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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #16  
Old 01-18-2011, 04:15 AM
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Welcome aboard and have fun! I agree bag it and tag it on everything,also a nice digital photo before you diassemble is very helpful. I do not have a photographic memory,but a camera does.
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  #17  
Old 01-18-2011, 06:48 AM
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welcome ,congrats on your find....i like the color what color is it??
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  #18  
Old 01-18-2011, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by carnut122 View Post
Maybe a clogged fuel filter? Although it could also be distributor related. Points or electronic ignition?
I have no idea to be honest, that's why I'm on here to learn am much as the human brain can handle. How would i find this out?

also i need to replace the distributor but all i see are HEI one's, and I've read it generall for 1070-1980 engines, is this ture or can i buy and and drop it in?

Once i place the carb and manifold on I will also replace the fuel filter since it's a cheap part and seems to always be an issue.
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  #19  
Old 01-18-2011, 04:23 PM
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I had my original engine die one time because the fuel tank had rust from the inside and clogged the fuel filter. Of you can check the color of the fuel. If it's rust colored or not, that could be an issue.
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2011, 06:44 PM
michaelmilburn michaelmilburn is offline
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Originally Posted by iwanaflattie View Post
welcome ,congrats on your find....i like the color what color is it??

It's red faded about 20 year's lol..i can go along and pick of these thick pieces of it and under that is bare metal. I'm guessing about 2 days to strip it all down
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  #21  
Old 01-18-2011, 07:57 PM
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Notice the bed leaning to the right, any idea's on how to adjust?
Forgive me if I ask a dumb question. How are you certain that it is the bed that give you the indication that it is not level. If it is in fact level could problem cab mounts give the same illusion?
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  #22  
Old 01-18-2011, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelmilburn View Post
I have no idea to be honest, that's why I'm on here to learn am much as the human brain can handle. How would i find this out?

also i need to replace the distributor but all i see are HEI one's, and I've read it generall for 1070-1980 engines, is this ture or can i buy and and drop it in?

Once i place the carb and manifold on I will also replace the fuel filter since it's a cheap part and seems to always be an issue.
I'm not sure of what might work on your motor, but I'd use some sort of electronic ignition and skip the points if it was me. Yep, replace the fule filter so that you can rule it out and chances are it needs to be replace anyway. Like somebody else mentioned, it may be the "bag" filter on the end of your fuel pick-up inside of your tanks that is clogged.
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  #23  
Old 01-21-2011, 12:21 AM
michaelmilburn michaelmilburn is offline
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Originally Posted by dalmeida View Post
Forgive me if I ask a dumb question. How are you certain that it is the bed that give you the indication that it is not level. If it is in fact level could problem cab mounts give the same illusion?

This I do not know. Could be one or the other or even both. It's egging me to find out but I don't want to jump ahead of things
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  #24  
Old 01-21-2011, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by carnut122 View Post
I'm not sure of what might work on your motor, but I'd use some sort of electronic ignition and skip the points if it was me. Yep, replace the fule filter so that you can rule it out and chances are it needs to be replace anyway. Like somebody else mentioned, it may be the "bag" filter on the end of your fuel pick-up inside of your tanks that is clogged.

tomorrow I'll pop off the dist cap and find out what it is. but I want to replace it also so i can rule that out and it's time for it anyway.

I popped off the valve covers and it looked like a mud wrestling tournment in there, I will replace the fuel line from the pump and pop in a new filter.


what's a good internal engine cleaner to remove build up? I like slick 50
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  #25  
Old 01-21-2011, 01:37 AM
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It's red faded about 20 year's lol..i can go along and pick of these thick pieces of it and under that is bare metal. I'm guessing about 2 days to strip it all down
Such a nice thought, just hope it doesnt end up like 99% of them and take weeks to strip down to bare metal...
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  #26  
Old 01-21-2011, 10:04 PM
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[quote=michaelmilburn;9855422]tomorrow I'll pop off the dist cap and find out what it is. but I want to replace it also so i can rule that out and it's time for it anyway.

I popped off the valve covers and it looked like a mud wrestling tournment in there, I will replace the fuel line from the pump and pop in a new filter.


what's a good internal engine cleaner to remove build up? I like slick 50[/quote

If you pull the distributor, mark exactly where the rotor is pointing at and replace it with the rotor pointing as close as possible to that mark. Also, ensure the wire located at that mark is to the same cylinder as originally pulled. Do not turn over the engine at all while the distributor is out. If you do this, the timing should be close enough to start the engine assuming everything else is functional. Tthen you can set the timing from there. Slick 50 is supposed to ake your engine last longer, but most would say it's Snake oil. I used it once in two 1994 GM vehicles. The one ran great for 233,000 miles until I traded it in. the other one has 110,000 on it without any issues. Of course they may have also done all of this without the Slick 50. I once used Rislone, and some people use SeaFoam engine treatment. Neither are motor oil, and both will thin your oil and I suspect provide less wear protection. If you were to use either, I would recommend somewhere of in the neighborhood of 100 miles and then do a fileter and oil change. Motor oil contains detergents and changing it regularly should help prevent sludge build-up. Of course if your engine is severely worn, if you take short trips and if extend oil change intervals, the sludge may be unavoidable.
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  #27  
Old 01-21-2011, 10:10 PM
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Such a nice thought, just hope it doesnt end up like 99% of them and take weeks to strip down to bare metal...

FUNNY! but it probably will, it's pretty bad but will look better one day
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  #28  
Old 01-21-2011, 10:13 PM
michaelmilburn michaelmilburn is offline
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I have another thread labeled " my setup" I'll post pic's of what I did today
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  #29  
Old 01-21-2011, 11:34 PM
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FUNNY! but it probably will, it's pretty bad but will look better one day
Of course it will, isn't that why we do this stuff...
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  #30  
Old 01-21-2011, 11:50 PM
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Of course it is!
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:50 PM
 
 
 
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