Drivers side head, back at the fire wall there is a port in the head facing straight up.
That is where the controller should be located.

 

Hi havent had much time to mess with it but I still cannot locate it probably going to have the local technical school use it to let the kids learn how to replace the controller. No labor charges, parts only!! Im going to mess with it for another week or 2 since they cant get it in yet so ill let you know how things go. thanks

 

Motorcraft/Beru for the glo plugs. I have an 87 F250 and couldn't find the controler. Come to find out I had the new system that bolts to the back of the engine behind the CDR which is behind the aircleaner. I don't know if the PO changed it or what but after changing the box it has worked fine. If you can't find the screw in controler you might have the new system which Dave has pictured as the second picture, the new controler complete with writing. I went to OReilly's and they only listed it as a 1990.

 

ok new here now on to my problem glow plug light comes on for 8-10sec light comes on with the clicking sound light goes out got power to gp selnoid no power to glow plugs any help will be appericated

 

tow pro 570,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

The glow plug light on for 8 to 10 seconds is when the glow plugs are heating.
When the light goes out, no power to the glow plugs.

8 to 10 seconds sounds about right unless it is very cold where you are.
You should try to start as soon as the light goes out.

Does the engine start OK or are you having start problems?

 

truck won't start have no power out to the glow plugs, selnoid has power on ign side and battery side ,no power to glow plugs,light comes on click light goes out with out a click no power to glow plugs

 

Get a glow plug relay for an 86 F350 diesel, then change the relay on top of the controller.

Put the wires back on exactly like they are now.

Cost should be around 25 dollars.
If you get the one for your 92, it will probably be a complete controller/relay and cost over 100 dollars.

I would guess the contacts have burnt in the relay you have now.
NAPA should have one in stock.

Make sure they don't give you a starter relay, they are different electrically and have a small I and S, one by each of the two small terminals.

 

Ok, I have a question. In the wiring between the starter relay and the glowplug relay, there is a plug. I'm not getting juice from the starter relay through to the glowplug relay which I hear is quite common due to burnt wires. My question is this: can I put a toggle switch from in the cab with juice and hook it onto the glowplug terminal on the glowplug relay? If I flip the switch juice will go there, and when I flip it off will the glowplugs have cycled?

 

Are you talking about the main power wire going to the battery terminal of the glow plug relay?

I just checked your user page, I guess we are talking about your 90 model?

Two different glow plug systems, relays in different locations and wired differently.
So when talking glow plug systems, the year of the truck is critical.

You are talking about the connector circled in red in the top picture?
It is very common for a bit of resistance in the connector to cause it to get hot.
After it gets hot a couple times, the connections in the connector carry little or no power to the glow plug relay battery terminal.
When the glow plugs system is heating and all of the glow plugs are working, it draws 192 amps.
So the switch is a bad idea unless you run big wire and a high dollar switch that can handle 200 amps.
A relay is the only way to control the power to the glow plugs.

If the connector looks like it has been hot, melted and deformed plastic, the repair involves cutting the two large wires which should be yellow or tan on your truck close to the connector on both sides.
Now splice them around the connector and insulate the splice so it can not short out.
Once you get full power to the relay, it should work like it is supposed to.

I also have to say that the top picture is an 86 or older glow plug system and there are a few extra parts, so yours don't look exactly like that.
But the basic locations for the engine to chassis wiring harness connector is the same.
Wire colors are different and the 7.3 has more wires in the connector.

 

ok changed the relay [starter selnoid looking thing] truck started on 2nd try but the power wire from starter selnoid got hot and the metal going from relay to the modual also got hot looks like a Z that is normal right

 

How hot?

If the glow plugs are all working, 192 amps across 2 - 10 AWG wires.
Yes they will get warm.
But if they got smoking hot, I think you may have a shorted glow plug or a short in the glow plug harness.

 

you could hold them and not get burnt but hot and i also got a buzzing sound what side does the power wires go on on the starter selnoid on fender the right side where theirs about 4 others or on the front side towards the grill where the power goes to starter and the two black wires that come out of the glow plug harness go to the base of the z or to intake

 

The starter relay was used as a power distribution point on the 7.3 trucks.
Power from the battery positive terminal to the starter relay, the power from there to the glow plug relay, several other power wires and the wire from the alternator all tie together on the same bolt.

The side the wire to the starter is on should only have one wire on it that goes to the starter.

Power in to the glow plug relay on the terminal across from the metal strip.
Power out to the glow plug harness goes on the end of the metal strip away from the relay.

One black wire that comes out of the controller under the relay goes to the relay/controller mounting bolt in the intake.

The 2 wires that go to the glow plugs should be either tan or yellow unless someone has rewired the harness.
One of them would be left bank glow plugs, the other would be right bank glow plugs.

 

ok got one part taken care of that power is on correct now what about the humming noise and i have 2 heave black wires back at the glow plug controller the lined upright at the bottom bolt of the metal z strap also the z looking thing supposed to get hot

 

and i have that little ground to the mounting bolt of controller