'87 Bronco II 2.9L Needs Help w/HC & NoX
#1
'87 Bronco II 2.9L Needs Help w/HC & NoX
Good Evening, ad let me open with a big Thank You!
I found this forum while researching how "clean" I can get my EGR Valve, and two hours later I'm still reading about the best plugs, oils, and probably a lot more about EDIS than I'll ever need ('87 Bronco II is running a distributor).
So, please forgive me if I miss something, or misquote anything- but I think here's my current rundown.
California Bronco II on it's 4th owner- passed smog as recently as 5/2009 with two fails in its history, as far back as '02.
My HC is 114 (95 max) at 15mph (1508 rpm) (Fail)
My NO is 1241 (1101 max) at same (Fail)
@ 25mph/2392 RPM HC (75 max) is 56 and NO (1151 max) is down to 939
I pressed the tech for his best advice, and he pointed straight to the EGR and said - "take that off, if it's gunky, clean it real good... ...run it on 93 octane for a few days to lower the HC"
So... I figured I'd give it a try- tonight I removed the EGR, used needle nose to actuate the valve until it felt smooth. Shot 1/2 a can of parts cleaner into it and shook it till the gunk stopped coming out, wiped everything down and shot a 1/10th second burst of prolong penetrator onto the base of the valve actuator.
Remounted everything, and noticed a break in the Vac hose plugged into the top of the air filter housing. After scraping the inside of the plug clear I reseated the tube (rigid/britle plastic) and shrink tubed it back into place. Seems to seat ok. Also, replaced the gunky air filter while I was ensuring the housing was clear.
Thought maybe I'd do the plugs, and bought the cheapy single plats at WalMart- pulled the center plug from the left bank (facing engine) since it was easiest to get at, to see how grungy it was. Electrode looks fine, minimal burn/scarring- but plug base was a mess. Replaced that plug only, and will leave the 5 others for tomorrow, or someone's advice.
Dumped a bottle of fuel system/injector cleaner into a full tank of 93 octane (after reading, thinking this step may not only have not helped, but possible hurt me?!).
That's about it so far- I bought this vehicle from a 19 year old who'd worked on it for a few years with his grandfather prior to transferring title, and then he decided it wasn't his style. It's in clean shape inside and fresh paint outside- I'm aware California says SMOG is sellers obligation, and I'm sure I'll be able to call him and ask for my $40-$60 for parts, assuming I can get it to pass and title to transfer. Would hate to just sell it back to him and see it turned in.
I'll listen to any advice you have- if you think the rear wiper blade needs changing to gain 1 pt on the HC, I'll give it a go. Otherwise, thanks for your time reading, and thanks once more for all the info out here.
Slick little forum for slick little trucks (this is my 3rd Bronco II - 84, 86, 87)
-FG
I found this forum while researching how "clean" I can get my EGR Valve, and two hours later I'm still reading about the best plugs, oils, and probably a lot more about EDIS than I'll ever need ('87 Bronco II is running a distributor).
So, please forgive me if I miss something, or misquote anything- but I think here's my current rundown.
California Bronco II on it's 4th owner- passed smog as recently as 5/2009 with two fails in its history, as far back as '02.
My HC is 114 (95 max) at 15mph (1508 rpm) (Fail)
My NO is 1241 (1101 max) at same (Fail)
@ 25mph/2392 RPM HC (75 max) is 56 and NO (1151 max) is down to 939
I pressed the tech for his best advice, and he pointed straight to the EGR and said - "take that off, if it's gunky, clean it real good... ...run it on 93 octane for a few days to lower the HC"
So... I figured I'd give it a try- tonight I removed the EGR, used needle nose to actuate the valve until it felt smooth. Shot 1/2 a can of parts cleaner into it and shook it till the gunk stopped coming out, wiped everything down and shot a 1/10th second burst of prolong penetrator onto the base of the valve actuator.
