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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

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  #31  
Old 01-28-2011, 08:54 PM
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thats some great work, if you don't mind i'm going too copy your build and do the same thing to my 2wd crew
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  #32  
Old 01-28-2011, 09:33 PM
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No prob, what year is your crew?? check if you have the holes in the front frame horns.. there should be three holes on the bottom of the frame web... now saying that, i just found a 78 F350 crew for my buddy, and when we picked it up the other day i climbed underneath and saw that the holes wern't there... the rest of the front frame appeared to be the same, but i didn't look that close.... if the holes are there, it gives you a good starting point for mounting a crossmember..but its not the end of the world if they are not...
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:45 PM
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mines a 78,,and i just looked ,i do have the three holes,, now i'm on the hunt around my local area for the dana 60 and all the other goodies i need
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  #34  
Old 01-28-2011, 09:49 PM
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Right on, good luck with the search... i did have to drill the holes out to 1/2" for my bolts, but at least they were there.
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  #35  
Old 01-28-2011, 10:48 PM
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Consider me schooled! I thought it was easier to cut off the front of a 2wd frame and weld on the front of a 4wd frame. Would it fit if you weren't lifting the truck? Maybe that's where I'm stuck? This seems like a simple conversion (for someone capable). Looks much easier to do this, or cut out the factory c-member and fab up your own if not lifting? The frame rail looks the same as my 76 4wd. Only difference appears to be the c-members.
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  #36  
Old 01-29-2011, 12:01 AM
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Yes it was alot easier to do the conversion with the fact that the frames are close... with the exception of the crossmembers... to do it with out lifting it you would definatly need to modify the 2wd crossmember. I originally designed this lift style (before i owned my crew) when i was looking at doing a steering upgrade on my buddys 77 hi-boy. He wants to get rid of the power assist, so after comparing a 79 F250 (lowboy) to his hi-boy, i was concerened about there being enough space between the leafs and the frame fore the pitman arm to fit. thats when i came up with the idea of making a spacer for his spring mounts....
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  #37  
Old 01-29-2011, 03:47 PM
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I have been basically watching this, but thought I would chime in. I don't claim to know much about crews, but on mine,it appears that the frame is the same as a highboy, just with 2wd crossmember placement. Even the front bumper has a bolt on bracket for the front frame horn (the frame is a C all the way forward) Given this, when I eventually convert my truck to 4wd, I am planning on getting an F150 front end, chopping out the boxed portion in the frame, and then just sliding it in the crew frame from the front.

This is just because I like the coil spring ride. On my dodge, I built a crossmember almost identical to yours. Click the image to open in full size.
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  #38  
Old 01-29-2011, 03:52 PM
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Great plan, and great looking build so far! Best of luck to you!
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  #39  
Old 01-30-2011, 09:27 PM
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[/quote] This is just because I like the coil spring ride. On my dodge, I built a crossmember almost identical to yours. [/quote]

