Bypass Oil Filter kit installation with pictures
#1
Bypass Oil Filter kit installation with pictures
So I decided to add the benefits of a dual bypass filtration system to my new F450.
The idea was to give the truck more advantages than dino oil could offer. I won't bore anyone by citing all the benefits, but one of them may be extended drain intervals. But with some of these engines "making oil", we will have to see with oil analysis where the extended drain sweet spot really lies.
On my last diesel truck (2006), the oil tested good to about 25,000 miles between changes (based on analysis). And I've been using variants of this system since 1986 with good success. I always liked the idea of reducing the dirt particle size that normally circulates in the engine even with a new filter and fresh oil. The standard filter could not be more efficient since it could restrict flow and cavitate. The answer was one full flow filter and one metered one, as in the system below (though other combinations are possible).
Not really trying to sell anyone on this, but for those considering, I thought it might be nice to contribute some installation pics.
Engine turns over pretty easily at -20 degrees without plugging in. Supposed to be more slippery, but I'm sure the reduced friction results in minimal mileage gains. Engine seems to run about 6 degrees cooler on the freeway.
I had to figure out where to put everything, and it took more than half a day in a heated garage bay. As big as these trucks are, there isn't spare space in the engine compartment for this kit.
Ended up with a vertical install to the outer frame rail on the passenger side, right around the transmission crossmember. The only thing the kit lacked was touch up paint and a sampling petcock (optional). Added split rubber hose over the oil lines in possible chafing areas, and zip tied the whole mess up high against the floorpan. Put several thousand miles on it since with no issues. Will be taking a sample soon, to establish a baseline.
I apologize for the less than optimal cell phone camera, and my crummy formatting of this post. I did have some issues getting this all to work.
The idea was to give the truck more advantages than dino oil could offer. I won't bore anyone by citing all the benefits, but one of them may be extended drain intervals. But with some of these engines "making oil", we will have to see with oil analysis where the extended drain sweet spot really lies.
On my last diesel truck (2006), the oil tested good to about 25,000 miles between changes (based on analysis). And I've been using variants of this system since 1986 with good success. I always liked the idea of reducing the dirt particle size that normally circulates in the engine even with a new filter and fresh oil. The standard filter could not be more efficient since it could restrict flow and cavitate. The answer was one full flow filter and one metered one, as in the system below (though other combinations are possible).
Not really trying to sell anyone on this, but for those considering, I thought it might be nice to contribute some installation pics.
Engine turns over pretty easily at -20 degrees without plugging in. Supposed to be more slippery, but I'm sure the reduced friction results in minimal mileage gains. Engine seems to run about 6 degrees cooler on the freeway.
I had to figure out where to put everything, and it took more than half a day in a heated garage bay. As big as these trucks are, there isn't spare space in the engine compartment for this kit.
Ended up with a vertical install to the outer frame rail on the passenger side, right around the transmission crossmember. The only thing the kit lacked was touch up paint and a sampling petcock (optional). Added split rubber hose over the oil lines in possible chafing areas, and zip tied the whole mess up high against the floorpan. Put several thousand miles on it since with no issues. Will be taking a sample soon, to establish a baseline.
I apologize for the less than optimal cell phone camera, and my crummy formatting of this post. I did have some issues getting this all to work.
#6
Overkill, please post all the part numbers that you ordered, as I have been wanting to do this as well , but as mentioned, the AMSOIL website does not list anything for 2011's.
I see you are running the EABP-110, which full flow filter are you running on there? Also, could you post a pic from the side of the truck so we can see how far down the filter protrudes from the bottom of the frame rail? Thanks.
I see you are running the EABP-110, which full flow filter are you running on there? Also, could you post a pic from the side of the truck so we can see how far down the filter protrudes from the bottom of the frame rail? Thanks.