Remounted everything, and noticed a break in the Vac hose plugged into the top of the air filter housing. After scraping the inside of the plug clear I reseated the tube (rigid/britle plastic) and shrink tubed it back into place. Seems to seat ok. Also, replaced the gunky air filter while I was ensuring the housing was clear.
Thought maybe I'd do the plugs, and bought the cheapy single plats at WalMart- pulled the center plug from the left bank (facing engine) since it was easiest to get at, to see how grungy it was. Electrode looks fine, minimal burn/scarring- but plug base was a mess. Replaced that plug only, and will leave the 5 others for tomorrow, or someone's advice.
Dumped a bottle of fuel system/injector cleaner into a full tank of 93 octane (after reading, thinking this step may not only have not helped, but possible hurt me?!).
That's about it so far- I bought this vehicle from a 19 year old who'd worked on it for a few years with his grandfather prior to transferring title, and then he decided it wasn't his style. It's in clean shape inside and fresh paint outside- I'm aware California says SMOG is sellers obligation, and I'm sure I'll be able to call him and ask for my $40-$60 for parts, assuming I can get it to pass and title to transfer. Would hate to just sell it back to him and see it turned in.
I'll listen to any advice you have- if you think the rear wiper blade needs changing to gain 1 pt on the HC, I'll give it a go. Otherwise, thanks for your time reading, and thanks once more for all the info out here.
Slick little forum for slick little trucks (this is my 3rd Bronco II - 84, 86, 87)
-FG
#2
Quick Note:
"4 Years as a Ford Mechanic" - Walmart checker said "...after all that you have planned, wait till it's cold, climb under, and bang on the catalytic converter with a hammer for 30 seconds- could be clogged"
Before I annoy the neighbors tomorrow morning, anyone have thoughts on that?
(See, I really am willing to try anything)
Thanks,
-FG
"4 Years as a Ford Mechanic" - Walmart checker said "...after all that you have planned, wait till it's cold, climb under, and bang on the catalytic converter with a hammer for 30 seconds- could be clogged"
Before I annoy the neighbors tomorrow morning, anyone have thoughts on that?
(See, I really am willing to try anything)
Thanks,
-FG
#3
#4
#5
#6
EGR FTW!
So I passed!
NOX was down to 886, and HC dropped to 95 (of 95 allowed )
Talk about a close call.
According to the SMOG tech, after explaining everything I'd done, he says the next step would have been an O2 sensor, then a new Catalytic Converter (in his words "New catalyst"). So it looks like I maxed out the value fixes, and made it just under the wire.
He did clarify a few things that seemed foggy based on other things I read in the forums. He said without exception higher octaner will be better. The concern over the higher octane fuel running hotter and increasing NoX, he says, is removed by the fact that you'll have less pre-ignition, or misfiring using the higher octane, leading to overal significantly cleaner emisions.
I realize it's all just for posterity, but I'm still psyched I passed, figured I'd share it with anyone who'd been curious.
Thanks, fl1A, for the tip on the breather (PCV, right?) valve. I didn't do it before the test, but have found the part for $4- so for whatever age/level of efficiency the old one was at, that's a definite worthwhile swap for the cost.
Thanks,
-FG
NOX was down to 886, and HC dropped to 95 (of 95 allowed )
Talk about a close call.
According to the SMOG tech, after explaining everything I'd done, he says the next step would have been an O2 sensor, then a new Catalytic Converter (in his words "New catalyst"). So it looks like I maxed out the value fixes, and made it just under the wire.
He did clarify a few things that seemed foggy based on other things I read in the forums. He said without exception higher octaner will be better. The concern over the higher octane fuel running hotter and increasing NoX, he says, is removed by the fact that you'll have less pre-ignition, or misfiring using the higher octane, leading to overal significantly cleaner emisions.
I realize it's all just for posterity, but I'm still psyched I passed, figured I'd share it with anyone who'd been curious.
Thanks, fl1A, for the tip on the breather (PCV, right?) valve. I didn't do it before the test, but have found the part for $4- so for whatever age/level of efficiency the old one was at, that's a definite worthwhile swap for the cost.
Thanks,
-FG
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