Found some heads and wondering if detailed info sounds correct to FTE members. Looking to add some power to my 1973 429.
This is a set of Ford 4V Hi Compression Heads. Casting numbers on these are C9VE-A. These feature a 75cc combustion chamber, Screw In Rocker Studs and a 2.09" Intake x 1.65" Exhaust Valve compliment. Bolting a set of these Heads on a typical late model carburetted 460 engine will increase the compression by 1.6 points and provide a LARGE boost in performance. Adding a set of CJ/SCJ Valves to these Heads(sold on a different DSC auction today), and having these castings ported and polished will actually OUTFLOW a set of CJ/SCJ castings according to Ford Motor Company's reasearch(re: page 34 of supplement #2 of the Muscle Parts Book, on the 302 Boss, Cleveland and 429 Wedge). These Heads have been cleaned and magnafluxed OK, and are great for an application where more power and torque are needed from a late model, low compression 429 or 460 engine. I have seen these support over 700 hp when done with large Valves and the proper porting work.
yes they will raise your compression. the stock heads on your engine are nominal 95cc so it DOES bring it up although it isn't quite 1.6 points I think it's actually around 1.3 but close enough. may require a little better gas.
They don't actually flow more then the heads you currently have on your 73 (assuming you actually have D3VE heads like it should)
They are the same as D0VE heads.
the part about out flowing CJ heads is basic advertising. comparing apples to grapes trying to make them look better.
Also there is no such designation as 460 4V heads. ALL 460 carbed engines had 4v carbs so not a reference adn all 429/460 standard passenger car heads were teh same whether it was a 460 or grandma's 429 with a 2V (CJ/SCJ and boss were of coarse different) the use of the 4V designation to describe heads is only really applicable in the 351C heads.
Personally first thing I would do is swap the timing chain for an early or roller chain to get the cam timing straight up.
C9 or Dove heads do not out flow CJ heads. Cobra jet heads can make 800 plus hp on a max effort race engine but they are not very good for a street engine because the intake ports are too big causing them to be doggy in the lower RPM's. If your engine happens to have D2VE heads it would be worth swapping heads. D3 heads will run better on pump gas than the C9 or D0VE heads
Hello, Im not understanding a few things, mostly because Im a dolt but its like this here, I bought a 1978 F250 Supercab last May, not really caring much for the details of the 460 with the C9Ve??? something heads, because the body is in good shape and the motor appeared as a good running unit, no leaks, started instantly, didn't smoke, hadn't run for a while and this impressed $1400 out of my dolt like pockets.
Well on the way home Im having to lay off the throttle coming off stop lights because im laying out a nice bit of rubber on low gear unintentionally. So I start looking here at this forum and reading about these heads but its still a problem. I know nothing about setting these engines up. It runs like a ***** looking for that last fix on PUMP gas, regular too. I didn't know those first few days what the deal was and after reading forums here and there this isn't supposed to be how it is with these engines. Learning to set timing will be interesting, any and all advice is appreciated. Im concerned about exhaust, it needs new headers. I saw a thread something they mentioned to stick with the same size it had prior. When I catch the timing curve right its really a nice truck, but because I don't know all the tinkering and fiddling with it might be doing more damage.
Lemme know what you think, Obviously im a stupid bit of flesh but if I can get the old girl to where I know whats going on with it, il be a not so stupid happy camper.
I don't understand, you have to back off the throttle to keep from roasting tires on a 4500# truck and it runs terrible? That doesn't add up. Obviously you have a hybrid, since it is a 1969 engine in a 70s model truck. Keep in mind that it is really old and probably needs some attention. Remember that timing chains wear out, our terrible gas now rots carbs, fuel lines, fuel pumps, and also that that thing if it is a 460 might be north of 10:1 compression. Keep that all in mind. Tune it up, do a carb kit, check timing, is it points or solid state? Is it timed right? How are the plugs? Does it have any blow by? It sounds like a good engine, starting easily and no smoke, but be careful until you know what you really have.
Mr Warhouse thank you for the advice, it is nice to know you understand a little of the dilemma.
In running machines with high horse power for a number of years, certain rules apply where physics grasp common sense. On warm up I try to keep rpm lower than 1000, usually not kick it off until the heat kicks out of the core or the temp gauge wiggles. Although this engine is new and Im not familiar with the in's and outs its taking to me in a way that's telling me to use it properly and not bother much with the hotrod aspects until the numbers and timing curve are in complete control.
My past with BB fords was that 460 are great low rev torque engines and this is very much true with this truck. But now Im reading the config of my intake (RPM Air Gap and Carb (1813) with those heads are good past 5500 - 6000 RPM. Id never run it that hard, you are right, it has been in this truck a very long time. The transmission and transfer case show signs of being rebuilt within the last 5 years but that engine hasn't been out since the 90s, if even then. The way the headers were welded make it obvious they didn't or couldn't pull the engine to properly repair what looks to be the flanges being smashed by the frame.
Still a GREAT piece of equipment to drive, highly addictive. At this time not being regularly employed I spent quite a bit of time on this truck daily. Mostly doing things I missed with the trucks I had when I was younger, little tweaks here and there. I DID flog the electric choke, sick of it kicking the engine to 1200 RPM on a cold start. Id rather sit and figure it out manual choke. And hell no I wont buy some krap auto parts store choke cable for $40!!! Not sure how dense they are but that was ridiculous when I saw it.
I ditched my electric choke too, being in Florida its almost never cold or thin enough to have one work 99% of the time anyways.
My local AutoZone had a Edelbrock choke cable on the shelf for 16 bucks and change. My carb is a holley so i looked up their's and they were 20+ and looked cheap.
Bought the Edelbrock, got a nice shiny billet ****, but dont think it will be easy getting the logo to face upright but i think it would be exactly the same on any manual choke.
I also have a late 70's truck with a D0vE engine shoved into it, but mine is quite sick so id say if you can get any tire spin at all your doing alright. Dirty carbs are the number one cause of bad behavior. A quick but not always effective fix is sticking a CLEAN rag over the carb while its running till the engine dies. This forces the carb to search for more vaccuum and will pull most of the crud out of the carb itself.
yes that's an old school method I learned very young. This edelbrock carb is huge, it hasn't got a spacer plate or what some call a heat dissapaitor. its a quick pull due to the spring is medium heavy but once your past a certain point that's all of it and it aint far from the top of where the pedal sits.
went over to see this fella about a bumper, said he knows fords a little thought I had it set to far ahead on timing. Truck had driven a good 5 or 6 miles and warm so I loosened that set nut and bumped it to the right a little (drivers side). It started like a champ, it had been doing that old school ford duraspark power failing thing where it sits almost a full second between cranks but starts instantly after the lag right.....it fires up, shoulda checked idle but road was clear so I tramped down put her to work, had great power, less then a mile im thinking he was right.
Im on it a little in a 45 zone, with the kickdown shift cable off it I have to either manual shift or make sure the rpm is there, if you let it go to sleep on a hill its a hard downshift not to mention rear diff has the nail polish style flakes of steel in it. Anyways Pretty good clear hill no one on it I hammer it and that's when I realized a little bit more about that power band, it has it at certain rpm and at other rpm it isn't like it was now....
Iv left it there and like it, starts right quick, power band is a little later in the rpm but its all there. Just got in from trying to straighten rad mounting, its way to close to the fan, the support has huge holes cut in it for cold air intake.