Lol, the jury is still out on this mod for me. I don't understand all of the consequences yet.

 

Ok, Lots of discussion, questions, etc... I'm not debating the mod, just supplying information as to what I did. As noted above I do have enigne oil vapor present with engine running that you can smell and see with flashlight - note my engine only has 150 miles so rings are probably not seated fully.

*** Disclaimer: This is a what's needed and how to only post...proceed at your own discretion.

Here is my final modification (the electrical tape thing bugged me...so lets do this right).

1st Photo - CCV Tube Removed (note: Left side is what connects to intake manifold. Right side connects to the CCV Seperator box on top of engine valve cover. Both intake and CCV Seperator nipples have barbs so the cap and new hose will not come off with hose clamp snugged down). I did verify that the harness connector on the CCV tube is just a plastic tab and has no terminals. I tucked the CCV harness into the harness to left of secondary fuel filter.

2nd Photo - parts needed (Local Ace Hardware)
-~4.5' Drain Hose 1" ID ACE# 41122 (I bought 6' and cut almost 2' off)
- 2 1.25" to 1.75" ID hose clamps (just find the right fit)
- 1 Poly Coupler 1.25" X 1.00" PLXPL ACE# 43167
- 1 Flexible Coupler 1.25" X 1.25" ACD# 44621
- 1 Rubber Stool Cap ACE# 51242

3rd Photo - CCV Rerouted to front of engine bay exiting in front of inside frame by sway bar clamp.
1. Remove CCV hose from seperator and intake.
2. Attach rubber stool cap with hose clamp to intake CCV nipple.
3. Run drain hose up from the bottom first (start behind sway bar and aim up to just behind SCAC cooler. Then under radiator hose back to CCV Seperator box.
4. Then start from the CCV seperator box with the flexible coupler.
5. Install hose clamp on drain hose, insert the poly coupler into drain hose.
6. Tighten flexible coupler clamps then the drain hose clamp.
7. Zip tie to radiator hose clamp right by the SCAC (this keeps hose away from alternator pulley).
8. Zip tie to front frame behind sway bar (zip ties in and out of two holes on frame).
9. Cut excess hose at an angle with open facing towards the back.
10. Pour beverage

 

nice write up...I will look in my intake tomorrow.

 

A couple threads from the Duramax forum on PCV reroute...its been discussed since 2004 when the closed crankcase was mandated. These are just the most recent posts. Most talk about oil in intake, turbo inlet, cooler, leaking out of boots to aftercooler, etc... They even have vendors that sell the reroute kits. Hopefully these links will provide the information people seek as to why to do it.

Oily goo on bottom of intercooler hoses - Diesel Place

PCV Reroute??? - Diesel Place

How many have done PCV reroute-LMM? - Diesel Place

 

Brian, when you take your truck in for warranty service, will you return it to stock, or leave it as is. I am still waiting for my truck, but am following this article with much interest.

 

If I do take it in for any serious engine warranty work it is simple to return it to stock. To be very honest I don't foresee any warranty work. Especially not caused by this mod (again CCV to intake is EPA mandated). Also note that warranty provisions mandated by government state manufacturers cannont deny warranty...meaning if I have an alternator failure they can not deny the claim because of CCV bypass. Any statement by mfg to deny warranty due to an unrelated change/cause/incident is a scare tactic - granted it causes you a significant amount of work to counter them and win your case.

Two more points:
1. last night I did see crankcase vapor coming from CCV when I unhooked it - meaning the engine is under a slight positive pressure (caused by normal blowby).
2. I also reconfirmed my understanding of modern high speed diesels and crankcase venilation systems and oil vapor entering intake / turbo compressor with a engine development manager here at work - we came to the exact same conclusions.

 

After reading the article you posted on 6.7 engine break in, I think this mod may be most important during the 1st 10k miles with the excess blow by & then after that, good for prevention.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-article.html

 

IM gonna make this simple, then Im out of it.
you need to check the crankcase vacuum stock then modified. you need to make the numbers match. we test them at 3k rpm no load.

 

...are there some lines to read between?

 

changing crankcase pressures can effect egr operation and cause oil leakage concerns( the 2 most likly issues anyway). this has been brought up in the 6.0 forum before as well. IMO if the number match oem spec then the op would have a leg to stand on if there was a concern.

