Fuel tank selector valve replacement, and fuel gauge
#1
Fuel tank selector valve replacement, and fuel gauge
I bought my wife a 1978 F250 Camper special with 69000 original miles on the 460. Long story short, the electronic tank selector valve was in a bag on the floor when I bought it and the main tank is the only one hooked up. The previous owner unhooked the aux tank. I want to hook this all back up the way it came and I have a question. Ford doesn't make this part anymore, and I found this online: Electric Tank Switching Valve - WILD HORSES Early Ford Bronco Parts
It looks correct but I need some informed opinions. My tank selector switch is on the dash by the heater controls. Also will replacing this switch make the fuel gauge work again as the previous owner states? I've always been a Ford guy and I own a 99 Mustang Cobra vert, but this is my first endeavor into carburated vehicles, and my first F series truck. Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated.
It looks correct but I need some informed opinions. My tank selector switch is on the dash by the heater controls. Also will replacing this switch make the fuel gauge work again as the previous owner states? I've always been a Ford guy and I own a 99 Mustang Cobra vert, but this is my first endeavor into carburated vehicles, and my first F series truck. Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated.
#2
I bought my wife a 1978 F250 Camper special with 69000 original miles on the 460. Long story short, the electronic tank selector valve was in a bag on the floor when I bought it and the main tank is the only one hooked up. The previous owner unhooked the aux tank. I want to hook this all back up the way it came and I have a question. Ford doesn't make this part anymore, and I found this online: Electric Tank Switching Valve - WILD HORSES Early Ford Bronco Parts
It looks correct but I need some informed opinions. My tank selector switch is on the dash by the heater controls. Also will replacing this switch make the fuel gauge work again as the previous owner states? I've always been a Ford guy and I own a 99 Mustang Cobra vert, but this is my first endeavor into carburated vehicles, and my first F series truck. Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated.
It looks correct but I need some informed opinions. My tank selector switch is on the dash by the heater controls. Also will replacing this switch make the fuel gauge work again as the previous owner states? I've always been a Ford guy and I own a 99 Mustang Cobra vert, but this is my first endeavor into carburated vehicles, and my first F series truck. Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated thanks.
#4
From what I understand the above switch it is a one wire connection, my 78-F250 has two wires connected to the stock tank switch. Question is will connecting a single wire to this part allow the fuel gauges to switch and work properly? '' This is the stuff only dreams are made of ''
#6
#7
Uncle
Not 100% sure this answers your question but i'll give it a shot.
This wiring diagram is for a 79 but it should be the same. Top center of the page is the fuel selector dash switch to control the gauges AND the electronic valve. It shows one wire to the valve and grounded through the frame.
In one switch position it's in neutral (no power, spring loaded to the default tank) in the other position it is powered to push the valve to the other tank.
Is it possible someone added a ground wire to your selector valve? All the ones i've seen have one wire and the factory wiring diagrams show one wire.
I'm in the process of upgrading my 73 from the factory manual selector to a 79 electric as part of an overall electrical upgrade so i've been spending a lot of time with these pages.
Hope that helps.
Not 100% sure this answers your question but i'll give it a shot.
This wiring diagram is for a 79 but it should be the same. Top center of the page is the fuel selector dash switch to control the gauges AND the electronic valve. It shows one wire to the valve and grounded through the frame.
In one switch position it's in neutral (no power, spring loaded to the default tank) in the other position it is powered to push the valve to the other tank.
Is it possible someone added a ground wire to your selector valve? All the ones i've seen have one wire and the factory wiring diagrams show one wire.
I'm in the process of upgrading my 73 from the factory manual selector to a 79 electric as part of an overall electrical upgrade so i've been spending a lot of time with these pages.
Hope that helps.
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#13
Uncle
Not 100% sure this answers your question but i'll give it a shot.
This wiring diagram is for a 79 but it should be the same. Top center of the page is the fuel selector dash switch to control the gauges AND the electronic valve. It shows one wire to the valve and grounded through the frame.
In one switch position it's in neutral (no power, spring loaded to the default tank) in the other position it is powered to push the valve to the other tank.
Is it possible someone added a ground wire to your selector valve? All the ones i've seen have one wire and the factory wiring diagrams show one wire.
I'm in the process of upgrading my 73 from the factory manual selector to a 79 electric as part of an overall electrical upgrade so i've been spending a lot of time with these pages.
Hope that helps.
Not 100% sure this answers your question but i'll give it a shot.
This wiring diagram is for a 79 but it should be the same. Top center of the page is the fuel selector dash switch to control the gauges AND the electronic valve. It shows one wire to the valve and grounded through the frame.
In one switch position it's in neutral (no power, spring loaded to the default tank) in the other position it is powered to push the valve to the other tank.
Is it possible someone added a ground wire to your selector valve? All the ones i've seen have one wire and the factory wiring diagrams show one wire.
I'm in the process of upgrading my 73 from the factory manual selector to a 79 electric as part of an overall electrical upgrade so i've been spending a lot of time with these pages.
Hope that helps.
PDX-- Thank you for your effort :} Going through all that you provided is involved and very time consuming, to post the wiring diagram and to comment on my problem as you have is very well appreciated and has not gone unnoticed.
My project load is overwhelming considering the number of old rigs we own. The thing is I love wrenching and sooner or later things come full circle and get repaired. This switch is a learning process currently, as I repair some hydraulic problems on my 1985 Case 580 Super E Back Hoe, problems that occurred last winter during our rainy season.
I have no roof so wile the sun is shining the tools will be out doors staying dry as I continue to repair things one at a time.
Next is the complete air conditioning system replacement in my wife's vehicle.
As I review the dash switch and try to determine what the second wire is on the factory frame rail fluid switch, for the 1978 F250 custom cab 4x4, I will keep this forum up dated.
What once took a few hours may now take a few days but if not for the oil in my veins my heart would have quit a long time ago.
Thanks
Uncle Louie
PS - PDX It is raining out there or I would have a look at the lower [2nd] wire. As soon as I can get around I will have a look to see if there is a boot covering the connection to the lower wire on the fluid switch. It all looked factory to me but I am the 2nd owner having made purchase in the very early 1980s.
#14
The top wire is light blue going into the top of the liquid switch through a factory rubber compression retainer. The second wire is white with a white stripe, going into a factory clip connector that is mounted to the center of the motor drive mechanism which is located in the lower half of this part.
So absolutely yes there are two wires involved in the original 1978 F-250 Ford dual Gas tank selector switch and valve.
Uncle Louie
So absolutely yes there are two wires involved in the original 1978 F-250 Ford dual Gas tank selector switch and valve.
Uncle Louie
#15