That sounds like an interesting idea, going with the coils... good job on the crossmember, too bad its on a "billy goat".... just joking .... when going with the F150 front suspension do you plan on keeping the original trailing arms or do you plan on going with a custom setup?? I belive that the stock stuff would work just fine for a road truck..and they do provide a smooth ride.
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  #40  
Old 01-30-2011, 09:42 PM
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No onto the front 60... After a good clean up i was ready to freshen her up a bit. I installed a kingpin rebuild kit on both sides that i ordered from bronco graveyard...awesome price!! Removing the old tapered pins was fun, and then i installed the new ones with the aide of a torque multiplier to get me to the proper torque. I cant remamber the exact number, but i think is was around 600 ft-lbs. I then installed new axle bearins/seals, as well as new wheel bearings/seals. I didn't do any internal carrier work. I felt that the factory open carrier was good enough, and everything looked clean and tight. After some fresh paint she was ready... I also had my friend powder coat my front cover and pinion yoke to match the rear.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #41  
Old 01-30-2011, 09:52 PM
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I also plan on retaining the factory push pull style steering. I know that many will argue that crossover steering is better, but i don't like the side thrust on the suspension that crossover steering will create without a panhard bar installed. Maybe someday i'll find the need for it, but for now the original will do. So, since my truck is lifted i needed to deal with the steering hight problem. What i did was make a spacer for my steering arm that is the kingpin cap on the drivers side. I took two pieces of 1 1/2" thick steel approx 3"x4", machined a hole through the center of one for my kingpin spring, groved and welded the two together. I then drilled the four mouning holes through the now 1 piece block. I also added a grease nipple in the side of the lower block to allow me to grease my kingpin bushing. This wil give me 3" of lift to the steering arm. I am hoping to gain the rest through my steering box placement.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #42  
Old 01-30-2011, 09:54 PM
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The end result with the axle installed.
Click the image to open in full size.
I will be purchasing new steering linkages before the project is done, but the old ones will help me until that time.
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  #43  
Old 01-31-2011, 12:06 AM
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I have deciced not to start the steering box install until the cummins is in place. I would rather move the steering box to clear the cummins opposted to move the cummins around the steering box. After some ealier measuring ive decided to mount the cummins with a 1" offset towards the passenger side to help it land into the cab indent. I replaced the gaskets (not all, but most) in the cummins and gave it a fresh coat of paint as well. Sometimes it feels like this project is draging on forever, but i'm sure it will pay off in the end.
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  #44  
Old 01-31-2011, 12:27 AM
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A little history....I originally decided to do this build when my daily driver truck (98 gmc sierra 4x4) started show its worn out state (400000+ hard kms). I was looking a buying a newer truck, like a F250 superduty diesel. After looking at what was available, lots of dreaded 6.0 litre trucks, and high mile 7.3 trucks, i started to question what i was getting into. I also feel that newer vehicles aren't made with the quality that the old ones were. I also am not a fan of unit bearings and chineese steel. The dentside fords have always been my favorite truck, and i have picked up several over the years and have lots parts, but none worthy of being my daily driver. I do have a mint 79 bronco that needs finishing, but i need a truck... I started looking for a crew, unitl i found the one i have now... the next problem is that these trucks aren't practical daily drivers due to the fuel milage... This is when i decided to go with the tough, reliable, fuel efficient cummins. My final plan was to spend roughly the same amount i would on a new vehical on my old one, but make it almost new by replaceing every bearing/seal, etc, that i could. This crew will be my daily driver!!.....oh ya, the cops hasseled me last week, gave me a mit full of fines and 72hr notices to fix a bunch of crap on my GMC truck... i didn't want to put any more money into the old girl so i took it off the road and it is now a lawn ordament.... time for full steam ahead producion on the crew!!!
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  #45  
Old 01-31-2011, 12:35 AM
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I DO NOT want to cause a problem here, you've likely forgotten more about geometry/fabrication than I'll ever know, but I urge you to reconsider crossover.

Have you ever driven a push pull steered truck? My dads stock height 79 F-250 (proper geometry) is a nightmare on narrow roads, and he's replaced every wear part on the front end. My 76 crossover with many a worn leaf spring bushing tracks very precicely and predictably, even towing a 10k pound trailer accross narrow bridges.
I've heard horror stories of broken steering arm spacer bolts, tons of stress on those bolts, hence the need for alignment cones. Adding a spacer places far more leverage on those bolts/studs. I believe, with the lift you are running and your obvious skill and equipment availability, it may just be easier to run crossover, once you factor in the box mounting that you'll have to do. I'm no steering expert, but you could also use a Saginaw box for added ease of installation and low cost maintenance. The Ford boxes from Red head (about the only quality rebuilder of the desired Ford 4x4 boxes) are mucho dinero.
I'd be willing to bet there will be far more stress placed on the spacer block fasteners than lateral stress to the front axle. The conseqences of failure are higher too. The front end is built to handle way more side thrust than any steering linkage could possibly inflict upon it.
If you are going to retain push pull, why not just lower the box? Although that would stress the frame. Or a dropped pitman arm? That would stress the pit shaft and bearings.
No matter what you do, this truck is looking great, I wish i had your fab skills and toolery.
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:35 AM
 
 
 
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