m5r2 shifter rebuild help !!! Fixed !!!
#1
m5r2 shifter rebuild help !!! Fixed !!!
Hi Guys,
I'm in the process of rebuilding my 1991 F150 M5R2 shifter with new bushings and pin kit and can't seem to figure out how to remove the piece of all thread holding the shifter arm to the shifter so that I can get the top bushing and new cover plate on.
Who has done one and knows where there are instructions?
Thanks,
FC
Ok Guys for a reference the piece of all thread is in fact a retainer that has a nut on the right\passenger side and shows threads on both sides giving the appearance of being one single all thread. Once you remove the nut or losen to the outter edge you may have to heat it slightly but a little tap on the nut will knock it loose and remove the nut then slide the the retainer with shoulder out to the left\drivers side. Then the shifter slips out and you can then use all the rebuild parts in the kit to tighten up the shifter and make is shift like new again!
I'm in the process of rebuilding my 1991 F150 M5R2 shifter with new bushings and pin kit and can't seem to figure out how to remove the piece of all thread holding the shifter arm to the shifter so that I can get the top bushing and new cover plate on.
Who has done one and knows where there are instructions?
Thanks,
FC
Ok Guys for a reference the piece of all thread is in fact a retainer that has a nut on the right\passenger side and shows threads on both sides giving the appearance of being one single all thread. Once you remove the nut or losen to the outter edge you may have to heat it slightly but a little tap on the nut will knock it loose and remove the nut then slide the the retainer with shoulder out to the left\drivers side. Then the shifter slips out and you can then use all the rebuild parts in the kit to tighten up the shifter and make is shift like new again!
Last edited by fcmtnbiker; 01-15-2011 at 11:55 AM. Reason: clearer meaning
#2
#3
#4
I'd be curious to know how you can disassemble the gear shift lever itself. I have a really nice shift lever from my old M5 that I'd like to use on my ZF. I haven't figured a way to separate the upper part from the lower part of the lever. I've tried heating the lever with a heat gun but I didn't want to go so hot that it would damage the paint.
The **** OTH, came off without any issue.
The **** OTH, came off without any issue.
#5
mine was pretty rusty and they are in fact not bolts and will not thread out from the left side but instead are a double threaded shoulder bolt that once the nut is removed can be tapped with a hammer from right to left to remove. I could post some pictures if anyone wants?
#6
That is correct you use the nut from the right side and move it to the left side, tighten and it is suppose to loosen the shoulder. Mine was old enough and rusted enough I had to heat it and tap it slightly on the round casting area to pop it loose. I basically heated it with a propane torch for a couple of minutes and then turned until tight applying about 30 - 40 pds of pressure and then using a small ball peen tapped on the round casting area the is sticking up... (that is sticking up if you are mounted in a vise). Then turned the nut about a half turn tapped again and it popped out.
#7
I'd be curious to know how you can disassemble the gear shift lever itself. I have a really nice shift lever from my old M5 that I'd like to use on my ZF. I haven't figured a way to separate the upper part from the lower part of the lever. I've tried heating the lever with a heat gun but I didn't want to go so hot that it would damage the paint.
The **** OTH, came off without any issue.
The **** OTH, came off without any issue.
That is correct you use the nut from the right side and move it to the left side, tighten and it is suppose to loosen the shoulder. Mine was old enough and rusted enough I had to heat it and tap it slightly on the round casting area to pop it loose. I basically heated it with a propane torch for a couple of minutes and then turned until tight applying about 30 - 40 pds of pressure and then using a small ball peen tapped on the round casting area the is sticking up... (that is sticking up if you are mounted in a vise). Then turned the nut about a half turn tapped again and it popped out.
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