Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Performance, Engines & Troubleshooting > Modular V10 (6.8l)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Modular V10 (6.8l) SPONSORED BY:

Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 01-22-2011, 12:09 AM
yz450fpilot's Avatar
yz450fpilot yz450fpilot is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Cerritos
Posts: 44
yz450fpilot is starting off with a positive reputation.
V10 Break-In

Just got my truck back with a new V10 installed. Looking for tips on how to break-in the motor. Should I take a long drive on the highway or just do normal driving in city and highway combined. How many miles should I go before I change the oil? How many miles should I put on the motor before I tow the toy hauler?

Thanks for your feedback!!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-22-2011, 12:55 AM
rikosintie rikosintie is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Rancho Cucamonga USA
Posts: 218
rikosintie is starting off with a positive reputation.
What was the cost for the new V10?

Did you install it yourself?
Michael
__________________
'02 EX, V10, Donahoe Racing 5" lift, Gibson Headers with Y pipe, 5Star Tuner, Procomp 35x12.50-17 All Terrain, Procomp 1059 17x9 Wheels, Staun Bead Locks, Firestone Air Bags, Yukon 4.88 Gears, ARB air lockers F/R, Mag Hytec Diff Cover, Procomp Light bar with three 9" lights, Prodigy Brake Controller, Reese DC WD Hitch.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-22-2011, 02:41 AM
CraigOutdoors's Avatar
CraigOutdoors CraigOutdoors is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 544
CraigOutdoors is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I was just reading about this the other day, and now I can't find the article. Basically, the point of break in is to seat the piston rings with the cylinder wall so they form a nice tight seal. You want to vary your speed, avoid heavy towing for the first 500 or so miles, don't spend a long time idling, but let your truck cool back down a bit after running it under load before you shut it off.

For the break in period, you should allow your truck to cool all the way before starting it, and warm up all the way before shutting it off. Don't run up the street to 7-11 and shut it off. Don't let it sit for 10-20 mins then come back out and start it up again.

Basically, you want even smooth heat cycles that heat the truck all the way up and cool them down cyclically, without overheating it, which can glaze the walls and without underheating, which can cause something similar to glazing, but the name escapes me at the moment, which also results in blow by, oil contamination, loss of potential power, reduction in oil life, and overall reduction in engine life. Hope that helps some.

In short, you don't want just a nice long highway, or just city driving. You want to mix it up, load it, but don't over load it, and be kind on the heat up and cool down cycles for the first few thousand miles. The longer you can go doing that, the more power and life you'll get out of the motor. And you'll use less oil.
__________________
All advice and opinions come with a lifetime warranty. Should they ever fail, a new one will be provided free of charge.

'03 F250 Reg Cab LB Fx4 v10
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-22-2011, 11:37 AM
yz450fpilot's Avatar
yz450fpilot yz450fpilot is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Cerritos
Posts: 44
yz450fpilot is starting off with a positive reputation.
rikosintie - I had it installed at a Ford Truck Center. Total cost was 6800.00 that included oil, coolant, belt, and some hoses. As a side note I chose the new motor over a rebuild because of the warranty which is 3 years - 100,000 miles. I felt the extra cost of a new motor was worth the warranty.

CraigOutdoors - Thanks for the information this is some thing I've been looking for but was unable to find.

Thank you!!!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-22-2011, 12:18 PM
spud57's Avatar
spud57 spud57 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 325
spud57 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Curious, what would the difference be breaking in a new engine (not rebuilt) as opposed to buying a new vehicle with no miles on it?

I don't know the answer, that's why I'm asking.

S
__________________
2011 F250 Lariat CC SB 6.2L
2006 Escape XLT 2WD
2010 Outback 321FRL
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-22-2011, 01:56 PM
Moto Mel's Avatar
Moto Mel Moto Mel is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chesapeake, Va.
Posts: 4,574
Moto Mel has a great reputation on FTE.Moto Mel has a great reputation on FTE.Moto Mel has a great reputation on FTE.Moto Mel has a great reputation on FTE.Moto Mel has a great reputation on FTE.
The formula that I have used for many years and vehicles is to run them normally in city driving for the first 500 miles under 60 mph using petroleum oil, change the oil to a good grade synthetic, I like Mobil 1, and then drive normal for the next 1500 miles at no more than 70 mph and change the oil again and of course always using a good oil filter. I have never had a problem with high oil consumption between changes or an engine problem that was not self induced due to racing and over revving the engine.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-24-2011, 07:46 PM
mwsF250 mwsF250 is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wayyy NoCal, USA
Posts: 2,564
mwsF250 has a great reputation on FTE.mwsF250 has a great reputation on FTE.mwsF250 has a great reputation on FTE.mwsF250 has a great reputation on FTE.mwsF250 has a great reputation on FTE.
CraigOutdoors nailed it!

