the test I described was to test signal to the sensor not from it sorry didn't have a chart to compare sensor return signal. My Bad.

 

I used a spark tester with adjustable gap to check for spark. I didn't open it very far,I will try it again next time I am able to work on it,18 inches of snow on the ground now and temps in the single digits. If I am supposed to have 1/2 inch at the coil,how much am I supposed to have at the spark plug? is a noid light the only way i can tell if the injectors are firing?

 

Oscilloscope would work. A DVM meter that also reads frequency will also tell you if the injectors are being told to pulse off/on.

 

Should be able to jump the spark close to the same from the plug wire.

 

I just pull a plug wire, stick a long insulated screw driver into the boot and then hold the side of the screwdriver close to a ground while someone turns the vehicle over....should jump the gap to ground if you are getting a good spark. Motor only needs compression, fuel, air, and spark at the right time to fire. I would say you have a spark issue if starter fluid does not start your truck, or attempt to start your truck, unless you have like 0 compression in all cylinders. Have you checked any codes?

Here is a REALLY good checklist for an EFI no start. Was written for the 5.0 crowd, but pretty much applies to our trucks as well.

How to Solve an EFI No Start

 

You said the spark plugs smelled like gas, Good chance they fouled out and with weak spark thats a possablity.

Take all spark plugs out, disable the fuel pump(impact switch is good for that) so when cranking engine you don't flood the engine again, pull off the TFI connector so spark won't happen(see below). Spin engine over few times and watch to see what blows out, a really flooded engine with spout out the left over fuel(make sure no sparks near by). Go wide open throttle too during cranking, that should clear anything left in the intake manifold.

After engine clears that test. rehook the TFI back up and put new spark plugs into the plug wires and place them so they are all visiable at the spark gap. Usually dusk is better to watch the spark gaps. Watch plugs and if all are sparking, reinstall the plugs and wires. Then try some starting fluid to see if it fires off on it. If it does fire off on starting fluid, then reset the fuel impact switch to get the fuel pumps running and try starting the engine. Hopefully this will get it running.

I did this on my 89 F250 when it flooded out on my Wife, not sure what happened to cause the flooding.

 

Pressing the throttle to the floor cuts the injectors and no fuel will flow...do this as you turn the car over and it should clear out fuel. You can pull a fuse or relay and diable pumps if necessary, much easier than getting behind the kick panel. I would follow the steps of my link....it's very good information.

 

thanks for the new ideas guys,hopefully be able to work on it later today,temps supposed to be in the low 20's....heat wave!!! LOL

 

May help may not but I had a inline six would only start with either. Happend in winter but on warm dys it would start after a couple cranks. Cant remember what the sensor was but it had to do with the air temp on start up. Was efi wanna say its basically a chocke sensor

 

It was asked already, but is she throwing any codes? That should be your next step for sure.

 

no codes,1st thing i did was check for codes when the tow truck driver put the truck in my driveway,and have checked a couple times since then.

 

Ok,worked on it for a few mins tonight to check spark in the dark. I also tried starting fluid,still no start there. There is good spark at the coil,it jumps a 1/2 inch gap on the spark tester. At the spark plug is where the problem is. I got very little spark,wouldn't even jump a 1/4 inch gap and was very weak and orange looking. what would cause that?

 

Bad plug wires or faulty rotor and distributor cap would be my guess. If you have that type of spark at the coil, there is breakdown somewhere between there and the plug.

 

When my MAP sensor failed the truck would start but not idle or run very well. Codes were set for a lean mixture but nothing for the sensor itself. When I disconnected the vac line from the MAP sensor the engine would run better and idle and a code was set for the MAP sensor. I replaced the sensor with a JY part and it ran great.
Check your wires, especially the coil to cap wire, with an ohm meter and see what you get. The cap and rotor could be gone but its usually visible with burn marks, cracks, or carbon tracks.
BTW I have an old spark plug with a ground clamp that I use to test spark. The gap is set at .050
regards
rikard

 

I agree 100%