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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #1  
Old 01-14-2011, 11:00 PM
tennesseeike tennesseeike is offline
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Power Improvements/5.0 Speed Density-Update

It has been a while since I posted, have finished the upgrades(working as time permitted), and I figured I would “give back” to the community info on what performance modifications work well. in the stock anemic 87-91 5.0 /302 speed density fuel injected engine-or at least what works well for me.

It’s long, but I am detail oriented !!

First –thanks most of all for the input of knowledgeable members with real world experience. I took this advice along with TONS of research, talking to Comp Cams engineers and a couple of local Mustang gurus before selecting/buying parts.

The Objective: More trailer pulling power-and all around power in general.while keeping decent MPG and driveability.

The Truck: 1991 2wd F150 XLT Lariat extended cab-5.0/E40D-3.50 axle. 50,000 miles on longblock. 3’ exhaust splitting to 2.5” duals after muffler

I have owned the truck since 96 and was a daily driver till 2005 80 miles per day commute.

Now driven on weekends, was purchased by my father new (still have the window sticker) Truck has been used but never abused. I do all my own repairs and maintenance. It’s a keeper for life.


Ok-here are the parts I selected. All were bought from JEGS, Advance Auto, or Summit:

Comp Cams 31-255-5 (XE250H-14)
Comp Cams 942-16 Valve Springs.
Comp Cams 3120 Timing set (double row roller chain with 3 keyway crank gear)
Comp Cams 832-16 Hydraulic Lifters
Crane cams 99170-1 Pedestal rocker arm shim kits (to set lifter preload
Summit G9035 Shorty Headers (reboxed Pacesetters)
Percy’s 66018 reusable aluminum header gaskets
Stage 8 Header Locking Bolt Kit 868-8913A
Summit Plug Boot Heat Protector sleeves 350119
Accel Dist Cap(Advance Auto)
Autolite Professional series plug wire set (Advance Auto)
Autolite 24 plugs
Comp cams 159 Cam break in oil additive
Oil (Shell Rotella 15W40), coolant, gaskets, etc-Advance Auto parts


Special Tools:
Jegs Degree Wheel Kit
Starrett Dial Indicator 0-1”
Magnetic Base for Above

Truck idles and cruises glass smooth with a noticeable power improvement from 2000-4500 RPM. Settled at 14 degrees initial timing thru trial and error.

I had a local muffler shop build a “Y” pipe and removed all catalytic converters.

I’m happy with the truck and the parts I selected.


Here’s some things I ran into worthy of note:

-Cam degreed ½ degree retarded (close enough)

-Valve Springs-the Comp Cams Springs will not work with exhaust valve rotators. Despite all the disclaimers on a cam install with old valvesprings Comp puts out I managed to get a Comp Tech to OK the stock springs with this mild cam. So I have a new set of springs iand stem seals if anybody needs them.....

-Lifter preload-According to Comp Cams needed to be .020-.060, so I learned there’s more to just bolting down the pedestal rocker arms. Pedestals are shimmed if needed to fall in this range.

It boils down to this: Each ½ turn on bolt beyond zero lash = .030”

I set mine at least .030 but no more than .060

Does it really matter-I don’t know, but with all the flat tappet wear reports I was going with Comp’s recommendations to the letter of the law.

-Removed emissions air pump and all plumbing. Shim A/C compressor 3/8” and a Dayco 5060890 belt fits within tensioner limits. Available at Advance Auto. A ½” shorter belt would probably not require shimming but was not in stock at parts house.

-Cam break in-ran for 30 minutes @ 2500 rpm. Added Comp Cams 159 break in additive.

-Set distributor to 10 balancer deg with rotor under #1. Fired right up @2500 but began to run VERY hot. Headers began glowing red along with exhaust pipes! Began manually advancing distributor and it began to cool-luckily the only damage was fried plug wire boots.

I assume EEC-IV does not advance timing when vehicle is stationary-timing was severely retarded ??

-Intake manifold was a sludgy tarry mess all the way down. Parts washer, wire brush, and pressure washer and a lot of elbow grease. Fuel injectors were almost 100% blocked/surrounded by carbon deposits. Not sure if all this comes from PCV or EGR?

-Relocated PCV hose barb from rear of air plenum to middle of pass side on plenum. Simple tap job. I understand there have been problems of rear cylinders digesting a gulp of oil and self destructing……it was a suggested mod. Oddly enough I lost #8 cylinder compression and had this longblock installed. Had no time to do it myself. I remember detonation for a while before the damage so it could have been a slug of oil..

-Lifter bleed down….I had 1 or more of the Comp Cams lifters that would bleed down after sitting > 5 hrs, tick tick tick for 1 minute.

I pulled them all and installed Sealed Power USA made lifters from Advance Auto parts….no more ticking.

-Used 6” 1200F heat resistant sleeves on my plug wire boots to keep headers from damaging plug wires

I realize this is a novel, but have tried to provide a detailed report on what works good on a speed density 302/5.0. I see the question a lot and hope this knowledge gained helps somebody along.


