Why not present your info in a non-confrontational way, instead of being a d... about it?
On the Daytons, you are too literal, as it should be obvious that you don't mix sizes, or are you too obnoxious to realize that? I waas merely stating that the same size will mount on any manufacturer, like the Chevy parts truck that my uncle wrecked with 9.00-20's will mount on the Ford that I recently picked up with daytons 9.00-20's will swap rims. Only an idiot would think you could mix different sizes...

While there are variant,s most rims on the heavies are 10 bolt, too literal again. Medium duty trucks are where the most variants come from.

If I am wrong, simply present your info in a helpful, meaningful way, rather than coming across the way you just did, you were way out of line in your first post, and just seem to like to keep it going. So I go my timelines wrong, but I have worked with this stuff for a long time too, so whatever.

 

Stu, I did my fronts and on My Truck, it was as simple as getting some stud pilot nuts and bolting the stud pilot lockring type wheels on.

The thing I had to watch out for was to make sure that the wheel studs were threaded down towards the hub far enough for the wheel to get tight.

These wheels were off a forklift, I have since changed them again and put some wheels on with round handholes ...they look better.




DISCLAIMER......I AM SIMPLY TELLING WHAT WORKED ON MY TRUCK, AND I AM IN NO WAY SAYING IT WILL WORK ON ANYONE ELSES TRUCK, NOR AM I ENCOURAGING THEM DO DO WHAT I HAVE DONE.
ANY WORK LIKE THIS SHOULD BE DONE BY A TRAINED PROFESSIONAL .

On my rears the studs were to long and bottomed in the inner nut, so I got out my cutoff wheel and shortened one up then discovered that where the studs come through the hub..the unthreaded shoulder part of the stud, is to long, and the inner wheel won't quite get tight.

I need to get different studs, or shorten these up and thread them down farther.
I still haven't done it..Maybe this summer.
I don't think it will be a big deal.

Greg

 

Yeah, the hub piloted studs aren't threaded fully to the base to allow the inner cap nut to seat. Replacement studs should deal with that, but I can see too that there might be some machine work needed on hubs to accommodate the swap. Now I'll butt out of you guys' p'ing contest. Stu

 

Stu it appeared that other other than the issue with the stud, the wheels that I have will work fine.

What part of the hub are you talking about possibly needing machine work?

Greg

 

I have changed 6 & 10 lug hub piloted wheels to stud piloted but you normally can't go the other way.It depends on the center hole diameter

 

I think I've seen diagrams in one of the books that show a recessed stud shank in some applications. Wondered if on a case-by-case basis there might be hub mods needed to pull off the change. Agree that it only works going hub piloted to stud piloted because of the generaly larger center bore of a stud piloted wheel. Stu

 

looks like i opened a can of worms. I have a 1984 f700 it has the dayton wheels. someone must have replaced it with one piece because only one wheel up front has the split ring "widow maker" i have a wobble from the rear. How does one propery install a dayton wheel to get it lines up and all???

 

Proper method to true a dayton wheel:
Make sure hub and wheel surface are clean(wire brush)
Finger tighten nut/clamp assembly evenly in a criss/cross
Put a tall spray can next to tire and spin to check true
As you spin the tire you will see the wobble tighten the nut at the point the tire is closest to can.
once the tire is running true tighten in a criss/cross evenly
LOL this will make sense once you do it for yourself.

 

First, I'll welcome you to the group. Glad to have you. Next, I'll disagree with you on the above statement. This below article in Fleet Owner magazine explains why use of neverseize is a bad idea. Stu

Debunking a myth

 

thanx for the welcome truckdog...this is a great forum.I agree with you...with a caveat.Here is the original...
{The age-old practice of using anti-seize compounds as wheel system lubricants has never been approved or endorsed by a wheel, hub or fastener manufacturer. It hails back to the day of stud-piloted or Budd wheel systems when the inner and outer cap nuts were constantly “freezing” together during the removal process.}
For the dayton style wheel it has been an acceptable practice.But lets be real here who knows about dayton wheels except old farts like us LOL.Love your garage...a lil jealous here.I am going to edit that post tho and remove the never seize part.
MH

 

Stu~
Thanks for posting the link to the article on anti-sieze. I bookmarked it for future reference when I get going again on the project. Still haven't got up to the scrapyard to check on the 22.5 5x8 wheels yet. We keep getting hit with snow, and I'm still waiting for a truck.

 

Since my posting the same topic has come up over on the HAMB. Boy, talk about strong differences of opinion. One guy even linked in two discussion threads from engineering forums debating the subject. Good reading. Here are those threads. Stu

Thoughts on using anti-seize on lug studs - THE H.A.M.B.
Use of Anti Seize on Vehicle Lug Nuts
Mechanical engineering other topics - Use of Anti Seize on vehicle lug nuts