LOTS of variation, avoid constant throttle settings. Avoid sustained high rpms. Avoid heavy throttle at high rpms. Long highway trips are the worst thing. Well, that and bouncing it off the rev limiter in neutral....

My other favorite tip to help guarantee a low oil consuming engine: Every now and then, make her grunt. Give it about half throttle - just enough to make her work hard but not quite enough to downshift and rev out. If you can get her to accelerate "briskly" while revving from 1500 to 4000 rpms and then just roll off gently and then drive easy for 5 mins after that (for cooling), perfect.
The goal is to build up some very good cylinder pressures to force the rings against the cylinder walls and form a good seal. I believe the root cause for most "oil burners" was being babied too much when breaking in and the rings never sealed correctly.
__________________
'99 F250 V10 Super Cab Long Bed 4x4. '06 short block, PI conversion, modded airbox, 5 Star custom tune, FM50BB, 315/75-16 GY Duratracs, mild lift, 4.30 LSD, Ride-Rite bags, on board air, Rancho RS9000 w/MyRide, under bed subwoofer, 160 amp Quick Start large case alternator
Why, yes, I am some kind of geek engineer. Thank you for asking.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-24-2011, 07:48 PM
mwsF250 mwsF250 is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Wayyy NoCal, USA
Posts: 2,564
mwsF250 has a great reputation on FTE.mwsF250 has a great reputation on FTE.mwsF250 has a great reputation on FTE.mwsF250 has a great reputation on FTE.mwsF250 has a great reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spud57 View Post
Curious, what would the difference be breaking in a new engine (not rebuilt) as opposed to buying a new vehicle with no miles on it?

I don't know the answer, that's why I'm asking.

S

In practice, none. When breaking in a new vehicle, you're breaking in a lot of other parts as well, but the engine is the most sensitive.
__________________
'99 F250 V10 Super Cab Long Bed 4x4. '06 short block, PI conversion, modded airbox, 5 Star custom tune, FM50BB, 315/75-16 GY Duratracs, mild lift, 4.30 LSD, Ride-Rite bags, on board air, Rancho RS9000 w/MyRide, under bed subwoofer, 160 amp Quick Start large case alternator
Why, yes, I am some kind of geek engineer. Thank you for asking.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-24-2011, 11:04 PM
CraigOutdoors's Avatar
CraigOutdoors CraigOutdoors is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 544
CraigOutdoors is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yz450fpilot View Post
rikosintie - I had it installed at a Ford Truck Center. Total cost was 6800.00 that included oil, coolant, belt, and some hoses. As a side note I chose the new motor over a rebuild because of the warranty which is 3 years - 100,000 miles. I felt the extra cost of a new motor was worth the warranty.

CraigOutdoors - Thanks for the information this is some thing I've been looking for but was unable to find.

Thank you!!!
No problem. Happy to help. Congrats on the new engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mwsF250 View Post
In practice, none. When breaking in a new vehicle, you're breaking in a lot of other parts as well, but the engine is the most sensitive.
What he said. And what he said earlier about pushing it a little bit then going easy throttle for a bit too. I was trying to say that earlier, but he said it better. Thanks for the clarification.
__________________
All advice and opinions come with a lifetime warranty. Should they ever fail, a new one will be provided free of charge.

'03 F250 Reg Cab LB Fx4 v10
Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2011, 11:04 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How long for engine break in to max MPG nickstl77 2009 - 2014 F150 33 11-19-2012 08:36 AM
How Fast Should I Drive?? AtypclEngr 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 22 08-25-2012 06:25 PM
Break-in Period before towing? Rxman 2004 - 2008 F150 14 04-12-2006 03:55 PM
Break-in period hodogg69 Ranger & B-Series 8 08-02-2002 06:24 PM
Break-in on a new '02 PSD dmedk 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 14 03-08-2002 11:01 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Performance, Engines & Troubleshooting > Modular V10 (6.8l)

Tags
2010, break, change, f100, f250, ford, high, highway, miles, moter, oil, rpms, v10

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


Participate In The Forums

Create new posts and participate in discussions. It's free!

Sign Up »





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup