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  #1  
Old 01-15-2011, 11:49 PM
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125,000 Miles. What Should Be Done?

I have a '96 Bronco with the 5.0. It just rolled over to 125K and I'm wondering what maintenance should be done on it other then the norm (oil+filter, air filter, fuel filter, brakes, trans fluid). Its actually my father's but he works 110 hour weeks so he has little time to devote to it. Trying to help the old man out so any thoughts would be appreciated. This is our 2nd Bronco and shes staying with us till the grave.
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Old 01-16-2011, 12:55 AM
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Transmission should be watched closely... the E4OD has a hard time with high mileage. If you have it serviced or do a fluid and filter, drain the converter as well. The TC's are just as hefty as the transmission itself and a lot of old fluid stays in the converter otherwise. Have a look under the air filter when you replace it. Check for excessive motor oil in the bottom of the box. Its a sign of a dead PCV valve or worse, dying rings and valve seals. If it doesn't see 4WD often make engaging the t-case and the front driveline a monthly habit if only for a few miles.
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Old 01-16-2011, 01:07 AM
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I've also been noticing that on start up, it sounds and feels like its choking. Not like it needs a battery, alternator, or starter, just like you have to give it some gas. Could this be due to clogged injectors or something else? Im not much of a mechanic but i know a little bit. Thanks a lot for the help btw.
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Old 01-16-2011, 06:09 AM
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Even if no codes are shown for the ECT and the ACT remove them and put them in your oven beside an oven thermometer. Compare resistance reading at different temps to the chart.

Ford Fuel Injection » Sensors
Ford Fuel Injection » Air Charge Temperature (ACT)
Ford Fuel Injection » Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
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If your ignition control module is a black Motorcraft (CCD system) do not replace it with a gray one (Push Start system). The wiring harness is different.

FTE is great! Be a supporter to keep this forum going. 94 5.8 EB, towing package, K & N drop in, MSD Blaster, 9 mm Ford Racing Wires, mechanical oil and temp guages and the rest all stock.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:02 AM
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Yes Connor, it could be clogged injectors.
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1993 Special Edition Bronco: 5.0lt V8, E4OD Auto, MM Supreme manual hub lockers and a sweet roof tent, ROTW in 2/9/09
My Write-ups: Ford Steering Box Rebuild / Ford Front End Rebuild and auto hubs replacement / Ford Rear Drum Brakes / Ford E4OD Cooler & Shift Kit mods, drain-refill procedures R.I.P. Steve, you will be deeply missed my friend
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Old 01-16-2011, 04:01 PM
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A dirty IAC (Idle Air Control valve and solenoid) will cause stumbling during cold idle as well. Cleaning is fairly uncomplicated, just be careful not to damage the electrical portion of the assembly.
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:24 PM
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On top of the maintenance that has to be done, I went to engage the 4wd yesterday and nothing. The dash light comes on and says its in 4wd but nothing. I believe the auto-hubs are to blame as I hear they are infamous for crapping out. The list just gets longer...
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:48 PM
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Mine came from a travelling saleswoman. Electric push button 4WD had not been engaged in years. I kept pushing buttons a few minutes at a time and the motor finally freed up. Now I try to do it monthly to keep it free.
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If your ignition control module is a black Motorcraft (CCD system) do not replace it with a gray one (Push Start system). The wiring harness is different.

FTE is great! Be a supporter to keep this forum going. 94 5.8 EB, towing package, K & N drop in, MSD Blaster, 9 mm Ford Racing Wires, mechanical oil and temp guages and the rest all stock.
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:31 PM
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Hey Grey, which product would you use to clean the IAC?.
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1993 Special Edition Bronco: 5.0lt V8, E4OD Auto, MM Supreme manual hub lockers and a sweet roof tent, ROTW in 2/9/09
My Write-ups: Ford Steering Box Rebuild / Ford Front End Rebuild and auto hubs replacement / Ford Rear Drum Brakes / Ford E4OD Cooler & Shift Kit mods, drain-refill procedures R.I.P. Steve, you will be deeply missed my friend
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:33 PM
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Remove it and be prepared to replace the gasket between it and the throttle body.

Cover/seal up the solenoid with a plastic bag and electrical tape.

Using a throttle body cleaner that is safe for sealed or glazed throttle bodies. Regular carb cleaner can destroy the coating that seals the relatively porous metal of the valve body. Clean the valve thoroughly with the cleaner and a small natural bristle brush (a synthetic bristle brush can dissolve in the cleaner).

As to a specific product, one is as good as another in my experience.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:33 PM
 
 
 
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