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Fuel pump removal psd how to remove rear lines

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Old 01-25-2011, 03:08 PM
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Fuel pump removal psd how to remove rear lines

Have just got this fuel pump out on 97 psd,really hope to receive some advice on how to disconnect the part that is on the rear of the pump with the two lines that go to each head above the #7 & #8 cylinders as well as what i'm looking for to ensure that this is remove correctly and that one part doesn't drop into engine.Kinda vague here as havent raise up the fuel pump from the seated position although remember something about turning the engine over so that the pump is up or something like that.Been 3 weeks and finally fixing it,miss this truck.........Thankx!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:24 PM
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1-1/8" or 1-1/4" box end wrench. cant remember which. it only turns a little at a time so be patient. its a banjo bolt. check fit it to the new pump (before you install the new pump) just to be sure its not going to bind at all going in. its true you should loosen the hold down bolts then rotate the engine by hand untill the pump pops up. theres a tappet that rides the cam and it will fall into places in the engine that you dont want to disassemble.
 
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:51 PM
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Ahhhhh,thanks so much,was beginning to consider turbo removal.Have a spare motor am pulling off of so its much easier than underhood although that's next.Thanks again,Ronjon
 
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:00 PM
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Just like Ken_C said on the banjo bolt. It is very, very slooooooow going. As much fun as it is to get that bolt out it is even more fun put it back in IMHO.

Paul
 
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:39 PM
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1 1/4" combo wrench. Slow going but it doesn't take much to be able to use fingers. Look at the pulley for the camshaft. There is a mark to indicate the position of the countetweight. Use a 1/2" dr ratchet w a 13/16" socket and turn the engine by hand until that mark is at the 11 oclock position. Then it is safe to pull the pump out.
 
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:42 PM
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Hi,my son&i just did the fuel lines on our 95psd and we borrowed a wrench from a friend that he used on his heavy equipment,he called it a hydraulic wrench,it was open ended on
both ends and it was not straight like a open&box end wrench. the ends were at an angle to each other and made it easy to get to the bango bolt.
 
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:39 PM
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Have an extra motor and was able to used a ratchet with a 1 1/4 socket for it although performed a test on the truck with the believed bad fuel pump.Emptied the fuel bowl and cranked motor to find fuel was pumped into the bowl.So it seems that is not the solution.After a brand new CPS from Ford today cranked and no start,swapped another extra pcm and cranked and no start.About to research for bad idm or bad hpop symptoms.Making progress and eventually will have success by process of elimination.
 
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:41 PM
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does it smoke any when you crank it?
 
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:04 PM
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non smoker copedawg,not a thing and this is a warm 70 degree day
 
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:33 PM
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No smoke?...I would check the IDM... it is a box under the driver side hood spring on the fender. 4(?) 8mm bolts and a 10mm bolt on the harness...take it off and give it a good shake and listen for water splashing around in it. If you hear water then it is bad.
 
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by redman84
1 1/4" combo wrench. Slow going but it doesn't take much to be able to use fingers. Look at the pulley for the camshaft. There is a mark to indicate the position of the countetweight. Use a 1/2" dr ratchet w a 13/16" socket and turn the engine by hand until that mark is at the 11 oclock position. Then it is safe to pull the pump out.
That is a very good tip. because some times the fuel pump doesnt pops up even do with the hold down bolts loosen and then rotate the engine by hand. Rep sent.

Originally Posted by johnbrown
Hi,my son&i just did the fuel lines on our 95psd and we borrowed a wrench from a friend that he used on his heavy equipment,he called it a hydraulic wrench,it was open ended on
both ends and it was not straight like a open&box end wrench. the ends were at an angle to each other and made it easy to get to the bango bolt.
Or you can use this wrench (from Excavator)
 
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Old 01-31-2011, 10:24 PM
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idm is suspect as i keep need to adding hpop oil res after 5 or more cranks,already checking for idm resources.Ebay best price in the $100 range although yet to go to others.In the am gonna inspect the idm,about to do some research on idm output wires to injectors.Unsure of the pin to test and will post when discovered for future reference.That special wrench in the pic looks like it will make a clear turn under turbo pedastal,nice work on the mod!!!!!
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP
Or you can use this wrench (from Excavator)
There is no picture
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Desert Rancher
There is no picture

I can see the pic, I dont know why you can see it.
I ask to other members if they can see it? Let me know.
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP
I can see the pic, I dont know why you can see it.
I ask to other members if they can see it? Let me know.
If we are talking about the wrench, I can see the pic.
 


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