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  #31  
Old 05-07-2011, 05:33 PM
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believe i used 2600 in the front and 2500 in the back, the proper way to run this system is to have one valve per bag, if you have one valve for lets say the two front bags, if you take a corner especially with no sway bar air will shift from one bag to the other, someone also commented on the bigger the bag the better the ride, this is correct, you`ll use more volume of air but less pressure making more of a plush ride. the bags i am using are the denominators
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  #32  
Old 05-07-2011, 10:19 PM
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Good deal! Thanks. I'm thinking if I get everything from airbaggit.com and keep it simple I should be able to bag it for less than $1000. Does that sound right?
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  #33  
Old 05-08-2011, 12:41 AM
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You actually need 8 valves for 4 bags. Inflate and deflate are separate functions not controlled by the same valve.

1 set of 4 direct air from the manifold into the bag and then the other set direct air from the manifold out of the airbag. Otherwise there's nowhere for the air to go when exhausting. It will not go back into the air tank.
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  #34  
Old 05-08-2011, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BACAGrizz View Post
You actually need 8 valves for 4 bags. Inflate and deflate are separate functions not controlled by the same valve.

1 set of 4 direct air from the manifold into the bag and then the other set direct air from the manifold out of the airbag. Otherwise there's nowhere for the air to go when exhausting. It will not go back into the air tank.
Grizz beat me to it here. you guys need eight valves, one intake and one exhaust per bag to keep air transfer from happening.

A lot of the air bag companies now sell a valve manifold that has all eight valves in one big block... makes for mounting and routing air lines a little easier. and it looks cool too.

On my isuzu in my sig, I used a 2500 series bag on the front and a 2600 series bag on the back. The reason for the smaller up front (most do this) is because of the limited amount of space between the frame rail and the spindle. Basically a diameter interfearance issue.

I run all dominator bags. I prefer the ride quality they give (personal preferance). My f100 will have the 2500 series dominator bags on all four corners. Going the smaller route for the bigger truck but I also like the ride quality of the bag when its about 85-90ish psi... at least in the isuzu we will see in the f100.
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  #35  
Old 05-08-2011, 08:28 AM
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Cool truck buddy. I does not matter how pretty they look if they will not crank up and make some pretty sounds---you have it going on---congrats
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  #36  
Old 05-08-2011, 10:16 PM
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Thanks for the comments guys. Hope you all don't mind but I ask a lot of questions

Would this basic kit cause ride problems on cornering? I don't see the 8 seperate valves like you guys recommend. Thanks for the help.

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #37  
Old 05-08-2011, 10:35 PM
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Not sure what your unit is. This is the manifold for mine:

Click the image to open in full size.

I bought the air pod from Ride Tech, Air Ride Technologies. It's completely wired and plumbed, saves about 15 hours of labor plus, it's really simple for an air ride novice like me. I got the 5 gallon version with 2 compressors because I also am using another valve for an air horn and don't want to run out of air. I also plan to put on an outlet for an air hose to pump up tires and inflatable stuff as needed.
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  #38  
Old 05-08-2011, 11:53 PM
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I dont see any valves in that pic Greg.

Grizz has a sweet valve manifold like I mentioned earlier... easy to plumb, everything in one location, looks cool...

You can also run eight individual valves which is what most do... I get my stuff from AVS or Suicidedoors.com.. both very stable long time businesses with good support and great prices.

If I may suggest.... when you get to the air supply portion of the job. You have a couple of routes to run. One, electric air compressors. Many people run multiple compressors to speed up the time the tank takes to fill. One friend of mine actually runs four electric compressors and it takes a while to fill his tanks.

I personally dont like electric compressors, too noisy, some arent reliable, very taxing on the electrical system/alternator and they can be expensive....

I run an engine driven compressor. Its a york 210 air conditioning compressor off a 80's ford van. I had to make brackets for it and find a place to mount it to the engine but it fills my tanks in less than 90 seconds. Everyone in the club is jealous it seems and I have to wait for them to fill thier tanks all the time. I pulled the york at a U-pull-it type of place a few years back for $35... besides my time for fabbing a bracket the only other thing I have in the compressor is the supply side (to the tank) hose off the head I had made in a high temp stainless braided hose (over kill) for heat reasons. That was around 75-100 dollars if I remember correctly but most people dont even do that and seem to be fine.

Back to the main subject... any of you 4.6 2v'ers do the PI head and intake swap yet? or diff heads.. diff intake? I am curious what you general power plans are? I spent the night looking at engine mounting brackets. I saw a set from Welder Series that looked nice... curious what you guys ended up doing....

Jason
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  #39  
Old 05-09-2011, 10:20 AM
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I've done some more research. In the kit pictured, the valves are on the switches. They are called paddle valves. There is a barb made into the switch. You press up, and the bag is filled with air. Press down and air is released through the barb on the switch. Drawback is air is released into cabin (I think that could be worked around) and apparently more hose routing. Honestly, if those are the only two drawbacks, then for the price I could definitely handle that. I'm only looking for something that allows me to lower when parked and raised at ride height for cruising. I don't need anything fast or anything hopping up and down .

I'm still a long way from getting to the suspension but I just like to do a lot of homework on stuff ahead of time. Thanks for everyone's help.
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  #40  
Old 05-09-2011, 11:31 AM
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ME BAD!! yeh 8 valves total, my valve is the same one pictured, one valve bank for each bag! air is not exhausted through the switch, its exhausted through a port at the rear of the valve, the only reason i went with the 2600`s in the front was because of the engine weight, figured if i put bigger bags in the front it would require a bit more air volume thus giving a better ride???i might me wrong??
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  #41  
Old 05-09-2011, 06:31 PM
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nobody hops with airbags... you're thinking of hydros... different type of suspension setup. I have five switches in my isuzu, one for front intake and exhaust, one for rear intake and exhaust, one for all all four corners intake and exhaust, one for intake and exhaust right side and one intake and exhaust for the left.... the last two are so I can lean the truck into corners when I feel frisky. You could skip the last two and just run three switches... still need eight valves though!

What you are describing is a manual valve setup... we used to use those way way back. I would bet that you will grow very tired of the manual valves as have most everyone that has run them. Manual or electric, it doesnt matter, you still need eight valves to prevent air transfer. Best to just buy eight electrics or a valve manifold as discussed above.

Gil, I think you're on the right track with the 2600s in the front. lower pressure to get the truck up off the ground and some bags ride better if they are at a lower psi. I might end up with 2600s too but want to try the 2500s on all four corners first... see how it goes.
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  #42  
Old 05-09-2011, 06:55 PM
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It's been a while since I built my suspension but here is what I got. A 50 F1 with 2500 in front and 2600 out back. I started with the sleeve bags in the rear and blew one but never really liked them anyway. The 2500 ride okay but I need to find a way to get the 2600 in there.
With a 302 and the sheet metal in the front it takes 80 psi just to get off the ground. Not even high enough to steer yet. I usually ride with 90 plus psi up front but it seems a little stiff.
As far as compressors go, I got one of both. Engine and electric. Engine is deffinately the way to go as it's quicker/quieter and has a higher psi if you want.
I also have hook ups for a schrader valve just in case compressors stop working and a quick connect for tools and such. Oh yeah, 4 switches total to control each bag.
Sorry so long just more insight on a running 50 with bags.
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  #43  
Old 05-09-2011, 07:07 PM
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very nice metal work...great to see a person, pick all the way to good metal and get all the rot out...tough work but pays off dearly...nice!
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  #44  
Old 05-09-2011, 07:56 PM
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Thanks everyone!


Quote:
Originally Posted by SunDown View Post
........ Best to just buy eight electrics or a valve manifold as discussed above.

I see what you're saying SunDown, guess I'll just have to spend a few more pennies when the time comes.


Here's a little more progress.

I tried to use a radiator support from a '56 but I was only able to use the sides with my radiator. I got some channel and formed the bottom.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here it is sandblasted and all the unnecessary holes filled.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #45  
Old 05-09-2011, 09:50 PM
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nice to see you using other pieces from other trucks and making it your own and not just a new fangled support...very cool build...
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:50 PM
 
 
 
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