 

cheezit,

I appreciate your comments and coming back into the discussion. In my mind I can't make the connection between the crankcase pressure and the egr?

The egr is electronically controlled actuator and the gas feeds into the high pressure side of the manifold...how does crankcase pressure affect this?

To cut the chase, what causes the oil leakage on the 6.0L???

 

Here is the first post I found on the 6.0L crankcase reroute:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...rerouting.html

It was even made a sticky...

Crankcase Ventilation Rerouting
<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #d1d1e1; COLOR: #d1d1e1" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->The crankcase ventilation system on the 6.0 PSD is of an open/free vent variety (no PCV valve). Crankcase pressure is vented through 4 holes on the drivers side valve cover, into a filter housing,(mounted on the valve cover) passed through a CCV tube, and reintroduced into the intake pre-turbo (between the compressor side of the turbocharger and the mass air flow tube)
Just as on the previous 7.3 PSD, these crankcase gasses deposit oil throughout the intake, clogging airflow in the intercooler and burning the oil that is passed through. Cleaning this up is as easy as rerouting the CCV path from the intake to an open atmosphere vent.

The only equipment you will need is -
1. 2 medium sized ( 1.25-1.50 inch dia) hose clamps
2. A small rubber or plastic plug (dia of CCV end tube)
3. A length of 1 inch Int. Dia. rubber hosing
4. A pack of zip ties

This is a shot of the turbo inlet tube (where the CCV vents) and the plastic expansion joint. You can also see one of the coolant lines at the top that you will need to disconnect-
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=53555&width=0

Begin by unplugging the wiring from the Mass Air Flow sensor (a square plastic sensor on top of the intake tube; has a 6 wire plug) and the wire going to the FilterMinder (the clear filter gauge tube on the back of the air filter housing assembly, has a 2 wire plug). Remove the air filter housing, and place it to the side. With a pair of pliers, remove the two coolant lines from the Degas bottle (coolant overflow) and fold them to the side, out of the way. Then, remove the hose clamp from the top of the Mass Air Tube (this is the tube that attatches to the rear of the air filter; remove the clamp at the back of the plastic expansion joint). Once the clamp is removed, pull the mass air tube assembly out and lay it aside; Then remove the clamp on the other side of the plastic expansion joint and lay the joint aside also.
This will allow you a clear view of the CCV structure. You can now see the crankcase vent filter (mounted between the valve cover and FICM bracket, a long, rectangular black box), tube, and the slant-cut CCV end tube protruding into the turbocharger compressor inlet tube. There are two small bolts holding the FICM bracket to the back side of the turbo inlet tube; remove these and set them aside. Remove the hose clamp from the turbo inlet tube at the turbo compressor housing, and wiggle out the CCV tube elbow from the crankcase vent filter.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=53549&width=0
(The elbow comes out of the front of filter, mounted on the valve cover; rotate it back and forth as you pull outward to line up the release tabs). You can now pull the turbo inlet tube, with the CCV tube still in place, out of the truck.

etc...etc...

 

ok lets see if I can splain this... sometime Im better at then others
first off I understand were you are going about the placement of the egr valve... but please remeber we now flow egr at idle too, idle is a 0 boost o pressure state.
egr function is based on crankcase pressures. changing those pressures can create a condition were to much or not enugh flow can becoem a concern. it the case of a the diesl engines that we have knowldge of today we have learned that excessive flow casues concerns with coking, engine oil polution with things like excessive ash requireing more oil changes.
lack of flow effects cyclinder temp, that can effect your regen rate, back pressure, boost, etc, ect.
oil leaks on a 6.0 is hole different thread that I will be the first to say there are lot of issues there. bottom line here is that if you have higher pressure then you should it will push oil past seals this is true be it a gas or a diesel engine.

I hope this makes sence. Im also in no way saying you shouldnt do this. I just saying do your best to make the crankcase values match. its really simple to do and can be done with a vacumm gauge.
the right way to do it would be to run to a catch canister then back to the intake too.

 

also Ill add I have not done the ccv rerout on my 6.0 and the intake is spotless as it was 30k ago when I cleaned it.

 

I got busy today and was unable to look into my intake. We are away until Tuesday so I will have to wait till then to look at it. I will be watching this thread to see where it goes. I did the CCV reroute on my 6,0. I never really noticed any difference but I did not have it that long. I am leery of tampering with this truck, too expensive to jeopardize the warranty.