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  #46  
Old 01-31-2011, 02:59 AM
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bendog, i appriciate your concern. no, i haven't drivin a push pull steer truck for extended periods of time. you are right, there will be more stress on the spacer bolts which will be 3" longer than the original steering arm bolts. I was planning on lowering the box slightly and retaining the stock pitman arm, but i cannot go to far or the steering shaft (to coloum) will not work (will hit the 2wd crossmember). The box i was planning to use is the ford one that came on the truck that i got the 60 out of. I had a problem a few years back with a big 79 bronco i use to torcher off road, with the big tires i actually started to break the panhard bar (track bar) mounting location. one time i broke the panhard mount right off and when i tried to turn the tires, the wheels stayed straight and the whole truck moved side to side. Now, i know the crew wont see the abuse the bronco did, so maybe i'm worrying too much. Maybe i'll re think the set up... What steering box are you using?? whats a good doner buggy for a 800 series siginaw?? any other input anyone???
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  #47  
Old 01-31-2011, 06:33 AM
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This is just because I like the coil spring ride. On my dodge, I built a crossmember almost identical to yours. [/quote]

That sounds like an interesting idea, going with the coils... good job on the crossmember, too bad its on a "billy goat".... just joking .... when going with the F150 front suspension do you plan on keeping the original trailing arms or do you plan on going with a custom setup?? I belive that the stock stuff would work just fine for a road truck..and they do provide a smooth ride.[/QUOTE]

It is my desire to make it all appear stock when I am done. I plan on entirely using all the 150 stuff. My dodge is being built as an offroad rig, and the ford will get 4wd mainly for winter, getting firewood, hunting, etc.

I understand your theory about crossover, but I would say do it anyway and then do a track bar later if necessary. On my "billy goat" I am fabbing up crossover, plan on a track bar, and hydro assist to move part of the steering stress right to the axle, and not have it all pushing on the frame. Hope that made sense...
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  #48  
Old 02-01-2011, 04:23 PM
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I've been driving my 76 crew with crossover steering and no panhard bar for over a year now (16k miles) and the steering feel is as good as my 04 F-250 was, even while towing a 10k pound bumper pull trailer.
I used the sag box from my Cummins donor 97 Dodge 2500 2wd reg cab, along with the hydroboost and power steering pump. This way all factory high and low pressure lines are still factory Dodge pieces, easier replacement and trouble shooting. The boxes were the same from the beginning of the newer body style up till I think abgout 04. The newer 4x4 boxes bolt right in and use fewer turns lock to lock (when mine fails I'll replace with one of these).
Didn't the bronco have a coil spring front end? In that case the panhard bar is the ONLY thing keeping the front axle centered under the front of the truck. At least one company sells an improved lower track bar bolt for the coil sprung front end. Providing the neccessity, I presume, a weak factory design? If the lower bolt loosens it puts more stress on the cast(?) mount leading to the broken mount.
Leaf springs are the only thing locating the front axle, side to side and front to back in these old trucks, if they needed a panhard bar with crossover, they would need one with push pull as well, because as you go around corners tremendous side load is placed on the front suspension, whether push pull or crossover, the weight of the vehicle is trying to go straight, the tires are pointing sideways. In my opinion the weight of the vehicle imparts more stress to the front end than crossover, or any other steering.
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  #49  
Old 02-01-2011, 10:11 PM
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bendog, i see where you are coming from saying that there are other strong forces acting sideways on the front end other than that the steering. The bronco was a coil front end, but it bent/broke at the frame side of things, not the axle, but that is a thing of the past now. I am going to consider a crossover style...but i am still not convinced that i need to... I will have to look into weather it will help with the ease of steering box mounting....
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  #50  
Old 02-01-2011, 10:27 PM
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Sounds good. Looking forward to updates/pics.
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  #51  
Old 03-26-2011, 01:48 AM
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well its been a while since i've posted but i have been making some progress. I'm having some trouble getting some of my pics resized to make them uploadable, so no pics...sorry. I've since changed my camera settings so i don't have to resize but no new pics. Anyway.... i've been doing alot of steering mock ups and testing. I had planned on using my 79 f250 box with the push pull setup. With the motor sitting in place i had to notch the top frame web. I made a mounting plate and tried to mock it up. I just wasn't satisfied with how it was going to sit... too close to the motor and the lowing the box into the frame was going to cause problems with the steering box to column shaft. sooooo, i called my buddy that has an abundance of dodge saginaw boxes. it just so happened that he still had the box from the cummins doner truck we split on a year ago. This is the one that mounts on the outside of the frame. I got it and began mocking it up.. i still plan on using the push pull setup for now, using the longer dodge drag link and shorter dodge D60 steering arm. After a lot of figuring and measuring I found a location that i'm happy with. One problem with the dodge setup that my buddy notified me of is that with large tires you might get tire rub on the pitman arm when turned all the way to the right. I plan on running 35" or 37" tires (that i don't have yet for mockup purposes) so i was sure to mount the box where it should clear (hope my tape measure isn't lying...). The dodge siganaw box mounts to a plate which then mounts to the frame with three bolts. the way it ended up the top bolt was right in line with my top frame web (if it was there). I then proceded to bend the piece of frame i cut out to form a slight hump in the top of the frame and weld everything back in to give me a factory look. I then took a piece of 3/8" plate and cut it to fit inside the frame and welded it in place to give me more strength. Using this box also allows me to use the factory cummins steering lines. Hopefully this has the steering taken care of. I just need to fab up a shaft to go to the 2wd column.
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  #52  
Old 03-26-2011, 02:01 AM
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I also got my fuel cell mocked up in the rear frame. I was originally planning to use the dodge plastic tank, but the narrow frame was making it too tight to fit. I decide to make my own custon tank out of aluminum. My new tank dimensions are 46" long, 26" wide, and 8" deep.. this should give me about 140 litres.. Its going to be mounted between the frame rails and between the two crossmembers right above the rear axle. I bent some 3/16" alum into a 46"x26"x8" channel. i then took some 1/4" alum flat bar, milled slots halfway through in 2 spots on a 46" long piece and in the center of two 25 3/4" peces. I then slid the slots together to make a baffle system. i then proceded to tack everything together so that i can mock it up to get locations for my filler tube, sending unit, and return lines. I plan on using a factory ford rear tank sending unit so my guage works. I also ordered 20' of 3/8" SS tubing to use for my fuel lines.
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  #53  
Old 04-04-2011, 06:29 PM
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Heres some pics of my fuel tank mocked up in my frame.
Click the image to open in full size.

