Okay, quick update . . .

We had unusually high temperatures yesterday, (33 degrees) so since it was above freezing AND the sun was out, I went to try and start the truck again.

I put some WD-40 in the key hole and cranked. The truck wouldn't start, but the starter wouldn't stop. It cranked for about a solid minute while I dashed out and grabbed some wrenches and disconnected the batteries. Finally, it slowed and died. SO frustrating.

I definitely need to disassemble my steering column to get to that actuator and ignition rod. It just feels super gummy and slow.

My shop manual isn't very specific as to how to go about doing this . . . I have a tilt wheel and its a 1990 F250 diesel.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Unless that actuating rod BROKE, it sounds like either your switch was sticking or your solenoid(most likely) was sticking. If it was just a STICKY actuating rod the engine would have quit cranking as soon as the key was pulled back.

I'm not familiar with how the diesel is set up under the hood with the batteries and solenoid. As a for instance with the gas engine set up, if the switch was sticking there is a small slip on wire on the solenoid that you can pull off that would disconnect the power from the switch. If the solenoid was sticking, a few swift hits with the side of your hand will usually release it.

If you can figure out how the diesel set up works, or if someone who reads this can explain it, it will likely save you much frustration.

 

88n94,

Thank you so much for your response . . . Even though it is more likely that the solonoid is sticking, I am nearly positive that it is the switch that is sticking.

I am trying to figure out how to remove the ignition key switch, but my Ford shop manual doesn't provide very detailed info on the dissassembly procedure.

How can I access the switch?

 

If it is the same as with the gas engine, and I don't know if it is or not, the Haynes repair manual gives very good instructions. I did the one in my '88 F-150, with a tilt steering wheel over 10 years ago. It wasn't that easy but the instructions were good.

Before you just go and replace the switch, I would try to figure out how to troubleshoot it so you know for sure it's the switch. I do agree with the others the actuating rod needs to be lubricated before it ends up broken.

Edited to say: Actually it was the actuating rod I replaced, NOT the switch. Same area though.

 

If it was me I would put some WD40 on my key and see if it makes any difference. Just don't flood your switch with lube.

 

here is a post that I found very helpful when replacing my actuator.
FullSizeBronco.com - 78 - 96 Ford Bronco offroad club, forums, tech, installs

I know that you dont need to replace your actuator, but at least you can see how it all sits in there and if you wish, can disassemble as much as you want to get some lube in there. I dont think that spraying anything down the key hole is going to solve any problems, as you can see its not the point where friction occurs.

 

Good post! The actuator in my son's truck is broken too, but replacing it looks a bit too complicated for the two of us to tackle. I will be sure to show his the link you provided. It might give him enough courage to try fixing it right. For now he just unbolted the switch from the column and is using the rod to start the truck keylessly.

 

I left last night to get gas in my truck, filled up, I've always had a sluggish switch at the point of starter engagement, until now. Now I have nothing there, no resistance, and no starter. I can still use the ignition switch, it does everything it's supposed to, except start the truck. So I got the truck home by jumping the sylenoid... I picked up a $8 starter button at Tractor Supply, now I seek information...
Which wires do I need to jump to make this work? I haven't dug into this yet, getting ready to now...

Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks in advace!