I am considering installing a pair of GT40 heads to replace the E7TE’s. I don’t know if it would be worthwhile as my RPM’s would be 2700-3000 w/ OD off pulling my trailer-E7TE’s probably flow just fine for that RPM-or no-

Any Suggestions?

Also this truck is WAY too loud-kinda grown out of the glasspack fascination. Anybody try a Magnaflow without cats?

Questions or feedback welcomed-

Brent
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  #2  
Old 01-15-2011, 12:03 AM
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I don't see you mention it, so i ask, did you remember to disconnect the SPOUT before setting the 10° BTDC timing?.
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:23 AM
tennesseeike tennesseeike is offline
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That's a good obsevation-yes I did. I also removed TFI module and relocated on remote OEM heat sink.
Pretty much a waste of time, mine is allways cool, despite all the tales of overheating.

Oddly enough it is the factory installed TFI module from back in 91-go figure??
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Old 01-15-2011, 10:01 AM
95F150Guy 95F150Guy is offline
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Also this truck is WAY too loud-kinda grown out of the glasspack fascination. Anybody try a Magnaflow without cats?

I kept the factory Y pipe, cutting the cats off and cutting off the O2 pipe that connects between the two. I welded on two pipes running back to a Magnaflow dual in/out beast of a muffler(X chamber). From there ran two pipes back to duals out the back; over axle and turned out the sides. I welded in a new bung for the O2 sensor(one bank). It is suprisingly quiet even though you can see straight through the muffler, but it has a nice crackle we you get on it.
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Old 07-23-2011, 01:37 AM
mlskidoo mlskidoo is offline
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Thumbs up Appreciated

Thanks for entering this detail, many of these mods get forgotten and the part #'s really help to see what's working.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:50 PM
Redbeard55 Redbeard55 is offline
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tennesseeike good info thanks.

I was wondering how do you measure lifter preload with a pedestal mount?

Also, Do you remember the tap size for the relocated PCV hose barb? I have zero psi on #8 cyl *&@#($*& and 170 psi on the rest, so this is something I am going to do!

Just pulled the motor Sunday and getting ready to tear it down this week if it cools off a bit . . .

Thanks
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:50 AM
tennesseeike tennesseeike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbeard55 View Post
tennesseeike good info thanks.

I was wondering how do you measure lifter preload with a pedestal mount?

Also, Do you remember the tap size for the relocated PCV hose barb? I have zero psi on #8 cyl *&@#($*& and 170 psi on the rest, so this is something I am going to do!

Just pulled the motor Sunday and getting ready to tear it down this week if it cools off a bit . . .

Thanks
Sorry for the long wait to respond,

I measured lifter preload with a dial indicator and magnetic base-1 lifter. My goal was to see how much is 1 turn of the pedestal bolt (after 0 lash) compressess lifter. You can feel 0 lash by rotating pedestal bolt with fingers while rotating pushrod.

1 turn = .060"-1/2 turn = .030

So you need to shim so bolt is at correct torque with 1/2-1 turn past 0 lash.

I would not go past 1 turn.

Shims and different length pushrods are available.

Tap size-whatever 3/8 hose barb fitting you have. I believe this was 3/8 NPT
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:36 AM
TexasGuy001 TexasGuy001 is offline
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That is a long post, but all the details make it a worthwhile read. I'm sure it will help others.

I have a larger Magnaflow 3 inch single to 2.5 inch tailpipes with 3.5 inch tips. It sounds good. I have the front cat. You can hear it in the link in my signature.
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:15 PM
Henry Ford the 8th Henry Ford the 8th is offline
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suggestions

Is the 5.0 Y-pipe like the 5.8? LH pipe crosses over infront of flywheel, siamesed with RH pipe in over-under fashion below pass. footwell and into cat. O2sensor in crossover pipe ahead of siamese joint, I think 5.0 has O2Sensor in manifold? Anyway, if it is similar, unbolt coupling at rear of cat and remove Y-pipe from manifolds so you can set it on the ground with the outlet pointing up. Use a long chisel (2ft.) and a big hammer and bust up the ceramic matrix inside the cat, stopping frequently to dump out the chunks. When you are done you will have a free flowing Y-pipe with resonator chamber. Makes it sound like a motorboat! I have an OEM type replacement muffler which has 3" inlet and dual outlets (smaller?). I used a CompCam 303 flat tappet cam in my 5.8 build and got real good results with an Accel fuel pressure regulator turned up to 47psi KOEO. 5.0 will never have as much low end torque for towing as long stroke 5.8, but you should get a big HP improvement from stock. Your motor has knock sensors, so does using premium let it run better?
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:46 PM
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nice read and infomitive!!
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:40 PM
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Nothing like opening up a very old thread LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But to the Original Poster, Do you by chance know the Vacuum at idle to 1500 RPM with your mods (Manifold Vacuum Measurement)????

Kind of curious as to what that cam did to your vacuum measurements...
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:09 PM
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This is one of these old threads that need to be revived every now and then, good find.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Encho View Post
This is one of these old threads that need to be revived every now and then, good find.
X2 not I got some ideas for mine.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:07 PM
 
 
 
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