#7
BMK-23 bypass kit (universal)
BK-300 engine spin-on adapter (1" x 16 same as Cummins I think)
EaO-26 full flow filter
BE-110 bypass element
Sampling petcock (didn't get yet)
API CJ-4 Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Oil
At least I think those were the numbers. The whole thing sits way above the bottom of the frame rail (+/- 4"). I did not want it to stick below the rail, and if it did, I would have turned the housing sideways, which would have given me the clearance, but possibly increased loading forces with the long bypass element, and crack the housing.
I had a dealer in Northern Ohio who is very knowledgeable, help me with the list of parts. I then rented a garage and some help to install while I was on vacation there. I had no choice in timing since the "change oil" message came up on the dash while I was traveling, and I planned on doing it eventually anyway. Changed the oil first, then added bypass system a week later.
BK-300 engine spin-on adapter (1" x 16 same as Cummins I think)
EaO-26 full flow filter
BE-110 bypass element
Sampling petcock (didn't get yet)
API CJ-4 Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Oil
At least I think those were the numbers. The whole thing sits way above the bottom of the frame rail (+/- 4"). I did not want it to stick below the rail, and if it did, I would have turned the housing sideways, which would have given me the clearance, but possibly increased loading forces with the long bypass element, and crack the housing.
I had a dealer in Northern Ohio who is very knowledgeable, help me with the list of parts. I then rented a garage and some help to install while I was on vacation there. I had no choice in timing since the "change oil" message came up on the dash while I was traveling, and I planned on doing it eventually anyway. Changed the oil first, then added bypass system a week later.
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#8
Thanks for the part numbers.
In the one picture it already looks like the long filter extends below the frame rail by more than an inch or two?
The whole thing sits way above the bottom of the frame rail (+/- 4"). I did not want it to stick below the rail, and if it did, I would have turned the housing sideways, which would have given me the clearance, but possibly increased loading forces with the long bypass element, and crack the housing.
In the one picture it already looks like the long filter extends below the frame rail by more than an inch or two?
#9
Yes, it's below the frame by several inches with that length element. But what I meant to say was that it is above the transmission crossmember's lowest point by about 4 inches, so the clearance is good. You can always opt for the shorter catridge filter, and replace it more often. It is the same setup, you just fine tune the height with the appropriate bypass element.
#10
#11
Is there any reason that you went with that kit instead of the kit that is specifically made for Tha 6.7 powerstroke
BMK-23 bypass kit (universal)
BK-300 engine spin-on adapter (1" x 16 same as Cummins I think)
EaO-26 full flow filter
BE-110 bypass element
Sampling petcock (didn't get yet)
API CJ-4 Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Oil
At least I think those were the numbers. The whole thing sits way above the bottom of the frame rail (+/- 4"). I did not want it to stick below the rail, and if it did, I would have turned the housing sideways, which would have given me the clearance, but possibly increased loading forces with the long bypass element, and crack the housing.
I had a dealer in Northern Ohio who is very knowledgeable, help me with the list of parts. I then rented a garage and some help to install while I was on vacation there. I had no choice in timing since the "change oil" message came up on the dash while I was traveling, and I planned on doing it eventually anyway. Changed the oil first, then added bypass system a week later.
BK-300 engine spin-on adapter (1" x 16 same as Cummins I think)
EaO-26 full flow filter
BE-110 bypass element
Sampling petcock (didn't get yet)
API CJ-4 Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Oil
At least I think those were the numbers. The whole thing sits way above the bottom of the frame rail (+/- 4"). I did not want it to stick below the rail, and if it did, I would have turned the housing sideways, which would have given me the clearance, but possibly increased loading forces with the long bypass element, and crack the housing.
I had a dealer in Northern Ohio who is very knowledgeable, help me with the list of parts. I then rented a garage and some help to install while I was on vacation there. I had no choice in timing since the "change oil" message came up on the dash while I was traveling, and I planned on doing it eventually anyway. Changed the oil first, then added bypass system a week later.
#13
#14
#15
random search... and then a chat with an amsoil dealer buddy.
found this link - one kit nowadays.
AMSOIL Ford 6.7L Engine Dual Remote By-Pass Filter Kit
found this link - one kit nowadays.
AMSOIL Ford 6.7L Engine Dual Remote By-Pass Filter Kit