Once my figuring is complete for the filler pipe, vent, return line, and sending unit location (I pulled the sending unit out of one of my parts trucks the other day) I will remove the tank and finish the welding.
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  #54  
Old 04-04-2011, 06:42 PM
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Heres where I modified the frame to accept the mew steering box.
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The steering box mounting plate is painted, and the box is ready for paint.
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  #55  
Old 04-04-2011, 06:50 PM
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One thing ive yet to mention is the fact that the cummins is sitting in the truck. I designed my mounts to work with the frst gen style mounts. the mounts are designed to sit on the 2wd crossmember, and also to offset the engine 1" to the passenger side.
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  #56  
Old 04-04-2011, 07:13 PM
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The engine has actually been in place for a while. My buddy and I installed it with the tranny attached, and that was a royal pain in the ***. The 2wd crossmember sits further back than the 4wd crossmember so my window to work wit was smaller. I also doesn't help that the cummins is a very tall motor. When tipping it back to allow the tranny to tuck under the cab, the oil pan would hit the 2wd crossmember, and the #6 valve cover would hit the firewall. Fun fun. Regardless, we got it in place, and i was able to reuse the 2wd tranny crossmember, just in a new location. I did trim the firewall by the seam, and i plan on making a custom cover for the tranny hump that will cover where i cut. I have since pulled the engine ahead 1/2" from where it was originally sitting so my firewall mayby didn't have to be trimmed as much as i did... I am content with the the new location so i welded the mounts in.
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  #57  
Old 04-04-2011, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77_crew View Post
Heres some pics of my fuel tank mocked up in my frame.
Click the image to open in full size.

Once my figuring is complete for the filler pipe, vent, return line, and sending unit location (I pulled the sending unit out of one of my parts trucks the other day) I will remove the tank and finish the welding.
Click the image to open in full size.
Looking nice! I am about to start this portion of my build. What thickness did you use for the fuel tank? I'm thinking I'll go 3/16" think 5052 aluminum. I might go 1/4" thick but not sure it is needed.
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  #58  
Old 04-04-2011, 08:15 PM
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I used 3/16" alum. im not sure of the alloy. The baffles and ends are 1/4". I think that it will hold around 156 litres, and the location right over the axle should work to my benifit as well. The 3/16" should be not too bad to work with, welding 1/4" alum requirds alot of heat, and that usually results in kicking breakers (which gets annoying). Preheating helps as well....
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  #59  
Old 04-11-2011, 05:30 PM
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I've also been designing and fabbing some custom transfer case mounts. The case im using is a NP205 divorced out of one of my highboy parts trucks. I bought a gasket set and cleaned up the case. my custom mounts are made out of 1/2" plate and some heavy pipe. I machined the paipe and fitted it to some rubber/steel bushings that felt would take the torque. They are around 2 3/8" OD, 5/8" ID and 3" long.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

One of these bolts to the case on each side, then i will make a plate with ears on it that will be welded into a crossmember, and the bushings will mount to the ears.
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  #60  
Old 04-11-2011, 05:35 PM
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Here is the t-case with the mounting plate.
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hopefully soon this will be mounted under the beast. The truck had a hanger bearing and the crossmember that was mounted on is where i will mount the bracket.
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:35 PM
 
 
 
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