97 F250 5.8, old body style). Grip is greatly enhanced with good (really good) tires (for what you are doing) and weight in the bed. I put 10 50lb bags of sand in my bed above the axle for the winter. I live in CT and we are getting hammered this year. Right now we are in a ice/snow storm and my son is out plowing. I never have any issues. I actually look at the factory limited slip as a safety valve. If my tire is spinning, I am past the point of pushing a reasonable load. I would rather spin a tire then destroy a tranny every winter.

Not sure what you need grip for, but the right tires and ~500lbs or so make a huge , I mean huge difference. Do some research as to what tire meets your needs too, not just what looks cool. I never skimp on tires, they are the only things keeping me from killing a smart car sometimes. I may loose a gallon or so MPG with the added weight, but I can care less. It's a truck, not a Honda.

Hope this helped a little...

 

That's true. i might be better off looking into some tires. right now i got some street tires on and i actually went pretty good in the snow. to the point to where i buried it.
I was looking into some Hankook MT's those seem like they'd do very well. on another f250 we had with a '97 351 and A/T we had some toyo MT's and that thing did alright too. right now the truck is my daily driver/ weekend wheeler so i dont plan on doing anything soo crazy. i want something that's good on road and off so a mud tire that doesn't wear too fast.

 

The factory Trac-Lok diff is setup to provide very little additional grip from the factory because most people want it to be smooth and also to minimize tire wear. But you can get near locker perofrmance out of it by simply restacking the clutch packs so the friction and pressure plates alternate instead if the factory setup, I have done this on all my trucks with great results and the kicker is it can be done for little or no money depending where you source the extra friction plates needed... new or from a junkyard/spare diff.